BobVZ

Colombian 7x57 barrels were re-bored and chambered to .30-06 back in the fifties. This cartridge is substantially longer than the 7x57. So unless you shaved off more than 6 mm of the breech end you should be ok. My guess is we are only talking about a ten thou or so.

I have rifles with both the Buehler and the Timney safeties. The Buehler locks the bolt while the Timney engages the intermediate position. The only problem I've had with the Buhler is the little hex screw came loose once. Otherwise both safeties have functioned flawlessly.

How about using the Savage system? You could turn the greater diameter of the barrel ahead or the receiver threads to 1.055 and thread 20 V TPI. Then you could use a standard Savage barrel nut to tighten things down. Barrels could then be easily switched using the nut wrench and a headspace gauge.

That's one heck of a first effort! I like the way you were wise enough to practice the threading before doing it for real. You have a great looking, accurate rifle.

The electric fry pots are usually made from aluminum that has been coated with a baked-on, non-stick coating(paint). Blueing salts commonly contain sodium hydroxide(lye) which vigorously attacks aluminum and will erode even baked-on finishes. I would be concerned the solution would attack the finish and make its way to the base metal. A cheap cast iron pot on a hotplate would work fine and hold up to the salts.

http://www.e-gunparts.com/DisplayAd.asp?ch...hrSuperSKU=&MC= I spied this on the Numrich site. Might be an economical option for you guys that like to re-thread and chamber for Mausers. Bob

If you have a local auto-body shop, check to see if they have a bead blaster. One in my town does and he lets me use it free of charge. That would clean out all of those nooks and cranny's. A rust blue would look awesome.

I wonder if coyote means he would like a .220 Swift equivalent that would cycle well in a Mauser? I know that several companies make the 5.6x57 dies as well as a .22/6mm Rem(Redding). I don't know if they are the same dimensionally since the 6mm Rem is derived from the 7x57 as well. The .22/6mm sounds like a simple FLR job and the round would be a perfect fit if he's using a Mauser action. Brass is certainly plentiful. If he hasn't bought the barrel blank yet I'd go with Z's rec on the 6mm Rem.

I've read posts on other forums of WSM conversions, but I think these were single shots. Single line feeding is the most reliable method. Remington's M710 has a mag similar to a double stack pistol mag in that the double stack feeds into single stack and is held there by feed lips in the mag. Each round is lined up w/the bore. Perhaps a Rem mag could be fitted to a synthetic MN stock? I suspect the problem area would be the feed interupter function and the fact that the MN right bolt lug passes over/thru the mag opening. It would be interesting to fiddle with.

I found this listing for small ring 7x57 but haven't checked it out. See item 271 3053A under Mausers. http://www.ponderosaparts.com/templates/te...?Sel=B&Pkg=3009 Bob

680guy, The firing pins on M93's & 95's do actually protrude slightly from the boltface* in the unlocked position, but not enough to affect feeding. It doesn't slam fire because as you close the bolt it cocks and retracts the firing pin. M96 Swedes do retract the firing pin from the boltface because they partially cock on opening. If your firing pin protrudes excessively, the pin is either too long or the cocking piece allows the pin to travel too far forward. Since your bolt shows peening in the cocking cam notch, I am suspicious that a previous owner may have ground back the face of the cocking piece, perhaps in an effort to fit a safety, and this is causing the sear to impact the notch. Forward motion of the firing pin is halted by the impact of the cocking piece face with the interior mating surface of the bolt shroud. The sear projection should not contact the bolt. You may need to inspect and replace the cocking piece if this is so. Bob * "Bolt Action Rifles", 4th Ed., p.133. F. de Haas

680guy, Unless your '93 was converted to cock-on-opening the firing pin should be exposed when you open the bolt. My 1916 carbine has off-center primer strikes as well. I discovered two reasons - improperly machined boltface and barrel liner slightly off-center. I would check the action bedding to make sure action is not being sprung when tightened. Also, try a different scope. It is possible the reticle may have shot loose. Bob

youngtrout, are these pics before or after you lapped the lugs? if its after, you may have gone a little too far. i would be concerned that you've gone past the case hardening. if its before, it looks like heavy wear with the same result. if it was setback from pounding, there should be a small ridge of metal on the other side of the lug abuttment as well. this can often be felt when unlocking the bolt as a bump, with the bolt actually moving slightly forward. in any event, i think if the lug seats are level and smooth you could have the receiver re-carburized and restore function. you may want to have the bolt re-hardened too.

