montea6b

Nor did this one. How's the hidden metal look on those that have them? I can tolerate some if it doesn't show, but just knowing it's there would bother me. Thanks for the heads up Jerry, I'll have to pick up a copy.

Very unique look, and well executed!

Thanks guys, I thought it was pretty high. And I've heard the concerns about pitting below the wood line in the South American rifles. I'm just keeping my out for a collector model to leave original. I'd love an unissued Persian, but they are pretty spendy.

Saw one at a show today with all matching numbers in original, and pretty good, condition. Sharp crest, well worn blueing, but no visible rusting. Stock was in good shape, and even had some nice tiger striping in the butt. A couple of gouges, but you'd expect these. He wanted $450 for it, and wouldn't budge. Any thoughts from the peanut gallery?

Mmmmm, venison!

Thanks for piping in Jason! I bought this book on your recommendation and remembered this part, but I couldn't remember the name of the book. I think it's still buried in a box somewhere from our move this spring. If I weren't leaving tomorrow for a week I'd try to dig it out for you 724wd. It's got a good section on converting a military guard to hinged.

You've got my attention! Looking forward to updates.

Jason, hmm... that's a very interesting suggestion that I hadn't even considered. I've never even seen it done, but the possibilities are intriguing. It would would be easier for one thing. One could just flatten the cap area as you would for any grip cap, then trace the outline of the inside portion to a slice of exotic wood, (ebony, burl, rosewood, etc.) then trim to fit. You could start the inlay slightly oversized and creep up on it for an absolutely perfect fit. It would be far simpler than keeping the chisel cuts straight when shaving the sides of the center part down. I don't think I'll got that route now, but I'll definitely think about it next time. Little Canoe, Just go for it! You have to start somewhere, this was my first one. I got a few pointers from my copy of "Gun Digest Book of Riflesmithing", and I think I may have seen another article or tutorial somewhere, as well as some photos for inspiration, but there are really no secrets. You just have to go slowly and be careful. I guess I can try to offer a few tips: As with any grip cap, think carefully about placement before you start. Look at the overall length and sweep of the entire grip area before you decide on the angle and position of the cap. It's probably more critical with this type of cap since you can't just flatten the area first then slide the cap to where you want it since you'll have the shaped center section stuck in the place you carve it. I used the profile of a Ruger #1 grip area that I decided has just the right amount of sweep for me. I pretty much just held the two side by side and placed it by eyeball. I was a little concerned that I should have placed the cap still further aft when I posted the first photo of the cap inlet to about half depth. Z pointed out that it looked like I'd end up with a long grip hanging down below the line from the toe of the butt. At that point he was right, and I thought it might look funny. However, now that I've got it to full depth and smoothed up this area I think it's about right. I might have moved it back about 1/8 inch looking at it now, but I'm happy with it. The transition from the toe line to the back edge of the cap is just a hair bigger than the radius of a rat-tail file which is about right for me. The way I started, and I'm not sure I'd do it like this again, was to drill the holes first and screw the cap down tight before doing any cutting. I then took an exacto knife and cut as deeply as I could around the inside edge. My rational was that I could use the edge as a guide to cut it to exactly the right size and shape. I then removed the cap and started chiseling the flat part very carefully up to the vertical cut I had traced. This formed a rough outline that I could then use to back the chisel up to as I kept going deeper with the vertical cuts. The problem with this technique is that no matter how careful you are, the blade is bound to slip away from the guiding edge of the cap. When it does, it cuts into the very part you DON'T want marred, however slightly. I think the best way would be to trace the outline in pencil, or tap it down with inletting black, then make the vertical cuts oversized and bit by bit slice it down to size with numerous tries tapping it in place with inletting black to highlight the spots to trim. It's painstaking any way you do it, just like inletting an action. Another tip that I'd recommend is that you protect the stock somehow. You end up chiseling in from all angles and there were a couple times that I slipped and lightly gouged bottom edge of the stock on the toe line from the butt end. (You can see this in the first photo if you look carefully) When the stock is clamped upside down this part angles up higher than the grip cap and is vulnerable. Maybe duct taping a piece of leather on would have been a good idea. Again, slow... light pressure... just a little at a time. Wow, I didn't think I'd have that much to say about it, but I just rambled on... It's fun to see the final results though. Best of luck if you try it, and be sure to keep us posted on your progress!

