tinkerfive

Yes Tony! The thanks go to you!!! Craig (Tinkerfive)

if memory serves.... It would start in the .7" range + or - of course I hope the 'ball park' answer was helpful. Tinker

Those are standard length 98 actions. The proper front base (or one piece) will have its rear hole well forward of the notch. Does that answer your question?

Mike I'd prefer that you send my reamer directly to the new coordinator,if that be Rod or we vote for someone else. At the moment it would seem to be Rod. If the others feel the same you can just make one shipment then. What say ye fellow members?? What would you prefer be done with your reamers and for that matter who do you want to co-ordinate? There have only been 4 member votes so far. If the member count is 40 do we need 21 votes for the same person or set a date and take the simple majority? Craig

I'll second that motion. Craig

Just to expand a bit on GunNutty's advice, so as not to hurt the collector value, you don't want to try to polish and make look more near to new removing patina. Removing actual dirt would be OK. You want to care for and preserve the existing condition. Even for repairs you would want to save the original broken parts and be extremely careful not to damage screws upon disassembly. Tinker

I hope that the photos help Tinker

A suggestion But first a hearty THANK YOU!!! to Mike for doing such a good job these last few years. Things are a little hot and heavy right now and for me the 'first come first served' aspect was a bit of an issue, so how about over the next few weeks anyone interested throw their hat into the ring and we members take a vote. We could let Tony decide any ties. Anyone else have a suggestion? Tinker

Well as a Co-op member I get the e-mails and have to express some confusion In the order that the mails came into my mailbox there was Mike asking if anyone wanted to take over, then Rob says that but for being a truck driver then Rod volunteers. Then the next mail is that Mike is handing off to Jonathan because he was the first to volunteer The next thing would be to voice some concern about this statement " I have a wonderful machine shop there & will be reestablishing my FFL to do part-time gunsmith work" with regard to a professional gunsmith having access to we hobbyist's reamers. When we borrow one from the Co-op we are to put a few $ in the kitty for resharpening. I make the assumption that Jonathan is a fine upstanding person but, I have to voice the concern too. Tinker

If you are looking at the one on E-bay, take note that it has a Morse taper on the drive end. The ad doesn't say weather it is a roughing or finish reamer but I'm making the assumption that it is a rougher because of the Morse taper drive. If it didn't go for too much I was going to bid on it because I can use it in my lathe. Without a lathe, you'd be hard pressed to make use of that reamer. I think that what you are looking for is a finish reamer.

the remote has probably been dropped and now there is an intermittent connection to the battery. If it works sometimes and sometimes not, you probably can't see the problem. If you can open the case and gently try moving the wires etc. while watching the LEDs you may get lucky and find the problem. Best of luck to you!

I'm having trouble picturing what you are talking about so I'll just throw out 2 ideas. 1. a retention lanyard that folds up with the spring and limits the upward travel of the follower. 2. guide tabs added to the follower that extend out past the follower such that it would be stopped by the bottom of the receiver.

top of mind would be 30-06 & 308 then there are 7mm, 243, 22-250. If you are looking for something less common that I think would be a fast sell, I'd suggest 25-06. I'm sure others will have suggestions. I'm just throwing out calibers that come to mind first on the assumption that top of mind would be most popular.

I built 2 7.62X39's on 03 Turk ( large ring intermediate ) actions. I'd guess that it would be similar. The feeding with the issue follower was iffy. I found a 'short cartridge' plastic follower with spring that made all the difference. I loaded up 5 rounds and cycled them through the action 4 times to convince myself. if you are looking for a potent light recoil cartridge you might consider the 7.62X39. I've already take a few deer with one of the 2 I built. Good luck which ever way you go. Tinker

I've got this receiver that was previously D&T'd, apparently by hand and get this for #4 screws. Using my jig the front holes were close enough that they cleaned up nicely when I re-D&T'd for standard #6-48 screws. The rear holes however were right of center and to the rear such that once the rears were re D&T'd there is no thread engagement from 3:00 to 6:00 because the holes now are egg shaped where the fat part of the egg is the #6 screw hole and the pointy part of the egg is where the #4 screws were. I have #8-40 taps. I'm kind of afraid that if I go ahead and replace the #6 holes with #8 holes that I still won't have thread engagement from 3:30 to 5:30. If I use a 1 piece 3 hole base am I OK as is with the #6 screws? Should I turn the 3 hole base into a 4 hole base and have 2 rear screws in egg shaped holes rather than 1 rear screw? Should I turn the 3 hole base into a 4 hole base AND drill the rear holes to #8 ? Looking forward to the wisdom that I know is here. Tinker

http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=268464286 Isn't this the outfit that didn't deliver on a bunch of 45acp conversion kits? Maybe I'm wrong but I thought that some member got burned dealing with Rineland.

