swamp_thing

Somebody needs to archive this picture and thread so we have it from now on. Great illustration MorgansBoss. swamp_thing

RGRWJB, I agree about the belgian barrel or steel but I was not aware of it ever being stamped on the receiver instead of the barrel. Learn more with each day. Thanks for the input. Hopefully, mauserbull will be able to find more markings and post them as well as any other distinguishing factors. swamp_thing

wwhitby, you have a pm. swamp_thing

wwhitby, I checked today and I do have the fore end stock that I mentioned. It will need the brass inserts installed for the receiver to rest on. You can probably make a couple if you don't have them. If you want it, let me know. swamp_thing

mauserbull, if you can, measure the barrel length from the receiver to the muzzle and post any other markings. Also, what are the markings on the rear sight? Were there markings lined out and restamped? Any SA markings anywhere? These things will definately help to figure out for sure what it is. swamp_thing

I wondered about the johnson's paste wax but did not know if moisture would turn it white. Seems that I had remembered this happening a long time ago with it on another use. I was sure that would not happen with the car waxes and thus my question. It just seems to me that unlike oil, it would not run off or displace allowing moisture or air to the metal. I am ready to try it myself as I have reached a point of not knowing what else to do. Might even try the Johnson's wax. swamp_thing.

Living in an area that has a degree of salt air has proven to be a challange for keeping rust from starting on my rifles, especially under the wood line. I have always kept them well oiled and I find that still, if I am not careful and frequently pulling them apart, rust will form. I am considering trying to go to waxing the barrels and action with a high quality automotive type wax as a vapor barrier as opposed to oil. Mainly I am thinking of the ones that don't get used much. Are there any of you that use this method and if so how has it worked out. There must be some out there that have the same issues to deal with. Any thoughts folks? swamp_thing

As the others have said so far, happy to have newer folks join in and offer their contributions to the site. That is exactly what makes the place so good to be. New people, new ideas and even more subject matter for the rest to share. Glad you are here and look forward to your thoughts and projects. swamp_thing

The first one will always stick in your memories. I shall always remember when I got mine. Was doing all the wrong things, drinking coffee, smoking a cigarette and beating my hands together to try and thaw them out. Just goes to show that when it is your time to score, it will work out. Sounds like you had a great day. swamp_thing

Just looked in the Mosin-Nagant rifle book by Lapin and found this info. The B on the barrel (Finland) when found with no makers marking almost certainly means the barrel is made with Belgarian produced steel. As for the IIIK the only reference it has is for IIK which it says is a russia/USSR proof mark. Maybe others can tell you more, but this is what I found in the book. Are there any other markings on the rifle? swamp_thing

I believe that I do have one that I got from tapco a couple of years ago. It is beach wood I believe, not walnut. It is a cut down number 1 mk 3 stock that would be fine for what you are looking for. If you are interested let me know and I will check to be sure that I do in fact have it still. It is yours for the cost of shipping. swamp_thing

mauserbull is 100% correct. Any c&r rifle or pistol purchased or acquired after you become a c&r licensee must be logged in regardless if your license was used for purchase or not. Furthermore, any c&r rifle or pistol that you owned prior to becoming licensed must be logged out if and when you sell it while licensed. They are not required to be logged into the book if you owned them prior to the license however. So, if you do sell one that you already had prior to the license, when you log it out of your log book make a notation that they were owned prior to becoming a licensee. swamp_thing

my favorite styles of safeties for the mauser with a scope would have to be the beuhler style safety, or the safety on the timney trigger assembly. I have used both and they are well suited for the job. If I were to be using a timney trigger I would probably go with the trigger/safety combination. Otherwise, it would be beuhler style for sure. swamp_thing

Sounds like you did real good on this one. The MN's are a real nice rifle in my opinion. I have several and usually cannot pass up a deal on one when I find them. Is it worth the night on the couch? Would have to say yes it is. Also, if you really get literally sent to the dog house, the m44 is a nice short rifle and should fit in there with you. Seriously, what you describe is a real good gun. swamp_thing

Well, after another round of cleaning today I think I have about reached the maximum degree of shine that I can get with this rifle. It no longer looks dark really, more of a shiny light grey. The next step will be to shoot some rounds through it and then see if it will clean up anymore. I am considering degreasing the stock and cleaning it up as well. Will probably wait until after I see how well it shoots though. Thanks to RGRWJB on this one for the fine advice. swamp_thing

