tinkerfive

If you'd happen to know someone that works around an angiography lab in a hospital, the catheters come in near perfect gun boxes.

I built a 25-06 with an A&B barrel. The first 4 rounds after break in you could cover with a nickel and there were 2 pair touching to make 2 figure 8's. T

Once you get the center screw out of the stock disk, my favorite way to remove the disk is with my air compressor and blow gun. Stick the blow gun into the screw hole and blow. At 120 PSI, I haven't had any stick yet. Tinker

Look at this discussion http://www.sporterizing.com/index.php?showtopic=8751&st=0&p=50141&fromsearch=1entry50141

Being a hobby gunsmith, when I find a gun that I'm interested in 9 times out of 10 I'm considering re-barreling anyway. Most of this comes Via Gunbroker where I can't inspect the gun. When it gets delivered I'll pull it apart clean and inspect it to see what I have to work with. It's rare to get a barrel that is clean and lightly oiled. More often that not they look like they haven't been cleaned in years and you can't tell if you have a 'tomato stake' or a 'one hole'r'. This puzzles the hell out of me. If I'm 'Joe-Blow' looking for a hunting rifle and I pick a gun up off of the rack and see all kinds of crud in the barrel, I'm going to put it right back into the rack. I got this gun the other day and after 3 patches soaked with Hopes#9 the barrel started to look like it hadn't seen very many bullets. The photo on Gunbroker had the price tag with what he was asking for when it was in the shop. I paid less than 1/2 of that. My point being that had this guy taken the time to clean the thing maybe he'd have gotten what he wanted for it and it wouldn't have sat around his shop so long that he got tired of looking at it and put it on Gunbroker. More often than not the bores look at least like they are worth a trip to the range after a good cleaning. I's rare to find one that looks worse cleaned than dirty. Are these shop owners just stupid and lazy or, do they really think that 'Joe Blow' is more likely to buy a dirty gun than a clean one? Happy with my purchase but puzzled Tinker

My eyes are far from great. Looks to me like the bullets are deeply seated and some necks are longer than the others. Is the one on the left a .270??? Tinker

Brenden First off my prayers are for your dads speedy recovery. I usually loath to give out anything that resembles medical advice. Since you are a member of the family, so to speak, I'm making an exception. I am NOT A DOCTOR. As a BMET I have picked up a few things and formed some opinions. At this moment the greatest worry I think is the pneumonia. A 20% Ejection Fraction without exertion or other stresses like pneumonia might be adequate to get by on if your dad were living the retired life style. Unfortunately this is a time of stress. There is a device called an Intra Aortic Balloon Pump that is all too often under utilized or applied too late. This is something for the hospitalized & confined to bed patient. It will take some of the stress off of the heart while at the same time improve circulation. It can be used from days to weeks to help at the time of greatest need. This device is best used proactively. Unfortunately too many doctors view it as a last ditch effort to put a patient on. My suggestion would be to speak with the doctor about it. If the doctor says anything that sounds like 'well if it comes to that', tell him that you'd prefer that it be used sooner than later before 'it comes to that'. Perhaps they'll say that it isn't appropriate and suggest something else. I's just that with a 20% EF it would seem that some sort of cardiac support may be called for. His blood pressures and cardiac output may not indicate a need for support. If they do it's my preference to take it sooner than later. Don't freak out that 'they have him hooked up to everything'. It's all temporary. The point is to do everything that can be done to get him out of the hospital vertical rather than horizontal. Craig

2667A442 At $7 is worth a shot, might clean things up enough. What the heck does "These guys have metric" have to do with the price of tea in China??? T

