Clemson

Generally a 1/16 punch will drive that pin all the way through the slide. Clemson

Crowning requires that the barrel be mounted on the lathe. I don't have the correct 5C collet to hold the shank of this barrel, so I put a 5C 3-jaw chuck in the headstock and mounted the barrel in that. When coupled with the steady rest shown here, total runnout is less than 0.001" at the muzzle. I use a parting tool to cut the barrel off. Nice, clean cut: The recessed crown is cut with a miniature boring bar: Finished recessed crown. I cut the outside chamfer with a hand-held file. Clemson

Well, I got the chamber finished yesterday and also got the barrel cut and crowned to its final 20" length. Here are some photos of that process. This is the reamer and extension that allows me to cut the chamber with the barrel attached to the receiver. Bolt won't close on a Go gauge: Bolt closes after 7 turns of the reamer!: Bolt won't close on a N0-Go gauge. Chamber is now finished: Barrel must now be removed for crowning and polishing. This shows my Brownells action wrench with Remington heads on it. The Lower head has been modified with a notch cut to accomodate the lower lug on the Japanese Type 38 action. Barrel is now mounted in the barrel vise using homemade tapered blocks. Action is turned off the barrel. Clemson

Well, it is time for an update. I finally got around to recutting the breech. Not much to see, really, but the barreled action is now a 257 Roberts. Photos below show the action with barrel fitted and the Richards Microfit stock that I have for it. I am on no time table at all for finishing this project, but I do hope to get the chamber finish-reamed today. That will allow me to test fire and check the new chamber. I cut it close, but the bolt won't quite close on a Go gauge yet. More to come sometime! Clemson

I usually start with radiusing the bottom corner of the extractor claw. If that doesn't work, I have made a feed ramp extension that i weld into the front of the magazine box. That will normally require a shorter follower. You can get a Remington short action follower from Brownells. Clemson

Don, if you would be willing to travel to SC, I could use you as a guest lecturer for a couple of days! Very nice!! Bill

I like oil for walnut stocks, but with laminates the resin that bonds the layers seems seems to resist the oil. The polyurethanes coat the surface evenly.

Laminates are one place where I really like polyurethane finishes. The Minwax Wiping Poly is excellent for these stocks. Clemson

That oughta make some hogs very unhappy! Good job, man! Clemson

Overly energetic tightening of the screw on a Bold trigger will stretch the "ears" that are pinned to the action. I have seen it happen. In my opinion the Timneys are made better and of better materials. Not trying to be argumentative -- just stating my observations. Clemson

If you can't hit with the VZ24, it is probably time for a new barrel. Clemson

Fords down in Florida offers this service, but they are backed up on gun work. Deplating is not something the everyday gunsmith can do. It involves an electrolosis setup that uses some really nasty chemicals. Unless you are into it big time, you can't afford the cost of permitting and monitoring. Clemson

For a laminate I use Minwax Wiping Poly. I like the satin finish, but that is a personal taste thing. Clemson

If you are looking for light weight, that A&B barrel is not going to please you. They are a "heavy sporter" contour. The inexpensive Brownells barrels are lighter by a considerable margin. On the other hand, most of the A&B barrels that I have installed have shot quite well for my customers. Clemson

Useful tool, Ralph!! Clemson

Great job! Clemson

a. The AGA response is baloney. b. You didn't ask, but the model 95 action is not well-suited to the .243 cartridge from a strength standpoint, let alone the rail issues. You can likely help the feeding by grinding the lower quarter of the extractor claw away. Clemson

You are right, Tony! For a job that I don't care much about the final appearance, I do it myself using original Acraglas. Many of my customers just want the firearm functional -- not pretty. That is particularly true of hunting guns. If, however, I want a job where the repair is invisible, I turn to folks who do that particular task for a living. Clemson

Given that the break is clean, that stock can be repaired with what will be, for all practical purposes, an invisible mend that will be stronger than the original wood. You can Google up Gunstock Repair and get the names of some folks who specialize in that type of work. I have a stock at John Garvin's shop right now: http://www.gunstockshop.com/ Clemson

Do you prefer one-piece or two-piece mounts?

I have never had a bad Douglas barrel. The people are accomodating, the work is good, response time on even custom requests is very reasonable. If you go with a "finish turned and polished" barrel vs. a rough turned barrel (extra $10), you will get a very nice looking barrel with minimum work required to finish it out. Clemson

Well, I do owe the group an update. It isn't always pretty what happens in gunsmithing! When I test fired the .250 Savage barrel, I noted striations on the case. What I had thought was dirt in the chamber was actually chatter marks. I had never had a reamer chatter on me, and I did not feel this one chattering during the barreling process. You can see those striations in the chamber in the photos above, I just didn't look until I test fired the piece. It took me about 2 months to get the reamer reground by the manufacturer. It was a brand new reamer, and they reground it for free, but..... I had hoped to recut the chamber one thread deeper, and the Japanese action is 14 threads per inch, so that was pretty simple. Unfortunately the chatter did not clean up. Time for plan B. I ran a 257 Roberts reamer in to clean up the chamber. That worked, and the Type 38 action works fine for the 257 Roberts. Also, it is much easier to find ammunition for the Roberts than the .250 Savage. Unfortunately, I had to cut so deep to clean up the chamber, that in the end, I had to scrap the breeching and recut the threads altogether. Now I have to redo that setup for cutting the extractor and bolt nose grooves. I don't know when I will get around to it, but I need to do it so that I can get this gun finished and recover my investment! So the trials and tribulations of an off-the-wall class project continue! Amazingly enough, I am on tap to teach barrel fitting at the Gunsmithing School again beginning in August. I think I will use more conventional actions for the class this time around. I do have a Sako L461 action that needs a new, Stainless Steel barrel in .223. Hmmmmm Clemson

If you are serious about learning to use a lathe, you might consider signing up at the local Jr. College or Tech School for courses in Machine Tool Technology. You will have the use of the shop equipment while you learn. Clemson

Fun, ain't it! Now you gots the fever. No known cure. Clemson

For several reasons, I would avoid that barrel. 1. Model 98 Mausers are made to seat the barrel firmly against the Primary Torque Shoulder. That is the inner shoulder -- not the outer one where a lock ring would have to bear. 2. The barrel is stubby and heavy. I can't think of a good reason to have a heavy contour barrel less than 20" long. 3. Your 24/47 is safety breeched. You will need to have an extractor groove at a minimum. 4. "Flat Crown" is a euphemism for no crown at all. 5. $115. You can buy an A&B barrel for a good bit less, and generally they shoot great for hunting. 6. There is really not a "no gunsmithing" barrel. Clemson