ahoyza

Thanks guys I feel a little overwhelmed with info. Better too much than not enough! Yes it is uncocked, It is a cock on close, I just pulled it out of the rifle that way. It has an aftermarket safety, no 2nd position. I use the dime trick to assemble it cocked. This not the first handle. The old one broke off way low. If I can get the shroud to turn once more, is there a reason why It wouldnt work? Somewhere on this forum is a pic of my old handle, it got good comments. The site with the 93 handles says it can convert to a 95, what is that project like? What is a root? I appreciate all the help over the last few years. Dont worry about me too much, my Husqvarna blondie still shoots to boring perfection!

Thanks! Looks like i'm heading in the right direction. Mr.98K from your photos it looks like the shroud should cozy right up to the handle.

Does that sound about right? No I do not think the notch was changed at all. Should I take a gamble on taking it back to the smith or make it a diy for me? Thanks guys!

Hi,

Ahoyza here, It has been awhile . . . kids are keeping me busy. I would like to pick your brains again.

Problem: "click no boom", failure to fire. No dent on primer. Trigger works & releases.

Background: The old sporterized handle broke off. So I recently had a new bolt handle installed by a smith. It is very nice as you can see in the pic. However, now the gun won't fire. I tried handloads and factories: no boom. Never had any trouble with it before. I took it apart and all the guts look good.

Theory: I think the shroud may need to screw in one more turn. The firing pin does not extend past the bolt face when uncocked. There are gaps between the shroud and the mainstem of the bolt sleeve I don't remember. I point these out in the pics. The shroud will turn about 10 degrees past the stop where it sits now but that is it. Perhaps some welding is in the threads?

Do the pics look right to you or do you think I am right that it needs to go another turn? Any other advise?

This is my first deer rifle, shot 3 deer with it. I would hate to retire it, bein's she is only 122 years old.

You can see pics of this rifle on the forum

Thanks in advance for the comments!

Thanks all. Where would I find the 7mm thread?

Hi. I own, shoot, and hand load for both. I have always wondered about something: Why is the 7 so much whimpier?

My lee book shows psi topping out at 51k for 7mm but 56k for 8. Is it due to the weaker 93_96 actions? But wait, what about loading low because of the .318's? Does not the 8mm go back to the 1880's? Case capacity is the same. My question is merely one of curiousity, I always load low as it does not take much muzzle energy to kill a paper target or a whitetail in NY. Please chime in. --Ahoyza ps I watched the 8mm video below, it was good.

She shoots straight. Other than putting a new weaver on her Ive done nothing but shoot it. Very consistent no matter what heat or what I feed her. I think ive found my forever rifle. I did find a sight ladder for backup irons and sighted that in for close range.

Thanks guys! I GOT it off. Check out The Bow In The leaf Spring, very Strong.

Hi,

I got this is trade.

It is a late 40's Husqvarna 30-06. Mauser 98 action.

Looks like the previous owner was fond of oil. Great for the metal but not the wood.

Only thing missing is the graduated ramp that should be under the rear sight.

Anyone have any experience or comments on these?

I think the stock is artic birch

How do i get the ladder off? Ive read push leaf spring down and rearward. Wont budge. Pin came out easy. Ive read vz is harder to remove than reg. German 98.

Hi,

Well gee uhhh . . . I took my Mauser 95, with the beautiful boyds stock, hunting back in NY last week.

Shot a nice 100lber, fat doe. Evryone in camp got their deer this year!

Bad news: After butchering we all went back to the woods to try to fill our 2nd tag.

I was sleepy and knocked mauser out of the stand. 21 feet down, it nearly broke the stock in 2 on the pistol grip.

Don't feel bad Mr. 98K! Will post pics when I can. Any advice? I will write boyds but of course their warranty, translated into ahoyza english basically says, "We don't warantee stupid." I guess I have a new winter project, can't complain about that!

-Ahoyza

PS deer was taken with 154g hornady RN, and 33gr 4895. Went right down.

Hi,

Has anyone tried to continue using stripper clips after rebarreling to another caliber such as 30.06?

I noticed 4 fit nicely on a clip.

Thanks,

Ahoyza

Hi,

I'll take some pics of the other side as soon as I can. Sorry, I didn't even think about that.

Range report: Grouping simialr to before with the military bubba stock.