I often search for deals on tools on EBay and have seen 1&1/8X12tpi split dies around $35 a number of times. They aren't there all the time but if you can be patient. The other thing would be to do a Google search and find them. I found 1/4X22 taps that weren't from Brownell. If you don't have a split die holder to compress the die from 1&1/8 down to 1.1, it's going to be really hard to find a re-thread hex die in 1.1. If you think that you'll do this more than once, it might be worth while to buy the die holder too. I've used the split dies when the barrel shank is a hair too big. Another idea would be to have someone with a lathe chase the threads. When I was getting started,I found a local machine shop that re-threaded a Remington barrel to Mauser small shank .98X12 for just $20. Maybe you could go to your local machine shop with your barrel and receiver and when it screws on you are done. I hope one of these ideas is helpful T

8mm mauser, then the 7.62x54R nagant. For boar I wouldn't consider the others. From what I hear they are some tough animals. I'd also choose the heaviest bullets. Just my opinion, maybe some honest to goodness real life boar hunter will give you a response. T

a detachable magazine exists for the Mauser. I don't know of an adaptation to use a Remington magazine T

Pulling an idea off of the way back burner, I seem to recall that I looked into re-chambering to 308(.311)Norma Magnum. You might take a look at that and see if that could work for you. I'm sketchy on remembering this in detail, but I think that the over all length was close and that the magazine would only take minor mods. Hope you find something interesting to do with your MN, the Mausers are drying up. Tinker

I'd tend to agree with Wiley. Check your land diameter. If it's anything like .280, I'd think it enough to grip a .284. I'm thinking like Mr. Wiley that it is more of a bullet weight and twist rate issue than bullet diameter issue. Of course the 'charge' could be a major contributing factor too. Do you have a chronograph to compare the two? Tinker

Anyone know what if any significance the proof stamp is that kind of looks like 88 hand written? I think that it was on an 03 turk so I guess that the proof could actually be German. Tinker

My rule of thumb on creative bedding materials is that just about anything that sets up to be harder than walnut would be OK. Mix up a batch on a piece of scrap walnut and try something like pushing a screwdriver into both. If you leave less of an impression in the fiberglass than the walnut, you're probably good to go. If the screwdriver goes deeper in the fiberglass then you'd better re-think the deal. If you pre-stain the wood it might be OK. As suggested above, mix up a test batch and see how it looks. For sure the wood will NOT stain up the same once it has been mixed with anything like fiberglass or epoxy. Tinker

How about a banded sight up front? Might be able to cover everything up there at the front end. T

Just an FYI. I was on GB the other day and saw another 93 that was done in 1940. I think that they were fitting a bell on the front of those small rings to accept their upper hand-guard because they were setting them into the same basic stock as KKales. Man I thought that those Turks were nutzo for milling a lip into some of their contract German 98's. I can't understand why they thought all that metal work was a better choice than making the stock fit the gun rather than making the gun fit the stock. T

Well obviously most of my last post was wrong. I was right about the secondary torque shoulder but that's about it. So were both the 'shiny' part of the barrel and receiver both threaded with one dress ring covering them both or just the 'shiny' part of the receiver? Tinker

I think that I've figured out what he's done. Top arrow points to "secondary" torque shoulder. Bottom arrow points to the barrel threads that he's removed. The line in between would have been the 'thread relief'. He's taken the 'shiny' part down to the minor thread diameter around .88" I don't know 93 actions but, if someone before may have stuck a barrel from an 03 on there that might account for an added 'dress' ring that he's removed. The thread shank length for an 03 is in the neighborhood of .77". What is the nominal thread length for a 93? At 12 threads per inch, if a .77 barrel were screwed into a receiver with .5" of threads, he'd see around 2 threads sticking out from the face of the receiver. I hope y'all could follow that. Tinker

I've been watching them both. The Gold Rush comments so far are pretty much spot on. As to Flying Wild, I'm curious as to just how essential flying stuff around is to life in Alaska. They make it sound as if the no one can function without them. What did Alaska do before the bush-plane? There must be some alternatives in many cases. T

For Acts benefit... 1939 was the year that the rifle was converted to fire 8MM ammo. That is when the notch was cut at the rear of the ring so that 8mm ammo could be loaded via stripper clips. Please be advised that action does not employ some of the safety features of a 98 style. No safety lug on the bolt, no gas deflector on the shroud. Tinker

