montea6b

I've always wanted to take a crack at working over a milsurp stock into a nice sporter. I think there is a lot of potential in those clunky pieces of wood that a patient wood sculptor could coax out. Most milsurp stocks look like just that... milsurp. Rojelio, I think yours is the best sporterized treatment of a military stock that I have seen yet. Did you put some wood plugs over the recoil bolt?

Walnut, you are quite the concoctionist. I've often wondered about combining finishes, but never sure if they would complement one another, or cancel each other out. I'd hate to have an adverse reaction and end up with a cloudy finsh. Interesting experiment.

Ouch that's cold! I spent a week in January about 10 years ago in Cold Lake Alberta, (apptly named) where it was -40 all week. What I remember is that when it gets that cold they caution you about breathing too rapidly. You really have to be careful and breath slowly to let the air heat up as it goes into your lungs or you can fry the little little avioli sacs with frostbite. You could feel the little hairs in your nose freeze on every intake, and I went out to the car once with damp hair after a shower and my hair froze! (would have worn a hat, but was getting right into the car.) Other than that as long as it wasn't breezy and you watched your exposed skin you could bundle up and it wasn't too bad. Kind of an interesting experience.

Good points, thanks. I'll have to check the owner's manual, hadn't actually thought of that!

If you have a pair of chains you are going to put on a 4x4, which set of wheels do you put them on, front or back? The answer is obvious for front or rear drive only cars, but I'm curious what the conventional wisdom is for 4x4s. I've only chained up my truck once and I put them on the front for max braking and steering control. We've had some snow recently and I saw a 4x4 truck with chains on the rear yesterday. While it looked "normal", it got me thinking about the rational behind this choice. Just wondering what others thought. (My wife just rolls her eyes at me when I try to use her as a sounding board for things like this that puzzle my sense of logic...)

I heard on the radio the 60% of doctors prescribe placebos without telling their patients. Hmmm...

724wd hit on the problem with this machine. It appears that the vertical travel of the router and indexing head occurs by pivoting around the bar that runs perpendicular to the axis of the stocks. By mounting the cutter on an arm, the angle of the cut will change from 90 degrees as this arm rotates. The relatively short radius of this arm exacerbates the problem. For outside shaping it would work, and might even be acceptable for inletting shallow side plates as pictured. However, for deeper inletting where you want the sides straight, like a mauser, it wouldn't work as the sides of the cut would curve. What is needed is a double pivot bracket so that the cutter can plunge straight up and down. Think of the retractable brackets that hold small outboard kicker/trolling motors on the transom of a boat... Something like that would work.

Very symetrical rack! I like that more than crazy points everywhere.

Isn't that a violation of the UCMJ? Anybody ever call him out on his badmouthing the Commander in Chief?

Very nice! Are you going to checker it?

That is good stuff! Thanks for posting.

Yep!

I know what is causing it, and how to fix, just surprised I have never seen it brought up before. Wondering what the consenus fix is... The issue is the guide rib on the bolt body does not completely clear the channel in the rear receiver bridge by the time the spring-loaded plunger in the shroud makes contact. Not a problem with a military receiver since the stripper clip cut-out is there to provide additional clearance. All it takes is a little forward pressure to clear, then the bolt can be locked down. However, if rapid cycling should ever be required I don't think this would be desirable. So, I could file a little off the corner of the inside edge of the last bit of guide rib channel in the receiver, or remove some of the guide rib itself. Or a combination of both, or nothing at all. Thoughts?

Unbelievable. How can an elected official get away with a statement like that without outrage in the media? Oh, I guess it's OK because is a member of an oppressed minority. Can you imagine the outcry if a white political leader commented that because Obama would cut up a steak with a knife, then he wouldn't hesitate to stick a white man with that same knife? What the hell is wrong with us that we let this go?!!

I'm not so sure I agree. I don't know much about this lady, but would you vote for her for President? That's how I view a VP. She's got 5 young kids and I don't think a she has whole lot of foreign policy savvy. To me it looks like a thinly disguised attempt to go after a certain voter demographic. Not necessarily the best way to choose someone a heartbeat away from the oval office. Maybe being from Alaska she can get the pentagon to give up that varmint round our military is using on insurgents and go back to the '06.

The slot is .073" wide. Here's a photo:

That banded front sight looks a lot like a Redfield I picked up a few years ago that has been sitting in the parts bin waiting for a home. The problem is it came with no sight blade, and I can't figure out where to get a replacement. It's not dovetailed, but slides into a longitudinal slot, and is pinned in place. Is yours similar, and do you know where I might be able to pick one up? By the way, nice rifle!

