BobVZ

There are two things you can do to the stock to hide this error that I can think of at this time. 1. Use a wood filler (as others have suggested) to fill this area, then grain and stain it to blend with the rest of the wood. I like using the Elmers brand of acrylic fillers because they dry fast and can be tinted with acrylic artists colors. For your stock the dark walnut might be a good choice(available at most home improvement centers and hardware). After it is dry, use an Exacto blade to cut shallow grain lines that mimic the natural wood. You can practice on some scrap to get a feel for it. Apply some finish to the stock and patch, then when that's dry, color the repair with tinted lacquer to blend. Then apply the final coats of finish. 2. By the look of your photos there is a fair amount of wood above the metal that will need to be sanded down. I have been successful closing some gaps by using a punch to peen down(compress) the wood, causing it to expand into the gap. Just be careful not to peen it below the metal(of course you could file down the metal to compensate). Once you sand down, you won't be able to detect the repair. Bob

I like the idea too. Since '93's don't have the enlarged cocking cam area at the rear of the bolt to divert gas, this adds a layer of protection. One gas path that is often over-looked in '93's is the bottom of the bolt raceway. The M93 employs a square bottomed boltface that slides in a corresponding channel. When the bolt is locked, the square part of the bolt rotates to the left lug raceway, opening the square corners of this channel all the way back to the shooters face. If some small triangular nibs could be left on the bottom of the gas ring it would help block this path as well. These nibs, however, might interfere with proper function when closing the bolt if not lined-up properly.

donmarkey, Very nice machine work! Your skills are to be admired. If I may be so bold, I would like to make an observation and suggestion. I couldn't help but notice when the floorplate is in the latched position, it is essentially in the dismount position for the standard release. This places the rear (and front) "shoulder" of the floorplate out of alignment with the contours of the mag well opening. I envision this could be compensated for by adding a bead of weld on the rear edge of the floorplate to lengthen it so it would engage the bow latch when in the standard closed position( I guess the hinge would have to be adjusted too). In lieu of that, the front of the trigger guard bow could be built up with weld prior to machining to match the Argy bow. This would move the latch closer to the floorplate and allow you to use it as-is, thus keeping everything in alignment. Question: On a bow with the parade sling attachment hole, could that hole be utilized for a hinge pin or is it too big and too far up?

swamprat, I feel for you brother. I'm at home now recuperating from a radical prostatectomy on Dec. 28th. I didn't serve in Vietnam, but did work with 2,4D and 2,4,5T in the Agchem business years ago. These were components of Agent Orange. My PSA played rollercoaster for 6 years till it started climbing steady last April. I went in for a biopsy in October and it came back cancer. My urologist said it has to do with a combination of heredity(mothers side), testosterone levels and possible exposure to cattle growth hormones thru eating red meat. There are 10 degrees of prostate cancer(Gleason Scale) that relate to how abnormal and aggressive it is with 10 being worst. Mine was a 6. That is about an average type and fairly slow growing. One thing is for sure, if you get it diagnosed early and take care of it there is a high likelyhood of cure. So don't shy away from the biopsy. Its not that bad. If you can tolerate a digital rectal exam you can tolerate a biopsy. I'm 51 years old which is very young to get it but cases are being reported as early as 42! Americans have the highest incidence in the world - over 100 times higher than asians. There are several treatment methods but the most effective is surgery. The other methods involve hormones or radiation, either from an external source(beam radiation) or implantable pellets("seeds"). The main side effect is sexual dysfunction from both methods - up to 50% and a little urinary incontinence(dribbling). Modern nerve-sparing prostatectomies however are improving those odds. I'm about 4 1/2 weeks out of surgery and am almost back to normal except for the sexual issues, but thats improving. It can take up to 14 mos to regain full function so you have to be patient. The way I look at it is that it beats the alternative! Good luck, Bob

The uniformity of resistance with all cartridges and the fact that you re-barreled a Yugo(safety breech) lead me to guess that the resistance you are feeling may be coming from the front of the extractor contacting the barrel face. Try removing the extractor and work the bolt and compare to working the bolt with the extractor. Then repeat, chambering a round. Note any differences. If thats not it, observe around the bolt locking lugs for any heavy burnishing caused by the bolt body rubbing against the top or bottom of the receiver cutouts when the bolt is turned into battery. I had an Argy once that did this the last few degrees of bolt rotation. I had to use a round stone to widen the receiver opening in front of the lower locking lug to free the bolt. Finally, polish a cartridge and cycle it in the chamber several times and note where the contact ring is on the case shoulder. This will give you an idea of where the contact is and what effect deepening the chamber will have. As you know, contact should be near the shoulder and not up at the neck. You might have a reamer that is a little off spec. If none of those are the culprit then we come back to your delima of whether to deepen it or not. Personally, if its as you describe, I would leave it alone but its hard to see what harm one light turn of the finish reamer would do. I guess if you feel comfortable with your "touch" then go for it.

kenak2, You are correct. I got my degrees flip-flopped. Thanks for the clarification. Bob

I read once that the reason has to do with the loose fit remark in the preceeding quote. There is such a variance between different manufacturers that the looser fit allows aftermarket barrels to be attached to most actions without trouble. If the angle were 60 degrees the fit would be too tight. The other reason is(I believe) that in the US, 55 degrees is the standard for thread cutting bits. Now if I was having a blank turned, I think I would have the receiver threads measured and duplicated on the blank for a snug fit.