I've used an air nozzle with a constant flow blowing inside the bolt

They should work for any 06 based case you may be using 25, 270, 30, 8MM, 338, 35W The usual thing about military gauges is that they tend to be more generous than SAMI. I think more so with the 'No-go' than the 'Go'. A military 'No-go' usually falls in between a SAMI 'No-go' and 'Field'. If you cut your chamber so that there is just the slightest drag with the 'Go' then you don't need to worry about the 'No-go'. Just be sure to clear your chamber of chips before you check. So tell us more about your project. What '06' based cartridge are you going with? Tinker

There are so many ways that you might go in standard calibers if you want to re-barrel. With a small ring receiver, I wouldn't think in terms of a magnum. What barrel length do you have now? Would cutting off 8" and re-crowning still give you 20-something inches? I think that 18.5" is minimum legal and the shorter the barrel the less the muzzle velocity and greater muzzle blast. Most of my hunting rifles fall in the 22" to 24" range. My tendency is to try to make the most of what I have in front of me then if that doesn't work out, then start changing parts. I have one or two wood stocks that I've obtained that had been bedded with a brown material and you have to look close to tell. So if you want to fill in the gap around the small ring receiver if you drop it into a large ring stock. Tinker

Hi all! It's been a while since I've written about what I've been doing. I got this gun back in Feb. from Gun Broker. The safety was one that I hadn't seen before, so that was my greatest motivation for buying this particular gun. There were brass screws through cracks in the stock so I knew that I was in for some stock REpair. How much REpair I didn't know. Once I got it, in addition to the gouge from the cocking piece I noticed that there was no place for my thumb and the grip felt too closed too. So I REshaped the grip area by REmoving 3/8" of the front of the bottom where your little finger goes and cut back the front of the comb so that I could get my thumb around. I also lowered the front of the comb by REshaping it down a 1/4" so that the cocking piece would clear. The front scope base screw hole was quite shallow so I REmoved the barrel and REdrilled and REtapped the hole. Then after I REassembeled the action I set about to REpair all the cracks in the stock. I first had it glued up with wood glue. I came back after the initial gluing to fill the brass screw holes with wood dowels. When driving in one of the dowels one of the glue joints opened up so I had to complete that split and start over again. I REmoved the wood glue with a wire brush which also REmoved a lot of wood so there were gaps. To glue it back together this time I turned to JB-Weld to fill the gaps. This left some noticeable grey streaks. The recoil lug was in 3 pieces so I intended to REinforce it with a steel cross bolt and bed the action with JB-Weld. The stock had to be REfinished anyway so stripped the remaining finish with a stripper that left the wood with a grey stain. So with grey streaks from the JB-Weld and grey stains from the stripper I chose the ebony stain. With the recoil lug area bedded then I had to bed the area between the trigger and rear action screw due to previous over-inletting. Now with the stock done and the action bedded I went to attach the scope so that I could take it to the range. The screws didn't tighten up. It was at this point that I realized that the existing screw holes were 8-40 and that shallow hole that I mentioned earlier now had a 6-48 bottom. So I had to order 8-40 taps because to this point I've only used 6-48. Guess what, when the set of 8-40 taps was delivered it had a taper and 2 plug taps instead of 1 each ( taper, plug , bottom ). Then I had to wait for them to send a 8-40 bottom tap because I didn't feel like either REmoving and REplacing the barrel or grinding down one of the plug taps to turn it into a bottom tap. So then finally with all the scope holes tapped to 8-40 I had to enlarge the screw holes in the bases. Thank goodness once I got to the range just 2 weeks before the season it grouped well. Oh I almost forgot I REmoved the old hard red recoil pad and REplaced it with a new black one. It also just occurred to me that you'd want to know that it is a GEW98 with a High Standard 30-06 Enfield barrel. Now that it has proven its' self all that remains is to REfinish the metal. I'm thinking something like black weapons-coat. The doe in the back of the trailer is my buddies. It took us 5 days of hunting to get these deer. I'll save my comment on the job that the Pennsylvania Game Commission is doing managing the deer heard for another time. Tinker.

There was a fellow in central Pa. (Steve? something) that had a number of simple but effective tools / fixtures that could easily be made. I can't find the link right now. before I graduated to another, I used his U-bolt and 'bedrail' receiver fixture. You can make a barrel vice with a combination of wood and steel. The 'meat' of it could be something like a nice hard oak / maple with the 1.5" hole drilled through it for the bushing. Saw a cut through the center of the cylinder then sandwich the wood with 1/8" or heavier steel plate as the 'bread'.

I used that follower and spring on my 7.62X39 03Turk and it works flawlessly without a block. With the 8MM follower feeding was 'iffy'. My 308 98 doesn't have a block either. So you might try it without the block first to see how it feeds.

I've pretty much stuck with 98 types. Just wondering because I see different ones for sale. how do 91, 93-94-95, vary / differ from 98? Thanks

Brenden I'm very sorry for the loss of your father, my condolences. Craig

"line gun" as in like the navy would shoot a line from one ship to another. I want to shoot a safety line up through the upper branches of a tree in order to climb the tree and do some limbing. So Id want to be able to shoot 100' up. Can these line guns be found or does anyone think that I might fabricate a propane powered 'potato-gun' like affair to do the job. I've built a potato gun before and know that hair spray could take a potato 100' up. If anyone has any insight or experience I'd love to hear it. I know that shooting a slug dragging a line would be way different than shooting a potato. I don't want to get as elaborate as the 'punkin chunkin' show just to get a line in a tree. I'd hope to make something shoulder fired from cheap common materials. Tinker