Can you post a photo of what you are referring to? If you are referring to the hand guard retainer ring, I've never seen one that was threaded. I'd like to see a photo. When sporterizing a Turk most of us will remove this ring by grinding, filing , mill or whatever. Only Turks have this ring, to my knowledge. As to the screw hole, if you had the 8MM reamer or the headspace were just the right amount of excessive you could set the shoulders back 1/24" ( = 1/2 turn ) and just turn the screw hole from the 12:00 position where you see it, to the 6:00 position where it is covered by the fore arm of the stock. Looking forward to the photo Tinker

Well I don't think that it's common. As to safe... I've heard that there has been some testing with the parent cartridge by over loading and they held together well. Now there was some problem with some that were converted to 30-06 because the barrel got too thin out at the shoulder and a few barrels separated at the shoulder location. Take note of how the MN barrel tapers down quickly forward of the chamber. For 7.62X54 the shoulder is 1.55 from the base. The shoulder for 30-06 is 1.948" from the base. I suggest we accept that 1.948 is the 'unsafe' reference. The shoulder for 284 is 1.7749 from the base. The 284 diameter at the shoulder is .4748". The previously stated as safe (another discussion) wall thickness is .25". What you need to do is figure out on the barrel where 1.7749" falls from the bolt face. Take the Outer Diameter of the barrel at that point. Subtract .4748 then divide by 2 for X. If X is greater than .25" it is likely OK. If X is less than .25 perhaps you should consider something else. 300 Winchester SHORT magnum, perhaps. Do the math with what ever you consider then decide. As the previously mentioned testing might suggest, why not just load the 7.62X54 until you get the desired results? It's not too uncommon that one might load a std cartridge to near magnum velocities. Hopefully someone with some actual experience in this area will weigh in. EDIT!!! When I said " I suggest we accept that 1.948 is the 'unsafe' reference." I hadn't counted in what I remembered later in that due to the larger base of the 7.62X54R the barrel would have been set back about .92". Therefore I think we need to add the two figures to get 2.868 as the unsafe reference for a barrel that hasn't been set back. Tinker

Well, just maybe your barrel is hardened. I threw a Turk barrel on the lathe a few months ago to make a mandrel out of so I was trying to turn the barrel OD down to the same as a bolt. The further I got from the muzzle and closer to the chamber the harder it was to cut. My HSS cutters were just giving up trying to cut that barrel. I had to switch to carbide to get anywhere. Turk ammo is known to run 'hot' with repeated firing and carbon fouling there could have been the conditions to have created some case hardening. I was just trying to cut the outside, you are trying to cut the inside. You know the 'ways' on my lathe are 'flame hardened'. I have various '06' reamers that I got when Winchester folded. I would only suggest using a lathe to keep things on center, not for hand use. It sounds like you are starting to get close anyway. Is the reamer still sharp? Can you unscrew the barrel? I might suggest that you could screw the barrel on with the GO gauge in the chamber until you LIGHTLY make contact with the closed bolt ( no extractor ). Then you can measure how far apart the barrel shoulder is from the receiver shoulder. If you can wait until you come up this way, maybe between Rod and I we can come up with something. I'm out of ideas for now! Craig

Well the one fellow was using the term 'Fugly'. I guess beauty or fuglyness is in the eye of the beholder. Of course I did like the Schnabel. The issue that I'd have with that would be that it would seem damn awkward to hold. I've reshaped a number of grips so far to suit my hand position. I just don't think that would feel comfortable at all in hand. I kind of liked the forearm with the Schnabel. If one were looking to loose wood weight you could do that to the front then to the butt, there was someone a few years back that cut a window out of the butt-stock. that was interesting. You could have minimal wood weight and still have a 'normal' grip. Hmmmmm! Didn't I do one of those butt-stocks with the window in it??? I guess that I need to go look for that thing. Tinker