My FN .30-06 feeds 7x57 fine, but the mag box is a little long. A small spacer might tighten things up a bit but is probably not necessary. I had a 7x57 built on a Yugo M24 intermediate action(orig 8x57) some years ago and it feeds 7x57 flawlessly. I presume the 6.5x57 would feed just as well. The Yugo action is perfect for this length cartridge.

dang fine work Z!

I've been toying with an idea for several years , but have never acted on it. I call it a " Switch Action" rifle. This rifle would be based on 3 identical Mauser pattern actions barrelled in 3 calibers, using a common bolt, stock, bottom metal and scope. One would only need to remove the two action screws to remove one barreled action and exchange for another. This would eliminate the need for special tools. If I were to build it I think I would choose 3, 24/47 actions and barrel with 6mm Rem., 7x57 and 8x57. These calibers would cover any North American hunting situation one is likely to encounter. My experience has been that 8x57 actions will function well with 7x57 parent cases ok, but the converse is not necessarily true. I would spend my money on one premium synthetic stock and steel bed each action to the stock rather than the stock to the action. This would be particularly important in the recoil lug abuttment. Also, only one bolt and bottom metal unit need be customized, further reducing cost. Each action would have it's own adjustable trigger with safety. Each receiver would need to be contoured to near matching dimensions to allow consistent scope placement between receivers. CNC machining would come in handy here. Finally, I would select a high quality variable power scope to cover the range of hunting situations with each caliber - a compromise of course. A sturdy quick release mount would need to be added to compliment the scope. Careful sighting and recording of scope settings would allow the shooter to re-adjust the scope between switches to get close to zero. Add a custom built aluminum case as previously suggested and you have a formidable compact, travel arsenal.

bapayton, If you are just chasing the threads, you might be be able to make a chaser out of an old action screw with good threads. I read once where you can cut the flutes with a dremel stone, and then harden the screw by quenching in water or by using Kasenit.

Z1R posted comments in recent weeks that the .220 Swift is notoriously a poor feeding round, such that most Mauser sporters he has seen are single shots. However, it must be possible to build a system to feed this round since both Mausers and other staggered magazine bolt rifles have been built to handle rimmed cartridges. Since reading your post earlier today, I have spent some time researching these weapons. There seems to be two basic methods used to feed rimmed rounds in the Mauser system rifles. 1. Siamese Mauser (8x52 R) This rifle uses a staggered, slanted box magazine arrangement sized to fit the cartridge length to prevent cartridges from sliding forward in recoil. The extractor is narrowed at the top and bottom so the rim can slip under it on loading and eject easier. The M48 mag well could be blocked to adjust it to the OAL of your cartridges, but it would still be too wide to reliably control the orientation of the smaller Swift round. I rejected this arrangement as an option. 2. P-14 Enfield (.303 British) The P-14 uses a straight, box magazine(like the M48) with angled, rounded vertical interior ridges at the rear (in front of the cartridge rim) and in the middle (at the cartridge shoulder). The top of the ridges are tapered and come short of the feed rails so the top round will slide over them, but retain the rounds underneath. The rear ridges retain the rims and prevent the cartridge from sliding forward and the middle ridges keep the rounds pointed forward in the magazine. The ridge angle helps rims to slide backwards to prevent jams. The follower has a forward portion to assist in feeding the last round. The Enfield extractor is also modified by narrowing the extractor hook as in the Siamese. Since this system is applicable to Mausers as well, I selected it to build a theoretical feeding system. Proposal If I were to attempt to construct a reliable Swift feeding system for a M48 Mauser, here is what I believe I would do: 1. Acquire a magazine box and follower for a 1914 Enfield. 2. Remove the sides of the magazine box and fit them to the interior of the Mauser box. These could be soft soldered or epoxied in. Since the Mauser box is sized for the .473 rims of the Mauser and Swift rounds, a portion of the inserts behind the rear ridges might have to be removed so the rims would not be constrained. However, I think I would test it before removing the metal. Make sure the distance from the rear of the mag box and the rear rib is the same as the Enfield to allow room for the case rims. 3. Fit and replace the Mauser follower with the Enfield follower. 4. Modify the Mauser extractor to mirror the Enfield. The .303 British round is nearly identical to the Swift in overall length and shoulder dimensions with the Swift only about 16 thou smaller in the head, so the spacing of the guide ribs in the mag should be right. I tried some .303 rounds in my 8x57 Mauser and the feed lips seem to be adequate to retain them. With the modified extractor and the guide ribs installed, I can't think of any reason why it wouldn't feed .220 Swift cases. Bob