Looking at "Bolt Action Rifles" by de Haas, The Dakota "Traveler" employs a split receiver ring with integral clamping block on the underside. Once you slide the barrel in you tighten the sleeve around it to lock receiver and barrel together. The rest is how roscoedoh described. The same article claims the Germans developed a system of interrupted threads for the Mauser that also used some sort of clamping sleeve on the receiver so the wear issue could be addressed. In effect you can negate the wear issue by having a "loose fit" when you engage the threads, then clamp the receiver ring around the barrel mating them tightly together. Maybe someone else has some photos of the German system that you could employ.

When these appeared on the market over a dozen years ago, they were advertised as being FN manufacture for the 1922 Brazilian carbine. I bought one back then and used it to build a sweet carbine with a 1909 Argy action. The late gun writer Finn Aagard wrote an article shortly before his death about a Mannlicher carbine he re-barelled with one. He was quite pleased with it. The full length stock tends to disguise the "steps" and make it more eye appealing. Many of these barrels have some pitting on the outside due to contact with the storage spacers in the crates they were packed in, so buyer beware. If you get a good one its hard to go wrong for the money. Bob

Sounds like a M95. Richards Microfit has their Old Classic #102 stock in Mannlicher length 99% inlet for $100 in walnut. If you are on a budget you might be able to fit it into a M93 long rifle Turk Mauser stock and re-work it into a Mannlicher. You can pick these up off E-bay or off the Trader/For Sale/WTB sections of C&R Forums. Replacement sporter barrels and triggers can be had from Brownells, Numrich and many other sources. Caliber choices will be limited to 7x57, .257 Roberts, .300 Savage or 6.5x55 Swede.

Looks like you've got the technique down - that is playing the flame around in a random way to get a mottled effect. My recommendation based on the photo would be to remove all rust and pits to a smooth surface and then apply the torch. The rougher the surface the less pronounced the color will be.

I believe that the finish is a flame coloring and not a true color case. My failing memory seems to tell me they coated the polished receiver with some sort of solution and then used an oxacetylene small tip to selectively heat the receiver and temper color the metal. If you polish the receiver and use a small torch tip I don't see why you couldn't create some interesting colors-even without a solution. You could also "grey" the receiver with an acid pickle(white vinegar works well) and that would create a nice contrast, alot like some over/unders you see. You could seal it with a thin coat of satin polyurethane(or satin clear Duracoat) to resist rust.

The downside that has been discussed in other threads (that I can't recall right now) is that the rust blueing solution will creep into the barrel/receiver joint and corrode that area. On a M700 you are talking about two joints because the recoil lug is like a washer sandwiched between the barrel shoulder and the receiver. But if there is a good crush fit in this area it is unlikely this would happen. I have regularly rust-blued military barreled receivers by sealing this joint with lacquer or ladies nail polish. Once the lacquer dries, just use a rag dampened w/lacquer thinner to wipe the excess away from around the joint you are sealing. Then apply the rusting solution and proceed. With caustic blueing there isn't a problem since the salts themselves dont cause rust and are rinsed away as part of the process. Bob

How about white zinc oxide cream from the pharmacy? You could also make a gold product by mixing bronze oil paint with vasoline.

Thats not a sleeve under the rear sight, its part of the barrel. The other guns you mentioned lack this feature and use a smaller diameter rear sight base.

riceone, The 8x56 uses a .329 bullet as opposed to the .323 stnd 8mm. Otherwise I would have stayed with it as you suggested. Krag brass is still available from several sources. The Krag rim is only 3-4 thou smaller than the Hungarian round. I wonder if the feed lips on the clip could be bent in to hold the .30-30? But then the extractor problem would still be an issue wouldn't it. Lee makes a .329 mold, so I may have to just shoot cast bullets as-is. Sure would be a lot less expensive and probably adequate at 100 yds.

