montea6b

I posted this before I even saw the other racks, so yeah I was talking about mulies. By the way, I appreciate racks of all kinds as much as the next guy, but I got busted by my 11 year old daughter opening up the photo link above. A simple "rated R" warning would be nice!

I hate to spoil anyone's fun, but I have seen this before and I believe it to be composite photo done of a bunch of record holders. With the miracle of digital photograph manipulation you can't trust anything you see anymore...

It's rare that I actually laugh out loud, but that did it for me!

I copied that same picture into my inspirational photos folder! That is a very nice looking rifle. A little bit of fancy engraving, but not over the top. Z, that's the kind of forward chamber area to barrel transition I was talking about.

I have heard of these types of stories before. What disturbs me in scene two and three is that no mention is made of raising a ruckus at the time of the incident. Valuable evidence could have been obtained at the time that could be used to put an end to that particular little scam. In scenario 2 I would have walked over, grabbed the expired card that was tried to pass to me, and called in a manager. If that card did not happen to belong to a diner that was in the restaurant at the time, (proving that it could have been an innocent mistake) I'd have the police there to arrest somebody. In scenario 3, I would seize the cell phone, and if there was an image of my card on it I'd have management and the police immediately involved. Police might even have to make two arrests... one of them being me, for assaulting the punk. Anytime we as the general population fail to take action to prevent these sorts of things we just pass this crime along to the next victim. I always go out of my way to thank any clerk who asks me for my ID. We should encourage this, and never disparage anybody who attempts to prevent fraud.

Great story Jason!

One sort of hybrid technique I haven't seen mentioned yet is to cut most of the way through the handle at the root, heat and bent to the desired angle, then fill in the resulting open notch with weld. I haven't personally seen any done like this, but it seems to me that if you like the military "gumball" that this option could provide a little more length, without the potential deforming effects on the root that forging would. Anybody out there tried this?

I'm kinda partial to this one. Look familiar?

Just the vice. It has a groove that the threads rest in to keep the piece level. Not the best, but it seemed to work on the first attempt.

That's a good idea, but how well do you think they would work with a drill press? I'd be a little concerned that I couldn't feed it fast enough and that the cutters would glaze or work harden the surface I was cutting. Could I go slow enough and still have them cut efficiently?

To loosely paraphrase Thomas Edison, I have succeeded in discovering a way to install a Wisner side swing safety on a canted angle. Besides that small discrepancy, I am actually encouraged by the results. Let me back up... As the title of this topic states, I don't have a mill, lathe, or any other machining equipment, but I have looked at the sideswing safeties and pondered how difficult it would be to install with the tools I have. I decided to give it a go, and here is a brief report on the results. First, I annealed the shroud. Then I chucked a 1/8" thick Dremel grinding stone in the drill press, scribed lines where I wanted to make the first cut, put the RPM at max, clamped the piece in a drill press vice, adjusted the height of the table to match my lines with the stone, and commenced to feed it in by hand. I recognize the limitations of the drill press as mill and proceeded with very light pressure, feeding it in slowly. This is when I made the first mistake... I probably would have been OK if I had fed it in evenly, but for some reason I began to alternate sides. It then caught a bit on one side, and the rotation of the grinding stone kicked the piece to the side, chipping a small piece out of the stone in the process. I stopped the press to examine this, then elected to proceed. Well, it didn't take long for the whole stone to disintegrate. (wear your safety glasses kids!) So I took it out, put it in a bench vice, and finished the job with a hacksaw. Sounds Bubba, I know, but I made two cuts and removed the sliver in the middle, and I was still well undersized. Then I went to work with a flat needle file. I stopped frequently to test fit, and was being very careful to keep the file flat and square so I would end up with a nice "machined" look and tight fit. Like I said, I am actually quite pleased with how I did, but I made a second mistake... I had the shroud set vertically in the vice so it would cut better with the hacksaw, and I could apply even pressure to both top and bottom portions of the cut as I widened the slot, but I neglected to ensure that I was making it level. So, once it was wide enough to slip the safety lever into and I took it out of the vice, and it was then that I noticed that the lever cants upwards. You can see this for yourself below. (sorry that the picture is not the best focus) It's not horrible, but noticable enough and now it will bother me. I was disappointed, but I decided to proceed for training purposes. The next step was to mill a cut on the side for the lever to swing freely. I changed stones, reset the shroud in the vice, and again proceeded to feed the work in with very light pressure. Here is a shot of the "milling" set up I used: Again, I think I proved that the concept is sound and the results are acceptable. However, because of the cant to the lever and a crack in the shroud itself, (not related to any work I have done in it, looks like a flaw in the metal) I think I will acquire a new shroud and try again. Here's one more photo. If you look at the right side on the top, right were the safety shaft comes out to engage the slot on the bolt body, you can see a hairline crack. Not too noticable, but now I have two strikes against this shroud.

I'm intriged and haven't seen anything like this before. It looks like a streamlined commercial shroud with a milsurp safety added. Please, tell us more...

I buy mesquite chunks for BBQ, and in the last bag there were a couple pieces big enough for a pistol/knife handle. I put them aside, but haven't done anything with them yet. Just an FYI on an unconventional source to consider for smaller pieces...