Sorry, No photos as this is only theory at present. I do have rough drawings. PM me your E-mail/fax and I'll scan and send. In this drawing I have updated the design by using the upper arm as designed and cutting a slot in the receiver to allow it to block the cocking cam, thus locking the bolt and blocking the trigger at the same time. In the original design, the upper arm was bent to the left side at a 90 degree angle so that it jammed the underside of the sear/spring. I hope to acquire some gunsmith special actions to practice on. Bob

I have toyed with the idea and made a few notes and drawings should I get the urge to try it. Here is what I think I'd do: 1. Acquire a 91/30 donor rifle. These have the inner receiver ring the M44's lack and the long barrel eliminates the step problem. 2. Cut the bolt handle off flush with the midrib and weld on a 1917/14 Enfield bolt handle(a Rem 700 would work too). Reduce the angle of the bends in the dogleg to improve the lines and bring the grasping ball even further back. This should bring the ball even with the bottom of the stock at the front of the guard bow. 3. Improve the looks of the trigger guard by removing the finger rest from the rear of the guard, then blend, thin and shape the bow to pleasing lines. Next, remove the unsightly rivet in through the magazine and replace with a tight-fitting pin, dressed flush. 4. Taper the tip of the trigger to pleasing lines, eliminating the boxy appearance. 5. Remove the rear sight. Cut and crown barrel to 22 inches. 6. Fashion a sheet steel safety( similar to a Rem 700) that saddles around the trigger pin stud and hinges on an elongated trigger pin secured w/C-clips. It would block the rearward travel of the trigger and the trigger spring. 7. Install a Williams Side Mount Over Center scope mount. 8. Polish and blue all metal, even the bolt. This will make the cocking piece and bolt less massive in appearance. 9. Drop metal into a Richards stock of my choosing. 10. Finish stock and reassemble. 11. Have and adult beverage and two Motrin!

I think I would still shy away from the oak. When you go to shaping the stock it will leave long open pores. Also 4 different types of woods won't look right - stick to two contrasting woods like birch and walnut or cherry and birch. Consider maple and beech too. You can also do 4 layer laminates of a single wood and alternate the growth rings for a super stable stock with some interesting grain patterns. I've seen a triple layer stock thats sort of a maple sandwich with black walnut for the "bread". This puts hard maple right behind the recoil lug and around the action screw holes. Looks really cool in a thumbhole sporter. Bob

I've never done it, but my stockwood book says its just too heavy, too open grain and prone to splintering. Think about it - if were good for gunstocks, you can bet it would have been used extensively by the military. Now something that intrigues me is hickory. Specifically the heartwood. I was walking thru the local home center recently and spied some cabinets made from hickory. Most of it was sapwood, but occasionally you would get these nice streaks of reddish-brown heartwood that closely resemble walnut. The grain was about halfway between walnut and oak. It had some nice figure to it. I'd love to get a blank with some stumpwood in it to send to Richards.

http://www.e-gunparts.com/DisplayAd.asp?ch...hrSuperSKU=&MC= For those of you who like to do Turk projects, here's a cheap .30-06 barrel you could alter to make a .30-06 or .308. Bob

You can use the old shadow line method to check for straightness. Clean the barrel and lightly oil so that it reflects light like a mirror. Set the barrel up on sandbags or V-blocks about 6-10 feet away from a light-colored interior wall in your home or shop. A light, flat latex painted wall is ideal. Take a yardstick and paint it black. Hang it on the wall. Sight thru the bore and center the yardstick. Move your head up and down till you see the shadow line cast by the yardstick from muzzle to breech. If the shadow line is straight, that means your barrel is straight. If it is bent or worse broken, you have a bent barrel. Sometimes if it just a slight bend it may shoot ok. The bend is at the spot where the line is bent. Rotate the barrel 90 degrees and check till you go thru 360 degrees.