wiley

Mil speak for Pearl Harbor

https://leeprecision.com/mold-d-c-375-130-1r.html

All of them have cased carbines under the front chute, like the front view if the guy at the cockpit entryway. Chutes require both hands.

The guy with the 45 is perhaps a jumpmaster and expecting to go back with the plane or jump if there is a shoot down

Giving anything up won't make them go away. They will be back for the next concession about 1 nanosecond later.

Ask the Brits about butter knives.

www.mudderboots.com

Part of the bushing purpose is to set head space for the chamber. It also has to prevent the gap from closing between front of cylinder and barrel forcing cone. During recoil the cylinder wants to move forward and the bushing is a solid stop against that. The back has to be open for the cylinder ratchet to be engaged by the hand. I believe the bushing is a slip fit on the EMF, maybe a little Kroil would persuade it?

Not sure if this is your model, but a good place to start:

http://www.emf-company .com/store/pc/1873-GWII-Non-Transfer-Bar-Models-c510.htm

There is a base pin bushing that fits into the front of the cylinder. It can be a slip fit or pressed in. It controls forward movement of the cylinder or end shake. .006" gap is usually considered nominal as mentioned above.

You might try taking out the firing pin and see how it works with just the bolt body

http://www.jprifles.com/1.6.1a.php

I've had some good luck with VTI, I wonder if you could email them that pic and find out if they recognize your part? It appears that the pivot pin is a different diameter, too

Ya haven't had enough caffine till you can thread a sewing machine... while it's running!

http://twistedsifter.com/2014/11/anthem-arizona-veterans-memorial/

^{I have an old Steyr M95 in 30-40 Krag, never really fooled with it yet....}

Dang! http://deti.mil.by/templates/swf/Pistol/index .swf

Close up the .swf after pasting the first part in.

http://deti.mil.by/templates/swf/Pistol/index.swf

1. http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-antiques/

These folks would be helpful for re assembly.. to avoid added grief, I'd be vague on how it happened... You might want to double check the cylinder IDs to see if that load egged out the cylinder. I have an old Webley MkVI that won't extract because all the 45acp in its shooting career did the egg thing to it.

Regards,

Wiley

Dang computers!

deti.mil.by/templates/swf/Pistol/index.swf

and add http:// to the front.. if this takes.

http://deti.mil.by/templates/swf/Pistol/index.swf

Happened to me years ago in my Marlin 30/30. Don't know if it will work on your's but I was able to pull it out of mine with a 410 cleaning brush. After removing the bolt I forced the 410 brush into the cartridge and while a good portion of the brush was inside the cartridge I jerked the cleaning rod back out and it pulled the brass with it.

Make sure the ejector comes out and gets back in the right way, they can be overlooked.

On page 7:

http://stevespages.com/pdf/marlin_336_444_1895.pdf

I had this going on with a Vaquero in 44-40 and sent the cylinder to: http://www.cylindersmith.com/

I often search for deals on tools on EBay and have seen 1&1/8X12tpi split dies around $35 a number of times. They aren't there all the time but if you can be patient.

The other thing would be to do a Google search and find them. I found 1/4X22 taps that weren't from Brownell.

 

If you don't have a split die holder to compress the die from 1&1/8 down to 1.1, it's going to be really hard to find a re-thread hex die in 1.1. If you think that you'll do this more than once, it might be worth while to buy the die holder too.

 

I've used the split dies when the barrel shank is a hair too big.

 

Another idea would be to have someone with a lathe chase the threads. When I was getting started,I found a local machine shop that re-threaded a Remington barrel to Mauser small shank

.98X12 for just $20. Maybe you could go to your local machine shop with your barrel and receiver and when it screws on you are done.

 

I hope one of these ideas is helpful

T

http://www.mcmaster.com/#dies/=bryaba

These guys have metric

Wiley

I would suspect that .001" difference has little to do with your issue. The original 7mm round that these were designed for was for a long heavy bullet with a rifling twist that was tailored for it. Modern 7x57 uses a lighter bullet with a different twist.

If you want to do a .285 bullet, casting would be the most logical step; but a long heavy bullet would still be necessary.

Another methodology is called "bumping up" the bullet diameter, here's a discussion: http://www.lasc.us/Brennan_4-1_BulletSizingBumping.htm

While bumping up is mainly for cast bullets, bullet swage dies from Corbin or CH4D should be sources, you would have to pay for a specialty die diameter and the jacket would tend to spring back, meaning that the die diameter would need to be bigger than .285".

HTH

Wiley

A tight chamber means the brass will have to expand less in order to obdurate, so it will last longer. The case length and caseneck dimensions are the ones to have a concern for high pressures.

It's like a Mowery rifle: http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=163561086 and there were 2 different Wesson rifle replicas in the early '70s that were similar. I have Mowerys in 40 and 58 cal, the former is a light gun for small game and the latter is a pig and appreciated for that!

I remenber a replica Allen cased rifle. It had a very short barrel and a detachable butt stock. The design honored a "Sunday After Church" shooting kit from the 1820's.

Sorry for the detour, but the weight/handling is mostly in the barrel: length, caliber, profile. It is simple to build, very few parts. Matching barrel threads to the action would be the biggest hump.

Regards,

Wiley