50 yds: 3/4" with 139g Flat nose & 9g bullseye

1" with 154g Round nose and 34g 4895

It was only a quick trip to the range & fired 2 groups. I was surprised how I was on paper and scope was only off by a few inches.

One off hand shot felt great. LOP is a bit longer. I doubt south americans in the late 1800's were as tall as me!

Next step: installing sling swivels and trying 175g round nose. Any Advise?

It appears you have to log in to see the pics. Other postings you don't. Anyone know why?

I would like to send my friends to this site to see my project. Thanks, ahoyza

It's ready to shoot. Enjoy the pics. It is a Boyds Prairie Hunter stock. Laminated. Nutmeg color. I followed the directions to a T, except I used rubbing polyurethane rather than spray. I highly recommend the Boyds, it came out much better than I even dreamed. The color is slightly darker than I expected but it is pretty. In letting was not too bad. Next step is the range, where I will be shooting 139G flat nose, in front of 9G bullsesye at about 1600 fps, just to start out. Knife in the pic is my new Buck Ranger with finger grooves, I just bought it today, I always wanted one, to go with the rifle to hunt this fall.

I'm now in the wet sanding stage, and boy oh boy is it shaping up nice!

Clemson, thanks for the tip the polyU is great!

I will post pics when I reassemble.

My goal is to get it huntable for a trip to NY for whitetail this fall.

I agree, go for it.

A 98 clone, is a clone. Not a mirror image, but close enough.

Most stocks for sale are just listed a "large ring mauser"

Some, more specifically say, "inletted for military barrell channel" That is likely the one you want.

Careful with the everclear.

-ahoyza

Yes, AZ I do have a lot of freebore, .10 to be exact, I seat them way out . . .

I appreciate all the tips, but what I really want to know is, what modern powder is closest to the smokeless of 1895?

Thanks,

ahoyza

Hi,

With your guyzez help I have figured out that the '95 Chilean likes round nose bullets, hating spitzers.

Go figure, it is what it was designed for.

With that bit of knowledge under my belt, a friend asked, "well I wonder what type of powder they designed it for?" So I said, "I may know just who to ask!" So what kind of powder did they use in the late 1890's? Which one today is the most similar?

I do know that it likes 4895, and 4350 is too slow. Anyone chime in?

Thanks, Ahoyza

Stock is off and sanding is underway. Yes, I'm going to use poly, satin finish.

I can't take the credit for the bolt handle, I bought it that way decades ago.

For a bubba-ized mauser, the bolt was the best part!

The laminate seems easy, almost too easy to sand.

Mauserman69, It has the lug it came with which is machined right with the front action screw.

Clemson, why do you prefer poly for laminates? I'm just starting standing, I still have time to decide what to use, I actually have a bottle of each on hand.

My garage stays in the 50's until May, someone said that may be too cold, but it is dry.

I'll take any hints I can get on finishing.

Thanks Guys

-Ahoyza

Sorry about my spellink.

She looks and feels better already. Inlettinf wasn't to bad.

A quick trip to the range proved that form and function are spot on.

Next step is sanding.

anyone have any adivice on laminates and tru oil. Hoe temp. sensitive is it?

Thanks, Ahoyza

(7x57 '95 Chilean, boyds laminate unfinished, cheap tasco scope)

Hi,

I dunno why the pics only show when you sign in, anyway sign in and you can see them.

Iv'e just about got the 95 chilean roughed into the boyd's stock.

Seems most people go from inletting to finishing, does anyone test fire an unfinished stock on a rifle to test functionality first?

-ahoyza

ps I answered my own question about the recoil lug. It's the recoil lug, which doubles as the front screw receiver.

Hi,

I have talked about my 95 chilean on this forum before, and you folks have offered gret advice to help me get it accurate. Now comes getting it comfy. I'm working on a boyds stock. Which part acts as a recoil lug?

Next project is to create a mauser scout using my vz-24 action and possibly the barrell. Man it is old but I LOVE that action! I want to keep the straight bolt and utilize stripper clips. At this point I can't hit JACK with that rifle, any ideas on an easy scope mount just to see what she will group? Later I plan to get an XS Clifton scout mount, or fabricate one from the rear sight sleeve.

Well I promised pics from some time so here goes:

Ooops, somehow I posted three times. I can't figure out how to delete the extra two. Please respond on this one if you want to.

Thanks,

ahoyza