ghost95

Thanks for the replys. I think the receivver is like the one in the link so maybe I should get it. I just got 4 receivers and bolts back from heat treating so I have projects a plenty now. Hmmmmm. Thanks again. C-

I need another project like I need a hole in the head but...I have a chance to buy a stripped 98 commercial Parker Hale receiver from a friend. It;s drilled and tapped so there wouldn't be too much to do to get it ready for a barrel. Question...Has anyone built one of these receivers? I think they were fore sale at Numerich a while back. This is not the casting or 80% finished receiver but appears to be a receiver that was stripped after being built. Thanks for all your info. C-

Thanks for the reply. Hopefully they won't be too bad. I'd like to get started on the barreling and stock work soon. First up is a bull barrel .308. Wish me luck. C-

Hello all. I have a question. I'm about to get 4 mauser receivers back that I had heat treated and I was wondering what I could expext as far as finish on them. Will they have scale on them or anything left over from the heat treating process or will the finish be the same as when I shipped it off? Thanks for the info. C-

Thanks, when I get home Ill measure the Wheeler handle I have to see if the Brownell's heads will fit. Thanks again. C-

Thanks, I looked there but must have missed them. I'll check again. I was mainly concerned about the hole spacing.

Is this the build from your previous post with an Adams and Bennett barrel? I hope it is because I'm working on an almost identical rifle. Hoping for the same good results. Did you blueprint this action? Great Job! Thanks, C-

Thanks again. They all sound good. Maybe I need more than 4 actions to work on.

I know the 6.5 x 55 has a different size case head. I think it's a little bigger than the 8mm. Will the bolt faces need to be opened up or is the difference so small it doesn't really matter? Thanks again for the input.

I have been bored and have had time to think up all kinds of questions. So, do you think or have any of you ever heard of someone using Cerrobend to fill the spaces around the reciever ring in an action wrench instead of lead shims? Do you think it would hold? Just curious. Thanks.

I thought about some of those but I thought I had to shape the receiver to get them to to fit with the bullets. I was trying to not have to do anymore shaping on the receiver. I guess I'll have to measure and see if I have to do anything else. Thanks again. If those work out It will open up a whole new world of possibilities.

Hello all, I have a question I hope you can help me with. I have a wheeler action wrench, the one with the v cut in the head and 2 bolts that secure it to the handle. What I was wondering if I could use a Brownells action wrench head on the Wheeler handle. anybody know if they are interchangable? Thanks, C-

.250 Savage 6MM Benchrest Remington Interesting, thanks. I don't know much about either but have always heard whispers around the range about them being accurate and fun.

Hello all, I'm finally getting back to the projects I started a while back. I have 4 actions, all of them VV24's. The first one will be a bull barrel .308. The second one will probably be either a .260 Rem or a 6.5 x 55 for my dad. Im not sure which one of those to go with although I'm leaning toward the .260 because I can form brass from .308 The last two are unknowns. I'm not looking to go to a magnum calibut in these old actions even though I know some people do. I have thought about a 7mm-08 because I reload for that already too. Do you that have built rifles have a calibur that you are really happy with? Anything you would recomend? I'm in the fl. panhandle so no big, big game here. More paper than anything else but hunting is an option. Thanks for any input or ideas. C-

Are these off drill rifle receivers? Thanks.

Hello all. I've tried to contact people at this heat treat firm... http://www.pacmet.com/ a couple times without a reply. Is there anyone out there that has used them and can give me the name of the person I need to contact. Thanks C-

I heard this from an olf timer yesterday. He used to work at westinghouse or someplace like that. They had to dispose old mercury from some equipment in a drum. Anyway, he sais some of it somehow made it's way to his house. He would use it to remove lead from rifle and pistol barrels. He said that you just plug one end of the barrel and fill the bore full of mercury and let it sit over night. The next day when he pulled the plug the mercury would drain out and take the lead with it. He said the barrel was brilliantly clean. I know mercury bonds to gold, and lead is similar, it was used for centuries in mining and gold recovery. Do you think this really works on cleaning barrels? Anyone ever heard of this? Not looking to try this myself, just curious.

I'd always heard that drilling into the lug was a BAD idea. Without a safety 3rd lug I'd be even more concerned. Be ccareful what ever you do. Will be interesting to see.

Thanks for the replys. The pacific is the one I enquired to. Still waiting on a reply. As to the need to heat treat I'm pretty sure I need to get it done. I removed the crest and recontoured the receiver and removed the charging guide. I had the front of the receiver ring trued. The one that I am most concerned about is the bolt lappinng. The bolts were non matching and took quite a bit of lapping to get them into contact. I'm pretty sure I got through the case hardening on those.

Another question about heat treatingg firms. I contacted Blanchards and the price seemed high. One receiver for $75 and $25 for every piece there after with the bolt and receiver being seperate peices. Another post on here had listed someplace as only "pacific metallurgy". I've done a search but don't know which outfit they are talking about. Does anyone have a link for this place? Thanks.

Hello all. I have been working up a couple mausers for a while. I've had the faces trued, removed the crests, and drilled and tapped them all. I started lapping the lugs the other day and ran into an issue. There seem to be differences in the way the lug bearing surface in the receivers were cut. On two of the receivers I can only get the lugs lapped to just past the ejector cut out. That's probably 55% to 60%. There is no way, without setting that surface WAY back that I could get 80% contact. The other two lapped in fine. It just looks like the surface the bolt cams on was cut closer to 12 o'clock and that limits the aval. surface for contact when the bolt is closed. Have any of you ever run into this problem? The bolts are all cut to the same specs it appears to be the receivers that are different. Any Ideas? Thanks in advance.

I removed the remnants of the crests with a cupped grinding stone so I think the case hardening is gone. I used plenty of oil and a slower speed on the press but it still took a ton of pressure to get the bit to cut. The thing is that I cut the rest of the way through with a cheap Black and Decker bit. I don't understand what I did wrong. Any Ideas? I'm using a drill and tap jig with drill bushings. A slow RPM on the drill press and plenty of oil.

I've already used a cupped wheel to remove what was left of the Crest so that should have cleared the case hardening. I used plenty of oil and the bits were brand new. I had the press set to a slower RPM so I thought that should be right but I had to use a ton of pressure to get these bits to cut. I practiced on a receiver that I found a crack in so I haven't done any damage yet. After the issue with the bits I changed over to a Black and Decker bit and it cut fine. I'm not sure what went wrong with the first 2 bits. Any Ideas

Hello all, I am in the process of drilling and tapping a couple mauser receivers. I ordered some #31 drill bits from Midway for about $1.99 each and so far have not had any luck with them. They don't seem to cut very well. What is a good bit that I should be using for doing this work? Is there a supply for these bits that have a higher quality and better cutting edge? Thanks for pointing me in the right dirrection. C

Can anyone give me any info on what type of torque I should apply when instaling a barrel on a VZ-24? Thanks for your advice.