Just sitting around in balmy SC (60 F in Dec!) thinking of a good winter project. I'm browsing through Century's latest catalog and eyeing the M95 carbines. My mind is contemplating a a re-barrel to the aforementioned calibers to make a nice little deep-woods deer rifle for 50-100 yd shots. I want to use .30 cal because of the abundance of bullet weights and the standard calibers for ease of finding components. The Krag rim is real close to the 8x56 but a little narrow in the body. The .30-30 is short on both counts, but I think it can work. Working pressures seem to be acceptable for both. I plan on using the issue stock and adding a Schnabel forend tip a few inches shy of the muzzle ala Rem Nylon 66 and a red dot scope. Anybody have any experience in this realm (ie. re-barrel)? My major concerns are if the en-bloc clip will work and the mag is long enough to accomodate the Krag round. I don't have one accessible to make any measurements. Maybe I'll have to create a short-necked Krag wildcat! Bob

I don't believe the .338-06 generates any more pressure than the '06 or 8x57 which this action is well suited to. Certainly if your brother intends to roll hot handloads it might be an added measure of insurance. Even with the enclosed feature, gas from a casehead rupture will still travel out the boltface undercut and the extractor relief channel. It does give some added protection though for ruptures at 12 or 6 o'clock. I don't hear of too many people doing it. Ruger uses the old '93 style breeching in the M77 chambered in some hot numbers. I've heard of no problems there. The best protection against casehead separations is to have a tight chamber with proper headspace combined with sanely loaded quality brass. I had one done several years ago and it cost me an extra $75 on the re-barrel.

What kind of condition is the 8mm barrel in? Sierra makes a new 200 grain HPBT bullet for target work. There is also a 220 grain SPBT bullet for hunting. If you've got a good barrel, you might shorten it to say, 24-26 inches, and give that a try first before expending a bunch of cash. The 8x57 can be very accurate. Those heavy BT bullets would give you great retained velocities at long range. It could certainly be loaded to exceed the capability of the .308 Win, which is generally considered a good long-range target round. Bob

That is lead based solder. What you are left with is a tinned surface. All you need to do is remove it with emory cloth, then re-polish and blue. Just tear off a strip and use a shoe shine motion. Bob

milsurpcollector, Before condemning your barrel, make sure other variables are accounted for-such as bedding. This is especially true if you have a RC mismatch gun. The action should be in even contact with the stock bottom inletting and not "spring" when you tighten the guard screws. The barrel should not bind in any way in the barrel channel. With the action tightened in the stock, you should be able to lift the muzzle with around 5 lbs of force clear of the barrel channel and when released, should "flop" back into the channel without the wood pressing against it. The handguard retainer ring bottom on the rear sight should clear the stock by at least 1mm. Finally, the magazine box should not contact the receiver bottom when fully tightened, but come within a few thousanths or .1 mm. The handguard should not touch the barrel at all, even under the lower band. Also, the barrel should not bind in the upper band. Spot and scrape/file any bind points. Try shooting without the handguard and upper band to see if this is a problem. If the barrel has sharp bright rifling, in-spec bore, a good crown and is not bent it should shoot pretty good. Check your rear sight to make sure it is not loose and moving around under recoil too. I have seen plenty of excellent condition K-98 takeoff barrels for around $80 recently. I bought one a dozen years ago for $15 from a parts house that went under. It shoots 1 in groups all day with Rem 185 grain bullets and 46 grains of IMR 3031. I wish I had bought a dozen now! The Nazis made pretty good barrels. I believe they were cut rifled and machine lapped. Bob

Kyle, With rust blueing, everything but the springs can be blued(rust blueing can alter the springs surface and subject it to cracking). If its a Mauser, I personally like the barrel, receiver and bottom metal rust blued, with the bolt and follower in-the-white. I also like the bolt stop and spring nitre blued. Bob

Kyle, Here's a link http://www.sporterizing.com/index.php?showtopic=144 to some archival info from this forum on rust bluing saved by Flaco. My formula is posted about halfway through. Manureman is right about reading everything you can before starting. Also, practice on some old barrels or other parts before attempting it for real. You need to get a feel for how long to rust the parts and what it should look like before and after boiling/steaming. The finished product is as good as anything I have seen - satin blue/black. It all depends on metal prep and technique. Bob

Kyle, Slow rust blue is by far the most durable finish you can achieve with limited resources. I have blued several rifles with nothing more than the bluing solution, steel wool and an old 4 qt pot with a lid modified with steam vents. I boiled the small parts between passes in the pot and steamed the barrel using the vents. I made the bluing solution myself from a formula in Angiers book. My total cost was $36 for the chemicals and steel wool and that did three rifles with enough bluing solution left to do 100 more! Bob

What a classic looking rifle! Outstanding work. I'm curious about two things: 1. Is that a filled, satin poly finish or multiple oil coats? 2. Did you turn the bolt handle yourself? I've never seen a delicate handle like that. I especially like the way you contoured it from the bolt root to the grasping ball. It emulates the pear shape of the knob in reverse. Similar to early BRNO commercial style but with less pronounced departure from bolt root to handle. Bob