bstarling

Remember something about a worn magazine spring.

 

Can you swap that out and see if it makes a difference?

The extractor maybe worn or not grabbing the case rim tightly. I did a 8x57 to 35 Whelen conversion and had the same problem. There were two issues. The extractor and also I had to open the forward part of the rails to guide the round better. The Whelen is wider at the tip of the round and needs more clearance near the feed ramp.

Bill

I continue to be impressed with your work Darin. I love that Carcano bolt handle. Who did that one?

Bill

I would like to interject my thoughts on the subject.

 

Around 5 years ago or so, I decided to get into fabricating my own firearms when loads of Turkish Mausers hit the market. I did a bunch of research on equipment needs after buying and trading for several decent Turk rifles.

This MFRC site provided a bunch of information after joining and I picked the brains of several machine savvy members here.

I had machine shop experience, but little actual lathe experience. My limited funds caused me to consider a mini-lathe for reworking Remington take-off barrels to fit the Turk's Large ring/small thread actions. I bought a Cummins mini 7x12, and with a steady rest and live center and a good bit of patience, I started my adventure into amateur gunsmithing.

I added a 4" chuck, and was able to rethread some Rem barrels that I bought on ebay, back when they still sold them. And yes, it was a tight fit on the 7x12, but once I developed a technique, it served my intentions very well.

You'll find that common sense and a mini-lathe can do a lot of work for you, but they do have limitations.

 

Here's a link to a nice mini and some good information.

 

http://littlemachineshop.com/4100

 

 

Spiris

You can make a mandrel from an old Mauser barrel stub. That way you can make it the length you need and it will fit into a 7x machine. I have a 7x12 Homier and it can face a receiver and if necessary thread a barrel. The motors don't have a lot of torque so you have to thread fast. That is nerve wracking for me, but it can be done.

Bill

Way to go Dad!!

Outstanding!! Congratulations to both of you.

Bill

I bought a pre-chambered barrel blank and had it fitted into the original barrel shank. So not sure about the reaming part. Ther original caliber was 6.5 mm carcano.

 

This has a crude one shot mag/storage so the best I can do with the 357 mag shell is a single shot with a ready follow up. It does eject well. It may actually feed with the original clip system with the longer max round, but I haven't tried it.

Darin, did you use the barrel stub from the original barrel and bore it to take the 357 barrel? I've heard of that being done with H&R single shots.

Bill

That magazine sounds like a perfectly good arrangement for the sort of hunting you described. I am amazed at the nice wood for $15, and your woodworking is great as well. I imagine that you can load that 357 up pretty hot in that big old Mannlicher action. Have you gotten it to the test firing stage?

Bill

Darin, I've been following this project off and and on for a while. This is a really creative use of an old Manlicher action. I may have missed it, but how did you make the magazine? The old Carnaco's all used rimless ammo with the Manlicher clip. I can see that you've replaced that entirely. As an aside, one of those in the long rifle configuration was my first military rifle. I bought it at a JM Fields store for $7.50 when I was 14. I rode my bike to the store, paid my $$ and rode home with the gun and 20 rounds of ammo. Oh how things have changed.

Bill

first off, welcome! and don't worry about your action being "TOO" long. lots of .308's have been built on full length mausers with fine results. the typical solution for this recipe is to use a magazine block or spacer. at the front or back (if it were me, i'd do the back) a block is placed or welded to reduce the length of the mag box. you will also need a shortened follower and mag spring. i bought a kit from numrich years ago but was not happy with it. i have the follower/spring if you want them. the block was chopped for another project. the follower is some type of plastic, which is probably why i didnt like it. like i said, you can have them if you want them. you'll have to pay attention to the feeding of the .308 rounds, as they have a different taper than the feed rails were designed for. it way work super slick as is, or it might require some work to get to feed reliably. screw on a new tube, headspace and hit the range!

For what it's worth, I was recently considering building a 308 on a 98 action. Wound up doing a 35 Whelen instead, but to the point, I tried the function of 308's through the action and had no problem at all with feeding. I haven't finished the Whelen yet, but hope I have the same success with it feeding, but I bet I won't.

Good luck,

Bill

5 seconds more and this site would be rated "R". I have to put my thumb over her to read the posts, but damn I like it.

LOL! I thought I was the only one with a fixation on that gal..............OH MY GOODNESS!!!!

Bill

Guys the scopeing of it will be easy but not real cheap if you use leupold QD mounts and rings and site a scope in for each barrel you should be golden but its a extra bbl and scope and rings for each caliber. also when your at it if you can find a second cbolt that will share headspace interchangably you could have a total package in one big case to cover anything.

 

Rod

I had actually thought of that but decided it would be more economical to calculate the clicks of correction and dial them into the scope when changing barrels. The multiple scopes and bolts would work really well though.

Does anyone have any experience with the Dura-Coat in the stainless steel or gun blue colors?

Bill

Are you planning on spinning each barrel on or something like an interrupted thread?

 

If you check the archives you may find a few years ago one fellow went into the interrupted thread idea

at some length. I lost interest when it was realized what would be involved in correcting for the the various

points of impact with one scope. I didn't want to refer to some chart / table of correction factors for each barrel.

I guess that you might have a scope mounted to each barrel in scout configuration.

What aiming method have you come up with to deal with the different points of impact of different barrels?

 

Best of luck with you project, by the way.

We love to see creativity here.

And also a hearty WELCOME!!! to the board!

Tinker

Tinker, Thanks for the welcome. I've been hanging around for a while and decided to get involved a bit. The rifle I'm in the process of doing is a screw in job using a lengthened thread on the shank. About 3 threads will work. I have made a barrel nut along the line of the Savage system. I've experimented with a 8mm military barrel and just turned the shoulder down and added three threads to it for the nut. It works just fine and is a cinch to headspace. I can take it off and replace it and headspace in 60 seconds flat. The sighting system is still somewhat of a mystery. The idea of a scout scope on each barrel certainly would work. I have also thought that I can do some range work with the barrels and come up with a way of compensating for each barrel by presetting the scope after changing barrels. This would involve some record keeping, but should work well. I think! This is very much a work in progress and any suggestions would be appreciated.

Bill

http://www.alvinproducts.com/Products/Products.asp?id=2

This stuff should work very well for filling pits, especially if you're going to use a

bake-on finish.

This thread is very interesting to me. I am in the process of making a change barrel on an FN30 Colombian action. It too has some craters in the ring, especially where the wood overlapped at the front. I've thought about the parkerizing as well, but after seeing the one with the stainless coating I think that might be the way to go. I am wondering if the stainless Dura-Coat would work as well. JB Weld could be used as a filler under this as it does no need baking. The first barrel for the set up is going to be a 35 Whelen by the way.

Bill