An email from Ireland to all of their brethren in the States...a point to ponder despite your political affiliation: 'We, in Ireland, can't figure out why you people are even bothering to hold an election in the United States.On one side, you had a pants-wearing female lawyer, married to another lawyer who can't seem to keep his pants on, who just lost a long and heated primary against a lawyer, who goes to the wrong church, who is married to yet another lawyer, who doesn't even like the country her husband wants to run! Now...On the other side, you have a nice old war hero whose name starts with the appropriate 'Mc' prefix, and is married to a good looking younger woman who owns a beer distributorship! What in God's name are ya lads thinkin' over in the colonies???

LC, Geez man your situation sounds a lot like mine! I installed a controller in my truck for a horse trailer and have had nothing but problems. It's frustrating because I don't know where to trouble shoot - is it the truck, controller, or trailer?! Truck and trailer are both used so they are definitely suspect. The truck had a controller before so I suspected that the wiring may have been goofy when I installed it. And it was, brakes came on full when I went to reverse. Sometimes... I had the wiring harness all checked out and redone so I'm pretty sure it is good now, but I was still having problems with overly sensitive brakes. I finally did something I don't do often enough and actually re-read the instructions. I had done this initially, and thought everything was set up, but caught something the second time that helped. The controller is a Tekonsha Voyager. There is a leveling adjustment knob on the left side that I kind of forgotten about. This needs to ba adjusted first per the setup instructions. Then, apparently, one should be able to make finer adjustments for trailer weight etc. with only the gain knob on the right side. I had gone through this at first, but never rechecked the leveling knob again. I found that it was set at a very aggressive level which was causing the brakes to lock at the slightest pressure. (P.S., when I mentioned this to a friend with the same controller who had been helping be troubleshoot he said incredulously "there's a knob on the left side?" Good to know I'm not the only one...) So I backed down the leveling knob, and by playing around with it and the gain knob I thought I had things working. One wheel on the dual axle trailer still seemed sensitive, but I attributed it to a sticky or out of adjustment brake. After several trips around the neighborhood fiddling with things and horking on the brakes I got to to where it was good enough. My F-250 has great brakes and I'm only ever hauling one or two horses locally on relatively level ground so I'm not overly concerned about the braking power. I just need to know they will help in a panic stop and that I can plug them in so the lights will work. They were intermittent before and so I had actually unhooked the plug on a short trip while loaded just to keep if from jerking around. So, I thought everything was good to go, but then after sitting for several weeks I hooked up to go again and the brakes completely locked up. Completely, as in I'm pulling the trailer forward from the grass on the side of the house to the driveway and all 4 tires are sliding on the dewy grass! I unplug the wire again to get in on pavement then start working it. It seemed that it would roll a little more each time, so by "rocking" it, they gradually worked themselves free. I'm thinking sticky brakes, but the mechanical answer doesn't explain why they would roll fine when I unplug the wiring... I took it around the block again and got my level of confidence to the point that I was willing to take in on the road loaded. I could always stop and unplug again if I needed to. The worst that happens is that it jerks a bit and makes a bunch of blue smoke at the back. It seemed to work just fine all the way there, but on arrival the brake drums were very warm as if they had been dragging the whole way. (a tribute to the pulling power of the mighty F250 Powerstroke diesel that I could tow a loaded trailer with dragging brakes and not even notice it!) So, enough about my woes. I guess the small kernel of advice I might offer is just to double check the set up instructions and re-adjust any and all knobs before you go much further. And thanks for the reminder to have this looked at again. The Evergreen State Fair starts in a couple weeks and the kids are showing the neighbor's horse. It would be nice to take him down worry-free... Good luck, and keep us posted.

How long did you let it dry for? Did you seal the end grain? Did you have any problems with checking? I tried to age a few small pieces of cherry and it cracked all to heck. I have a couple big trees at the place now that if I ever get around to trimming may donate parts of themselves to my hobby.

Karl, without taking sides on on the subject of drill versus no-drill, I just wanted to point out that drilling is not "creating" anything, it just draws from a resource created by nature over millions of years. Oil reserves will eventually go away, even if it is long after we are dust. We need long term sustainable energy options regardless of anyone's opinions on when or where to tap other sources of crude.

Major milestone, and on a Saturday to boot! Have a good one.

Add a belated one from me as well...

Hey, thanks guys! I haven't been on for a few days so it missed this until now. You made my day! Halfway to 90... Happy 4th!

There's lots of good advice and common sense on these forums, but if you're looking for a legal opinion on federal law you should get it in writing from the ATF.