jeffturk

I picked up a VZ24 recently. when i got it home and after looking at it real good. found a stamp on the bottom that says BG Lark & Sons. does anyone have any idea who or what this is?

i got in touch with them, turn around is quite a few weeks out. thanks for the info.

would like to make mine look similar to this one.

i am looking to buy a mannlicher style stock for my 6.5x50 type 38. does anyone have any info where i can obtain one, or have one to sell?

so in my k.kale.... 8mm mauser only. no js. wait. i went back and re-read. i can use js ammo. jesus i am stupid.

i was thinking of offering the guy 250 or maybe 300 at the most. i thought the same thing you guys did. i kept walking back to that rifle tho. i think 300 is the most i would go on that piece. everything looks great on it. just does not fire. something is wrong with the bolt because it does not move from one side to the other (safe-fire).

need to know.... what is the difference in 8x57js and 8mm mauser ammo? can i shoot js thru a 8mm mauser? is it the same? am i just stupid? it definitly looks different. i dunno! help a new guy out. thanks jeffturk.

i was poking around a shop the other day and came across a 6.5 japanese. price was $450. NOT WORKING CONDITION. or as the shop owner said, a "parts gun". damn pricy for a parts gun. it did have a mannlicher style stock. which i am actually kinda digging. any ideas if this parts gun would be worth grabbing? actually i think, i want this gun. help!

i will swing by there again and get a better look at it for that info. i belive its a type 38. not really sure why it is not operational.

wow! did i stump the masses?

i was poking around a shop and came across a 6.5 with a mannlicher style stock. not in working condition, and i am VERY interested in this rifle. there was a $$ amount on it and not sure what it is really worth. any ideas? seemed a little high for a non-working rifle. bolt opens and closes. barrel looks clean in and out. safety does not operate. i am thinking that might be part of the problem. any info would be appreciated and welcomed. THANKS JeffTurk

DAMN them. lol. oh well.

absolutly incredible looking. like it, alot! question....will a k.kale turk fit into a yugo M48 stock?

Damn dude. that looks AWESOME. like the stock, very nice. where'd ya get it?

hey guys. i got another barrel for my 8mm. i removed the front and rear sights from it. i am doing some work to this barrel and do not want the sights. i did unfortunatly break the rear sight spring. does anyone want the other parts? i will not be wanting/using them. let me know if you want. first come first serve. sorry i posted this 2x. my opologies. JT

hey guys. i got another barrel (8mm Turk $20.00) and am getting ready to separate the old one from my reciever and thread on the new one. i took off the front and rear sight and was wondering if anyone wanted them. i did break the rear sight spring but i thik all else is fine. let me know. first come first serve, i guess you pay ship. ??

i am not really into re-loading. can i buy otc 8mm-06 ammo? is it readily available? if so. will i need to do something with the magazine? just tring to figue out all this. i think i am just going to have the breech end of the barrel cut down a few thousandths and go from there. thanks for all the information and input. gonna try this first then go from there. thanks again and if there is anything else you guys want to let me know. i appreciate it ALOT. Jeff

i put the bolt and everything back together. i ran the bolt into place and backed it out slowly. i did not notice any forward then rearward motion with the bolt at all. it seems to be moving as smooth as silk. tell me more about this "rechambering" idea. do i need to do anything with the magazine or follower? not thinking i do.

i am liking the rechambering idea. looks to be money saving. i will not need to have the barrel set back or even take it off. correct? all i need is a reamer and a go gauge to do that, right? i will check the lug issue mentioned, but i do not recall noticing that at all.

thanks guys. i am not using the original sights, the barrel has been cut down 10" from its original length. i will check for that lug issue for sure now that i know about it. thanks again.

that sounds like a plan to me. thanks to you and all the others that have been helping with the info.

if/when i take this barrel off and have it trimmed down. how much do you think i should take off? the difference of the "go" and "no-go" gauges to start? that makes sense to me. like .006 (the difference of the 2 gauges)? or should i go .010? and run a reamer thru it.

it actually closes fairly easy on the "NO-GO" gauge. i am not forcing it at all. even with a field gauge how do you know there is not even more head space than that? have you guys seen an exact headspace gauge? i saw one that a guy made with an old shell cut down and a brass brush epoxied in the end where the primer goes and the other end slipped over the brush. this way you can measure exact space. i think that if a no-go gauge goes in that is good enough for me that i need to do something with it. am i too picky? being over-safe? why does my "GO" gauge say 8x47 1.8743 and my "NO-GO" says 8X57 1.880? 8X47??? sound right? i think i am paronoid about this head space thing. thanks for all the answers you guys! http://www.gswagner.com/headspacegage/headspacegage.html

i got my head space gauges today. the "GO" gauge goes in and closes. BUT.... so does the "NO GO". i do have the bolt completly stripped tho. does that make any difference? i do not think it does. i do not have a "FIELD GAUGE". even tho my "NO GO" gauge locks in, do i really need a "FIELD GAUGE". "NO GO" means exactily that, right? NO GO!

hey! so..... ok, i cleaned the barrel. i can see rifiling in it. dark and shiny. should it be all shiny? rifiling goes from the breech to the muzzle. one spiral is dark and the other shiny. is this ok?