Clemson

Actually, the $500 is not really out of line. It will cost the gunsmith around $200 to get a Douglas contoured blank in his hands once shipping from Brownells is factored in. Cutting square threads is a bit more complicated than doing the V threads on a Mauser, Remington, Winchester, etc. Barrel removal from a 1917 is notoriously difficult. I normally charge $175 or thereabouts to thread and fit a barrel to a Mauser. With square threads, cone breech, and an extractor cut, it would not unrealistic to look at $300 labor. Clemson

I agree -- scope 'em both. Clemson

These honestly shoot better than a $93 barrel should. http://www.midwayusa.com/product/150800/adams-and-bennett-barrel-blank-243-caliber-6mm-centerfire-f34-contour-1-in-10-twist-26-chrome-moly-in-the-white Threading, fitting, and chambering to a safety breeched action would cost around $250. Clemson

For $20 less you can get a Brownells wrench specific to a large ring Mauser. My experience with do-all devices is that they do nothing well. Clemson

Study the archives here and at Mauser Central. Clemson

If enough of you could make it to Greenwood, SC, I would be happy to have you out to my shop. We could also take a side trip to Piedmont Technical College to see the gunsmithing school there. It is about 10 minutes from the shop. Bill Jacobs aka "Clemson"

The Wheeler wrench should work OK, and with lead shims, the Tubb Barrel Vise may be fine, though on the lightweight side. The barrel vises like the Wheeler vise with wook blocks don't generally hold as tightly as you would like. For a lathe, there is really no good substitute for size. The small ones may not have the spindle hole size. I use a large lathe, but I am a professional gunsmith. The bigger the better for most work that I do! I have seen really good barrel work done on a 9" South Bend, but it had enough bed length to work the outboard end of the barrel in the steady rest. Optimum would be at least 40" bed length to allow space for a reamer between the tailstock and the barrel. Clemson

On a Mauser, rear entry wrenches like the Tubb are not effective with the really tight barrels that you are liable to encounter on military rifles. I would suggest that you look at a Brownells wrench and also their barrel vise. For what it is worth, there is a good deal of variance in dimensions between Mauser actions. That means that rebarreling without a lathe is a crapshoot, as more often than not you will have to shorten the tenon or push back the secondary recoil shoulder. You may be able to make a rifle that is safe to shoot, but making one as accurate as possible requires fitting that barrel, and that means you really need to have a lathe. Clemson

I finally got the stock in from Richards Microfit the end of January. It was ordered in Early October. I am debating whether to use the tang extension on the trigger guard or remove it. It would look cool, but the stock is really not made to use it. I'll try to make a few photos next week. Clemson

300 Savage will feed through most M98 actions with no modifications at all. Try it -- you'll like it! Clemson

Good question. I don't think trainers had mums, but maybe Riceone will see this and chime in. Clemson

If it makes you feel any better, a Mauser bent bolt will not clear a scope. It, too, will have to be forged or replaced by welding on a new handle. The bend is a reverse curve of what you actually need for scope clearance. Clemson

It is frequently done, Ralph. It requires a counterbore bit to clean up the holes after welding. Clemson

Excellent Info, Riceone! Clemson

For the two-year program at Piedmont Technical College, figure tuition at ~$6800; Books at ~600; Tools and Supplies (actions, project guns, barrels, etc. @ ~$1500. Could vary greatly depending on projects, additional courses, etc. South Carolina residents get a break from lottery funding which covers about half the tuition. Clemson

I'm afraid work has stopped for the Christmas break. Ho, Ho, Ho! Clemson

Rojelio has asked for the take off barrel. There is a pretty good likelihood that it will make up to his action and headspace just fine. Clemson

Your 24/47 and M48 actions are not well-suited to 30-06 or 300 Win Mag because of the length. They would work fine for .308 or even .22-250. Check J&G Sales for VZ24 rifles. Also Southern Ohio Guns. Mausers are drying up and getting more expensive. Buy now while there are a few available out there. Clemson

I actually find the Kuhnhausen book to be very useful -- certainly the best book on the subject available. Clemson

We are having some fun in the Japanese Rifle Forum sporterizing a Type 38. http://www.sporterizing.com/index.php?showtopic=9108 Clemson

Bolt handle and D&T will follow. Here are the updates from current work. The breeching is finally finished. This shot shows the breech coated with Dykem so we can scribe in the position of the extractor cuts. The barrel is put back onto the receiver for marking. Note the modification milled into the Brownells Remington Wrench to fit the lug on the Type 38 action: The scribe is used to mark the edges of the cut: Here is the setup for milling the extractor cuts. I use a rotary table clamped to the mill bed: The actual cut requires a wider top section than bottom section: This shows how the bolt with extractor fits into the cut: More to come as the project progresses! Clemson

Not much to see yet! Clemson

Barrel is fully chambered with the bolt nose cuts made. I have to make the extractor cuts next. Clemson

Right now, I am cutting, and they are taking notes. Clemson

Pix show the old barrel and the new one underway. The barrel is threaded 14 tpi, the recess for the bolt nose is cut, the chamber is cut to depth,. You can see the intricate cuts for the extractor and the nubs on the bolt nose. Those are next! Clemson