BobVZ

On Mausers with ground receiver rings(seems like most nowadays) I have successfully used steel-filled epoxy to mold custom shims. I first mount the rear base and use a caliper (with the bottom jaw against the flat on the receiver bottom and the upper jaw on the flat of the scope base top) to check for level. You need to do this for both axes. Record the measurement for use in leveling the front base. If its not level, shim with small rings of electricians tape punched out with hole punches. Place these on the bottom of the base around the screw holes. Once satisfied, coat the receiver, screws, screw holes and base screwholes w/release agent (wax). Butter the base with epoxy and screw on. Check for level again and let it set up. While the epoxy is still soft and pliable, take the edge of a sharpened credit card and cut off the squeeze-out from around the edges of the base. Its alot easier to do this now than later for obvious reasons. Next, mount the front base and level it using the previous technique, but don't use epoxy yet. Once its level using the tape shims, compare the measurement you recorded earlier. It should be less since the receiver has been ground. Determine how many tape shims you need to bring it up level. Shoot for a level a few thousandths higher than the rear. Apply the shims. Finally, butter the front base and screw on barely snug. Using your calipers to check for level, crank down the screws till you hit that magic measurement. Flip the action upsidedown and place tops of bases on a flat surface. If everything is level, it should be perfectly flat with no rocking. Trim the excess as before. After it is set, paint the edge of the epoxy with black paint to hide it and your done! I like this method because it compensates for irregularities in the metal and assures a perfect fit.

z1r, A method outlined by R.A. Boone in the 1994 edition of Handloaders Digest, describes a procedure for fireforming 338-06 Ackley Improved from .30-06. This involved expanding the casenecks one caliber higher (as BradD suggested). Then setting the shoulder back just enough to chamber with the FL die. This eliminated case-stretch and headspace problems according to the author. Headspacing will be at the point of the case-neck and shoulder junction. You could accomplish the same thing by expanding to .375 and pushing the neck back with the 9x57 FL die untill you can just close the bolt. Bob

If the mag well is .30-06 length, as Z1R pointed out, I'm inclined to agree that the .280 Rem would be a great choice. It's a fast, flat shooting round thats readily available. For that matter, your favorite(.270 Win) has the same attributes and is even more available due to its popularity.

Z1R, I had a similar chamber problem with a R. FAMAGE .30-06 Columbian Mauser, re-chambered and bored from 7x57. At low pressures the primers were backed out and there was noticable casehead swelling. The fireformed swelled area measured .475. Compounding the problem was the fact that all three brands of brass I was using (Rem, Win and Federal) had .465 caseheads rather than the .470 indicated in the literature. My American made 7x57 and 8x57 brass also have .465 heads. Ten thou is a lot of expansion and FL resizing accelerated casehead seps. I eventually wound up using a LEE handloader to necksize only. I've checked some European made brass and it runs .470.

If we are talking a round firing pin, here's what I do. You can file or grind the tip flat to within a few thousandths of the correct length. Then, chuck the rear of the pin in a hand drill. Attach some 220 grit silicon carbide paper to a wood block or other hard, flat surface. Wet the thumb and forefinger of the hand opposite your drill hand with oil. Grip the middle of the pin with these fingers and start up the drill. Eyeball a 45 degree angle and press the tip of the spinning firing pin to the paper. Grind a bevel to about 50% of the tip diameter. Now you have a small truncated cone tip. To round it, wrap your 220 grit paper around a rubber sanding block(secured in a vise) and press the spinning tip directly into it. Do this in several spots till the tip is nice and rounded. The soft rubber backing allows the tip to be rounded. Check protrusion and correct by polishing more. Check often so you don't shorten it too much. Finnish by spinning the tip on 400 then 600 grit to polish. You should have a near perfect semi-hemispherical tip. You may want to first practice with a nail to get the feel for it.

If you put the '93 barrel on a Turk 98, I would stick with the 7x57. It can be handloaded to better than 7mm-08 and near .280 Rem. in this action(granted you have a 1 in 10 twist barrel). The '93's may indeed have a 1 in 10 twist vs the 1 in 8.5 twist of the later '98 barrels. As roscodoh pointed out, my experience mirrored that of earlier authors on the troubles encountered with pushing light bullets thru fast rifling at high velocities. I had to settle on 2,600 fps with a 139 gr bullet to get best accuracy(.75 in.) in my 19.5 inch carbine with 1 in 8.5 twist. Additionally, from a function standpoint, this would require no modifications to the magazine. Bob

How about the tried and true 8x60 JS? The old RWS load with a 187 grain bullet manages 2,810 fps and 3275 fpe at the muzzle with a 2.3", 200 yd. midrange trajectory.* That should be at least a reliable 300 yd. Elk gun. Since it was designed for the standard M98 action it should require no mods. * Cartridges of the World, 6th ed.

If you turn that safety to the 12 o'clock position it will perform the same function - as it was designed to. The coin trick works best(as pointed out) on mechanisms w/o the flag safety - ie. Remingtons and 1917 Enfields.

horsefly, If the mounts are on tight and there is no need to remove them(ie. blueing or leveling) then I would leave them be. If you need to remove them, try deepening the boogered slot with a burr in a dremel tool. Then heat the proper bit with a propane torch (just a few seconds) and apply the bit to the screw head to transfer the heat(30 sec). This will soften the Loctite. Then try to remove. I would hesitate to use the impact driver because it might shear off the screw head. If you do, make sure the screw is good and hot and use penetrating oil. Most import stores carry 3/8 and 1/2 inch drive impact drivers for around $6-$9. They also sell a set of adapters that will convert the driver to 1/4 inch. You can then insert a 1/4 inch socket on the end and use 1/4 inch gunsmith screwdriver bits. Use light taps. Bob

I have a 1916 Spanish short rifle in 7x57 that has a either a soldered in or shrink- fit/pressed in barrel liner. This practice is described in Olsens Mauser book. Close examination under magnification reveals it to be a rather thin-walled(1mm) tube that lines the barrel from breech to muzzle. There is no solder line visible, so I am leaning to the pressed or shrink-fit theory. I can only theorize that the barrel and chamber were overbored by 1mm and this insert prepared and pressed in the heated barrel. Provided this technology could be resurrected, might this be an option for some of these worn out barrels?I wonder what the cost would be compared to a re-barrel or re-bore?

in addition to your initials, you should stamp the chambering on the left side of the barrel just above the woodline, preferably between the chamber section and the forend. i have seen it done on the chamber and it looks good there too.

Don't know if Richards will mill for the military channel. Most likely they could mill out the chamber area and leave the channel so you can custom fit it - but I may be wrong. They need to know that these were early style barrels( used a small diameter rear sight base), plus the distance between steps. I believe someone posted long ago that these barrels were made by FN as replacements for the M1922 Carbine/Brazil. I bought one from RSI 11 years ago and built a sporter using a scrubbed 1909 Argy receiver. It is sweet handling and very accurate. Likes 154 grain bullets.

I was able to overcome the discoloration by painting the joint with some nail polish(any lacquer would do) and wiping off the excess with acetone. After bluing, rinse the joint with acetone to remove the nail polish. I also use a barrel steamer which tends to minimize oil leakage vs boiling.

Horsefly, If you ever want to make a barrel band swivel for a Mauser 98 military barrel(98K,GEW 98, '09, '08, etc.), a 1909 Argy Carbine front sight base makes a dandy one. Just reshape the part with the dovetail and install the base upside down on the barrel to the second barrel step. Then install a sling loop from another band or base. The added benefit is that it helps disguise the barrel step.