Having always been one to try and make a tool for the job, this post is indeed interesting to me. I find that making the tool is often as much or more fun than the project it was intended for. Your creativity here has given me a new thought for making a bolt jig/cooling tool. I wonder if one could fill the tube with heat sink compound instead of water? Great idea and great job as well. Keep up the good work. swamp_thing

RGRWJB, I have to say that I believe you have nailed the culpret here on this one. This stuff is like trying to remove concrete from the bore, and when I get a patch caked with it after scrubbing the bore, the patch is almost brittle from the stuff. Never seen rust do that. I still work at it from time to time, and it is progressively improving, but is real slow going. I thank you for the advice on this, as I might well have given up before now otherwise, figuring it was just always going to be dark. swamp_thing

Thanks all for the kind words. I appreciate all your responses. Hope to do another over the winter. swamp_thing

Clemson, I have used several of richard's stocks and have never really had much problem with their inletting. That is not to say that it has always been perfect though. I have encountered small gaps at times like on the corners of the magazine wells. A bit of well blended glass bed though and they are not noticable. I do not get the 99% inletted, but rather the one's I think they say are like 95%. Drop in type fits are always going to not fit somewhere. As for the modern classic I do like the fit of the stock and the lines. This particular stock was a factory second, bought some time ago for $40.00 (actually 13.00 more for left hand cut). I had previously had a different rifle in it and when I decided to use it here I cut much more wood off the fore end and wrist area and reshaped it a bunch. Then I completely refinished it. I use only Formby's tung oil finish on my stocks. This is the gloss finish, with the first several coats sanded into the stock. Then there are about 4 layers that were applied after the pores were filled with very light sanding in between. As far as Richards stocks I will ad one more thing. I did get a mosin nagant stock from them once, also posted on this site, that was slightly crooked on the magazine inletting. I was able to straighten it out and when I contacted Richards they offered to either replace it, take it back, or give me 50% of my money back. I took the partial refund and was thoroughly pleased with their service. In light of some other suppliers poor cust service this was a pleasing experience. Thanks to both of you on the nice comments. swamp_thing

I too agree that the 7.62x39 is in fact a .311 bullet. It would seem that it might be better to find a barrel chambered for this round and not use the adapter in this project. You could always find something that is chambered for 308 with a large ring receiver for using the adapter. Of course you still have the bore differences, but at least the adapter would be in a stronger recieiver. Just my opinion and it is your project so take it for what it is worth. swamp_thing

I finished the Mark X in 6.5x55 last night and now only need so sight in and test how it shoots. This is a barreled action that I got from my brother and the stock is a modern classic. Many thanks to my brother on this one. The rifle has a hinged floor plate, adjustable trigger with safety and is in beautiful condition. Hope you enjoy this one guys. swamp_thing

Well, in that case I guess I had better get busy on the next stock I have laying in a corner. It seems that we have him where we want him fritz, let's keep the enticement coming. They do admittedly make a dang fine looking rifle in the right wood and I have no problems with their ability to shoot where pointed. swamp_thing

Glad I got the fever too. Sure beats the heck out of some things a guy could get stuck on. Guess we all just have to give ourselfs an injection of more rifles every so often to keep from being overcome by the virus. swamp_thing

Do you see what that uncle did to you looking back at it now. If he had just let that mauser rest in the shop the addiction would have probably never started. Oh well, time cannot be erased, and the bug bit, so you are now doomed to the sickness of where can I find just one more. It will follow you to the grave my friend, so just give in to the whims and never pass a gun shop or gun show by without stopping. Enjoy the sickness. swamp_thing

Which gentleman, is what a few of us have been trying to say for some time now. It is not going to be either cost effective or in the opinion of many safe practice to try this at home. When there are those that have the experience and expertise to do this job right at a price within reason, considering the safety matters, it is best left to them. I am the first to say if you can do something yourself and save money go for it, but if you risk life and limb in the process what exactly do you save. Even if it did seem to be sucessful initially, if the receiver happens to become brittle time and repeated firing will explode it. Not worth risking your life of the life of others to save in this case. swamp_thing