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Military Firearm Restoration Corner

Clemson

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Everything posted by Clemson

  1. A DWM 1909 action is a wonderful piece of machinery. If you are going to the trouble of restocking, redoing the metal work, new bolt handle, etc., use a new, commercial barrel on it and forget the surplus route. As has been mentioned, it costs the same (sometimes more) to install a surplus barrel as it would for a new barrel. For elk, a 30-06, 338-06, or 35 Whelen would be excellent. I love the 1909 actions. They are a true pleasure to work with. Clemson
  2. 6.5x55, 7x57, 8x57, or 9x57 Don't try to put high pressure cartridges into that action. Welcome to the forum! Clemson
  3. I was responding to the statement that Leupold intended a hole be drilled into a lug. Maybe I misread it. Clemson
  4. The Leupold one-piece base for Mauser 98 does NOT position the holes through the lug unless you elect to drill it that way. If properly positioned to put the rear of the two front holes just in front of the lug seat, the base will fit on the ring just fine. Clemson
  5. For what it's worth, the latest product supplement from Brownells shows a Timney trigger with side safety for the Mosin Nagant. Product number is 883-000-025. Retails for $95. Clemson
  6. That's a nice looking stock. For what it is worth, putting in a spacer between the pad and the stock will negatively affect the fit of the pad. If it were mine, I would skip the spacer, but then I am not a big fan of white line spacers anywhere on a rifle Good job all around! Clemson
  7. From my experience, the A&B would be preferable to a Remington take-off. I have done several both ways, and the Remingtons inevitably had a high degree of runnout. There was a reason that someone took the barrel off. That said, I have a nearly new 30-06 from a model 700 if you are interested. Clemson
  8. Loose the oak blocks and WD40. http://www.mausercentral.com/barrelremove.htm Good luck! Clemson
  9. That looks great, Don. Where did you end up making the cut? Clemson
  10. VERY nice! The deer better be ducking! Clemson
  11. That's lookin' real good! Clemson
  12. Something like a golf tee in the muzzle is not a bad idea. AlumaHyde II takes at least a week to cure. It sets up dry within a few hours, but it will be tender until it is fully cured. When it is set up, however, it is really good stuff. Good luck!! Clemson
  13. I dunno what I'm gonna do with 'em, Bob. Better to have 'em and not know than the other way around! Clemson
  14. I received a "bundle" of 1908 Brazilian Mausers in 7x57 last week from Century. They seem to be in relatively good shape without any deep pitting. Metal is discolored for sure. Overall, they look rough, and the condition was advertised as "good, cracked stock, dark bore." I expected about what I got, and that is OK. 4 rifles for $356. Once came with a cleaning rod. I think the stocks could be salvaged, too. I intend to use the DWM actions for sporters. Clemson
  15. This sounds like a vast, right wing conspiracy. What are we all doing with cleaning rods that won't fit the darn bores? There has to be a logical answer. Clemson
  16. The Powder Manufacturers publish loads for popular components. Go to, for instance, Alliantpowder.com and enter their "Reloader's Guide." Choose 12 gauge and 2 3/4 inch hulls of the type that you have available. A bit of navigation will give you recipes that list powder, primer, wad, etc. Choose one with relatively low pressure. Clemson
  17. I am a gunsmith -- not a collector. That said, I bought a nice Model 96 rifle this week. It is all matching except for the cleaning rod. The slotted end of the cleaning rod won't even start down the bore. It seems to be made for a larger caliber barrel. The rod itself measures 27 1/2 inches long. Every micrometer and caliper that I own is apparently back at the shop, so I can't give you the tip diameter. The rod correctly screws into the threads at the base of the hole. What is the proper length of rod for this gun, and where am I likely to be able to get a correct one? Clemson
  18. Heck, Bob, the 257 won't beat you up nearly as much as that 8x57!! Clemson
  19. This table is for RWS ammunition (which is not underloaded). In it, 8x57 compares favorably to 30-06. http://www.rws-munition.de/en/rifle_cartridges/ballistic_data.htm?navid=10 Clemson
  20. I have probably built more 25-06 on Mausers than any other caliber. They tend to be excellent, flat shooters. There is no problem with getting them to feed. Clemson
  21. I agree with RDM. Easy Off is lye, aka sodium hydroxide. It can destroy the fibers of the wood. I suggest that you forget about using oven cleaners to remove oil from wood if you have any notion of saving the stocks. There is not an easy way past elbow grease to do this job. An industrial strength cleaner, a bucket of mineral spirits, a stiff bristle brush, and a sunny afternoon on the back porch form the best way to go after a cosmolined rifle. Clemson
  22. Hi Vlad, When I fit a barrel to a Mauser action, I lean on the wrench pretty good without a cheater. There is apparently a 950 pound gorilla who worked in the Mauser factory installing barrels on military rifles. A bunch of those babies require the cheater AND the BFH to remove. You are correct, however, that a fairly minimal torque is adequate for a properly fitted barrel. Kuhnhausen says 65 to 75 foot pounds torque when fitting barrels to M98 actions. About 10 foot pounds more is required for small ring actions because they only have one shoulder to fit to. Here is what Jerry Kuhnhausen has to say: There is no set amount that a barrel must be rotated from hand tight to be considered tight enough. Final rotation can be as little as .100" with well fit barrels and receivers to as high as .130 with others...........Average final rotation distance is .125" The rotation distance that he is talking about is on the circumference of the barrel from the hand tight position to the final position. Since the circumference of a 1.2" sporter barrel is 3.77 inches, a 0.1 inch turn would move the barrel into the shoulders about .002 inches, which we usually refer to as "crush". You won't do that by hand, but it does not require bouncing on the wrench handle either. Clemson
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