No, you lost it when you thought it fired with the safety to the right... Now you're getting it back! As you can see, there's really only one way to install the safety and you can tell whether it's blocking the cocking piece or not just by looking at it in each position.

I'm ignorant, but what is this? Obviously some sort of mauser carbine, but is this an actual military configuration with the flash hider, etc? Any governments field a model like this? Is it a repro of an original, or a made up version? I have a VZ that I would like to modify and I have contemplated doing something different with it... i.e. some sort of parkerized carbine that could double as an open sighted brush gun for hunting. I'm just not sure what direction to take and was wondering if something like this would work.

I did the same thing with a 30-30 once when I didn't have the 22. I had heard that you should aim at the head with a rifle. If you hit it, great, but if you don't and come close the shock wave will stun them enough that you may be able to catch it and wring its neck. I aimed for the head, but hit the body square on. (open sights on a '94) Talk about an explosion! I hate wasting meat on an animal I killed, but I picked at this one for a while and there wasn't a morsel bigger than a dime without feathers and bone fragments in it. Total waste of a good bird.

I can't answer the first part with any degree of credibility, but I just used a finish reamer on mine. It shoots a little over MOA with factory ammo. I haven't shot it since bedding however, and don't currently reload. I'm sure I can do a bit better.

Condition too. I'm not good enough to tell if something has been refurbished, but they looked like photos I've seen of unissued Persians.

I wonder if lapping the bolt face a little might help as well? As far as tightening torque, here's a good thread from the archives: Barrel install torque

Hey, that sounds like a great marketing opportunity for your business! What a fantastic father/son package. I've seen completed rifles for sale with consecutive numbers, but the chance for a custom build, choosing a stock blank, caliber, etc. is a different story. I wouldn't wait for "someday", you should advertise this...

Here's a page from my "electronic diary" cobbled together from old posts I made during my first project. Hope the perspective helps: I've seen two techniques espoused for this procedure, and was wondering if there were any pros or cons to either or whether it was simply a matter of personal preference. method 1: Install barrel on action and use an extension to ream chamber, checking depth frequently with headspace gauge in bolt. method 2: Measure distance from bolt face to front of receiver ring, subtract the distance from shoulder to barrel shank, then ream unmounted barrel until gauge protrudes by this amount. (final test is obviously to try to chamber appropriate gauges...) Well, still haven't started to make any chips yet, but I got everything out and started setting up. (I have to whittle away at projects like this in small chunks of available time!) I measured everything carefully, drew a sketch, then checked and rechecked my math. I also hand tightened the barrel and tried to chamber a go gauge to measure on the bolt how far I needed to ream as a final common sense check of my work before I start removing metal. (I've made enought mistakes in my time that I've learned it's worth the extra effort...) After all that I've determined that without a good micrometer I don't trust myself to get it reamed to the proper depth before screwing the barrel on. I tried multiple measurments with a good dial caliper and as careful as I was I still got variations plus or minus >.002. Not close enough to allow for a crush fit. So, I think I will start reaming with the barrel off for the best control, and once it is within approx .01 or so, mount the barrel and finish it off using the headspace gauge for final depth measurement. Well, I finally got 'er done this afternoon and reamed my first chamber. (In between periodic breaks to watch my Seahawks achieve a spectacular last second victory!) Anyhow, it went pretty well for the most part. Lesson learned: The reamer can cut either very slowly, or very quickly. It depends on how much pressure you put on it. As stated above, I started with the receiver off, and would drop in a Go gauge every time I cleaned the reamer off to measure progress with the depth end of my dial calipers. To clean the chamber I used a can of WD-40 with the little straw to essentially flood and rinse all the chips out, with everything dripping on a towel I'd laid on the floor. Things were going slowly at first, and each time I measured there wasn't much apparent change. I had about .4xx to go so I started increasing the force a bit. The next time I took the reamer out and checked, the Go gauge suddenly dropped WAY in. I had calculated that the gauge needed to protrude by .118, and held my breath as I measured it at .17. So far so good, time to mount the barrel. I cinched it down good and snug and stamped an index mark on the underside just in case it should ever need to come back off. I then got out the extensions and bolt, and continued. Once again things were progressing somewhat slowly, so I increased the force a little. I was going slowly and checking frequently, hoping to achieve a nice tight chamber, yet suddenly on the next check the go gauge was just swallowed up! Oh oh... Once again I crossed my fingers and hoped for the best as I got out the "No Go" gauge. Thankfully it would not chamber, although it is closer than I had hoped. The bolt will stop about 10-20 degress of arc short of closing. Not exactly match quality, but I have to assume that it is at least safe.

Wish I had a little more disposable cash lying around... Gunbroker auction

Nice sequence of the porker's progression to your dinner plate! How did he taste? Whereabouts in Texas are you these days Jason?

Well, it's kinda hard to tell sometimes if someone is serious or not. I used to carry my dad's Ruger Single Six all the time while deer hunting. Got a few grouse for camp meat with it. Now that's a nice pistol to consider. They come with a swap out cylinder for 22LR or 22mag.

I know lots of deer have fallen to the 22, but they're not legal out here and I wouldn't shoot a deer with a 22 pistol anyhow. Certainly not one that's outside of bow range. I realize you are on a budget, but I would think with some looking you might find an older Blackhawk for around 3 bills. I'd feel a lot better touching off a 44 or 45 on deer.