bja105

I tried to order a new firing pin from Numrich today. Apparently I can't pay online, so once I fax my credit card info on monday, I'll get a new one to try. If its no better, I'll try to shorten one.

I did some measuring this morning. Firing pin protrusion is .119"! The diameter of the tip is .074", for a length of .191". Comparing my bolt to the one pictured, the front of the camming piece on the striker seems to have less of a gap between it and the rear of the cutout in the bolt. Thanks for the picture.

It is definately a problem with too much protrusion. The firing pin tip is certainly a dome, with no sharp edges. Does anyone have a Mas 36 they can get pics of? I would like to see pics of the striker stop at the rear of the bolt.

I was given a "Golden State Arms, Santa Fe Model 1949", a sporterized Mas 36. The barel is 16", the stock has a cheekpiece, and better than average wood on the buttstock. None of the numbers match. It has an original stepped military barrel. The rear sight is a cheap plastic one, held on (barely) by a single screw. I fired it this weekend, I bought 2 boxes of FNM 170G fmj. The first round, fired at arms length with shooting glasses and my chainsaw helmet(with face shield). The first two rounds looked OK, just a bit weird looking firing pin dent(in retrospect.) Round three (fired from the shoulder, of course) pierced the primer, and sent some gas back to my face. I stripped the bolt again, nothing glaring wrong, except the firing pin protrusion is obviously too much. The firing pin tip protrudes past the ring around the bolt face. Why the extreme protrusion? I guess the mismatch could go as far as the striker. How to fix? O could grind down the firing pin tip. The tip looks replacable, like a Springfield. Are there parts out there for a MAS 36? I haven't seen much about French sporters, anyone have one?

I have started on my next project, a VZ-24, an Adams and Bennet 35 whelen barrel and a corelight stock. 1. I want to try bending the bolt myself. I have the wheeler bolt forging blocks, heat paste and heat sink. I don't yet have an oxy acetylene torch. I have an air/acetylene turbo torch I use for work. It gets hot enough to braze 7/8 od copper, if that means anything to you. Will this get my bolt hot enough to forge? Will it get camming surfaces hot enough to re-harden? Or, should I wait a few months until I can buy an oxy acetylene setup? I have two turk bolts to practice on before I do the keeper. 2. I used perma blue on a couple projects, and found it unacceptable. My next blue job will use oxpho blue, but I'm thinking an epoxy coating like duracoat, or even just parkerizing will do for this rifle. Nothing I do is gonna make the corelight stock pretty, so I might as well paint it, but it does not need to be the same coating as the metal. I have no stainless tank, no airbrush, no sand blaster, but I could scrounge them if needed, adding to my cost. What are my options? I could build a tank from PVC, but I cant see an easy way to heat it. What about the spray can coatings? Any advise from someone as cheap as me? Thanks Jason

Me Too! bja105@hotmail.com Thanks

Dunhams in monroeville (next to the mall) and North Versailles. Two good shops in Delmont, Woodlands Edge, across 22 from Walmart, and Delmont sport shop on 66, 1/2 mile north of 22. Reloaders Outlet in Penn Hills. He has a nice 1903a3 sporter, 2 Jap type 38, one original, one sporter. He doesnt have loads of guns, but a reloading store is cool. I get some cheap bulk and surplus bullets there. Highland sports in Murrysville, also on 22, has alot of top shelf guns. Its the only place I've ever seen a Blaser 93. He had some fine custom sporters. Not much milsurp, but good to look at. He might be closing, and was trying to sell me anything in the store at cost. He had a breakin, they cleaned out his handguns, which I think pushed him to close. Braverman Arms, Penn avenue in Wilkinsburg, has lots to see, but the neighborhood isn't very nice. 2 Pawn shops on the north side, a block apart. Lots of guns and guitars. I don't know any in Elizabeth or the South Hills, But I'm sure there are loads of them. If you want to take a long ride, there is Grice in clearfield, or Cabelas in west Virginia, But you'll pass Cabeles in Hamburg on your way west. Thats all I can think of for now, but gun shops are like Pizza joints around here.

Thanks for the info. I guess I could get the stock, and cut the triggerguard to match the inletting. round the couners with a file. Sound like a plan? pros/cons? Could anyone post pics of sporters and how the bottom metal was handled?

I'm getting a type 38 sporter, rebareled to .308. The stock might be the original, but slimmed and very ugly. Ugly and it does not fit me. And realy ugly. Does anyone have any experience with an aftermarket stock? Do these rifles usualy have bottom metal extending behind the trigger guard? Thanks

Thanks for the input. I've dry fired it a few hundred times, hoping to smooth it out. I've got my trigger control good, and the bolt seems to get better, but I'm just getting used to it. When I pick up my springfiels, i see just how bad the turk is. After lots of dry firing, and about 20 live rounds, if a camming surface is too soft, would it be showing wear? The entire bolt has been blued (no change in bolt lift) so I can see were parts are wearing. Dumb question, where is the camming surface that would be softened? A picture would help me. Thanks Jason

I bought a forged bolt on e-bay, for my turk. The new bolt corrected my headspace problem, but it is hard to cock after dry firing. In other words, the upstroke is difficult. A previous thread mentioned it could be the cocking lug needs to be re-hardened. How do I know if this is the case, and how do I do it? Any other likely causes?

Mimic, What scout scope mount is on that rifle? How do you feel the thumbhole stock works for a fast second shot? I'm thinking about a project like yours, and I like the looks of your rifle.