Thanks guys. It's far from perfect, but I think it will look nice when finished. One of the trickiest parts has been getting the flat part flat. The only other grip cap I did I just had to level everything off. It was pretty easy to drag a straight edge across and see where the high spots were then knock them flat with a file. This kind takes a little more painstaking chisel work. I was going to leave some wood around the inside edge, cut a border, and checker just the middle, but I think I'll probably checker all the way to the metal just to break up the border enough to cover the imperfections in the inletting. I'll be sure to post more photos of the final results.

I don't get too many opportunities to tinker these days, but I had a little free time this evening and made some progress on project #2. Here's the grip cap inlet to 99% full depth: Here I've made the first strokes with the sureform to get it contoured to the right profile: The front edge is contoured almost to the line: Here the back is rough shaped: (I wet the stock to see the grain... man it's going to be pretty!) Here's a little better view of the grain. Lots of fiddleback, the photo doesn't do it justice.

Cheddar cheese and egg yolk form a very durable baked on metal finish.

Looks very nice! Is that a stock mounted sling swivel and a barrel band I see, or is it a trick of the light?

Ooh, that's a tough one. It's either Tahoe or Crater Lake. I read that Tahoe has enough water to cover the entire state of California to a depth of 6 inches. I'll go with Tahoe... Where was the highest snowfall in US history recorded?

Buckminster Fuller. What is the highest mountain in North America?

Franklin D. Roosevelt. Where was Bing Crosby originally from?

I put together some photos of the progress so far. I hope to get all the skip sheathing up on the left side today, and start roofing it next weekend after the metal roof panels are delivered this week. I decided to roof in one side so that I can have some cover to keep material dry since we are starting to get into the rainy Fall weather now. I'll get the right side done before Winter... Mike's barn so far. P.S. Be patient if you have dial up, the photos may take a while to load.

Here's where I am in the project. Slow going, but starting to shape up. Monty's barn so far

Jeez, this is crazy stuff! Isn't there any kind of animal control program there? PITA, ASPCA, and Humane sociteies all ought to be interested in keeping non-native animal from breeding out of control. How are they putting that responsibility on you?! Fritz, what are the "three S's"?

You're a lucky man Karl!

Thanks for the tips, and for the interest in an update Jerry. I've been chipping away gradually, but I'm not to the roof yet. I'm almost done nailing down the 3/4 inch plywood flooring in the hayloft. Once that is in place I can get up on a step ladder to put a ridgebeam in place. Then I'll start building trusses. I bought the missus a new digital camera for her 40th this summer, I'll have to post some pictures of the progress to date. (and some better rifle shots!) Been busy this summer. New house, new job, an hour commute each way, (versus 15 minutes before) plus the barn project in addition to taking the kids to horse shows and other events on the weekend. Our 9 year old is riding in the state fair for the first time this weekend. Life is good. Meanwhile, my skeleton gripcap inletting taunts me every time I go into the workshop. Sometimes I pause, pull out the FN action, smooth my hand across the ebony tip I sanded flush with the figured walnut, gaze upon the finely checkered bolt knob, (unencumbered by an attached bolt body) admire the three position Dakota safety, and dream of what will oneday be..

I've never used a Buehler/Timney safety, but I don't think they lock the bolt. I have a Dayton Traister, and functionally I believe they are virtually identical to the Buehler model in that they cam the cocking piece back off the sear, but don't engage the slot in the bolt body that locks the bolt. Somebody please correct me if I'm wrong, but Rifleman is looking for a safety that blocks the firing pin, (cocking piece) while allowing the bolt to be cycled. I think the Buehler will work.

I am in the begining stages of building a 20'x24' barn, and would like to top it off with a Gambrel roof. I can figure out the angles I want, but I'm not sure how beefy I need to go in bracing the corner. I thought about using 1/2" plywood, cutting 4' lengths about 6" wide, and nailing these on each side of the angle where the 2x8 rafters meet. I was going to place the rafters 24" OC, with the top end resting on a ridge beam, and the bottom notched to fit a beam atop the side walls, and side nail the rafters to joists for the loft. I was then going to use 1x4 skip sheathing 24" apart, and top it with a metal roof. Does this sound like it would be sturdy enough? Does anybody have a proven truss design that they can describe, photograph, or scan a sketch of?

So that's why you go by "Doble Troble"!

Just to clarify, are these the same bolt assembly parts that were on the rifle that worked fine before you notched it for the handle? Also, just curious as the the type of safety... stock military or aftermarket?

Dukhntr, PM sent. Kinda long and rambling...