tinkerfive

Jason Are you thinking of something like a Manlicker style? If you are trying to loose some wood bulk, how about taking it off of the bottom and making a Schnabel at the nose? I'm working on an 03-A3 project myself right now. Give me a call some time. If you lost my #,give me a PM. Craig

Your interests say that you reload. So as to where to start.... A. Check the head-space and otherwise inspect the rifle. B. Load up some .311-06. C. See how she shoots before you go swapping barrels around. 724wd brings up a good point to the costs involved. How much are you able to do yourself which only costs your time Vs. paying a pro to do? If it already shoots MOA or better, lapping & truing etc. isn't going to gain you much. A truly clean bore and good bed job will usually do more than anything else to gain you accuracy. Jeweling is for you, the game won't care. Just a few thoughts. Enjoy your new rifle! Tinker

Exactly! I also said "This Leopold base is the first that I've encountered that can't be slid forward to drill the Front-rear screw forward of the locking lug." I had a phone conversation on this with Tanglewood the other night. The short version of what we came to was that as long as you drill clearly in front of or behind the FACE of the locking lug you are probably OK. Probably the further to the rear the better if you are going to drill into the lug at all. In fact Leopold had the screw hole just about as far back as you could drill a complete hole without making a "C". Thanks for the input. Tinker

I've got an 03-A3 project on my bench and the Leopold base I ordered arrived today. I also have the weaver style bases and am trying to decide which way to go. When I set the Leopold base on, the Front-rear screw barely clears the rear of the ring. If it were on a Columbian Mauser modified for stripper clips the screw would be in air. So here is where the discussion comes in. If the Columbian's can notch behind the upper locking lug for 30-06 and Leopold clearly intends to drill a hole in the upper locking lug; why have we had so much discussion about upper locking lugs being sacred when it comes to drilling holes for mounting scopes? The Columbian's notched Mausers by the thousands for 30-06. The Turks notched small rings and 03's for 8X57 by the thousands too. Leopold surely must have determined that the screw placement must be safe. I've passed on a number of guns that had scope base screws in the rear locking lug because I've been taught that the gunsmith 'didn't know what he was doing' by drilling a screw hole there. This Leopold base is the first that I've encountered that can't be slid forward to drill the Front-rear screw forward of the locking lug. So as long as I can miss drilling into the face of the locking lug, is actually OK to drill a hole into the locking lug? A little confused. Tinker

Just wondering if a 7.7 Jap can be re-chambered to something .308 like a 308 win or 30-06? I don't know the case dimensions of the 7.7. I think that it is a .311 bore but wondering if the rifling is tall enough to grab a .308 bullet. I know that re-chambering a 7.65 Argentine to 30-06 is iffy. I was just wondering if it would be the same kind of thing with the 7.7 Jap. Is the chamber area of the barrel long enough or the magazine for that matter for 30-06? Could re-chambering one of these Japs to 308 Win make it a handy 'truck' type gun for us here in the U.S. of A.? As always. Thanks for your input! Tinker

Guys I know a guy from work that had a stroke about 4 years ago. Although we were never close friends I think highly of the guy. The following meant in total irony, it couldn't have happened to a nicer guy. Anyhow! I bumped into him the other day along with another fellow and we got to talking about deer hunting. As I walked away I got to wondering about the mechanics of how he would aim and shoot a rifle. I'm in over my head right now and couldn't possibly do anything for him before the opening day in 2 weeks. I was wondering if there might be something I could do for him by next season. I hadn't asked if he has a bolt or lever or pump gun. I was just wondering if anyone here knows anything about handicapped firearm modifications. He has basically no use of his right arm and I don't know about his eye. His face does seem a bit droopy on the right side. Looking forward to any input. Thanks Tinker

I met a guy a few weeks ago that casts lead bushings. It would be a perfect fit every time if you can figure out how to do that. Here is my tip on loosening tight barrels. I put the 3' cheater on my barrel vice and lean on it as much as I can with one hand and with the other I whack the cheater between me and the barrel with a 3# hammer as hard as I can. The shock wave on top of the applied torque usually cracks them open. Best of luck Tinker

I'm thinking patriotic You've got the red one. Paint the new one blue and keep an eye out for a white one. T

Happy birthday there Rod!! Craig

Here is more http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=183850103

http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=184142614 and a spring http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=184176521 Good luck!!! Tinker

Hey all! Roscodoh paid me a visit yesterday so I pulled one of my recent acquisitions out that until yesterday hadn't yet been fired. I had bedded and bore sighted the gun. It came drilled for bases. I just had to mount a scope. He fired 3 shot groups. We adjusted the windage and, never touched the elevation. The last group was this; one 1" high of Point Of Aim, one 1" left of POA, one 1" right of POA. SO! The gun shoots within 1" of where you aim it and the resulting pattern is 2" across. Is this a 1 or 2 MOA gun????????????????????? I've never had it explained to me in a way that I truly understood and the way that this gun shot just happened to be about the best example that I could use to understand. Tinker P.S. Thanks Jason, two days after a root canal there was no way I was laying my cheek up against a 30-06!

I'll just offer this for consideration. Columbia modified Mausers from 7MM to 30-06 to use stripper clips by taking a "U" shaped chunk out of the back of the ring at 12:00 which is just behind the upper lug. They did this mod by the thousands and I haven't heard of any failing. Do you think that a screw hole would be any worse to the structural integrity than removing a "U" shaped chunk from the back of the ring? Food for thought. Tinker

You need to see this http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=178607997 If you want it, I won't bid against you. I'll check here before I bid. I'd rather have it than some schmoe that I have no connection to. If this is something that you've been wanting for a while, I'd rather you have it. If you're bidding, I hope you win. If you're not bidding, wish me luck. Tinker

Just from my causal observation as I check Gunbroker for other parts, I'd say that you could put $100 into it and still be within the market value, especially with an intact mum. Tinker

I've heard that Z1r has been building 9X68's on other 98 actions so I presume that an 8X68 can be done. 8-06 ( 8X63 ) would be easier. The action was designed for 8X57 so you have do do at least some work to get the 8-06 to work. 8X68 is 11MM longer than the original chambering Vs 6MM longer of the 8-06. Reaming out a 7X57 military barrel to 8-06 (8X63) has generally been considered safe in that I've not heard anyone speak out against that practice. Now reaming out an 8X57 barrel to 8X68 is something that I've just not heard of anyone else doing before. Just check to see what the wall thickness is near the shoulder if it were to be deepened by 11MM. Prior discussions have set .25" as a safe wall thickness to be maintained. This is where I feel uncomfortable with a magnum on a Turk that has .98 OD barrel threads. The minor diameter is .88. Now most magnum case diameters are near .5 + (2X.25 wall thickness)= 1". So 1-.88= .12 which means that the wall thickness is .06" shy. Now some will tell you that what I just presented doesn't count because the barrel threads are backed up by the receiver threads. It's your hands and face, you decide how much solid metal you feel safe with between you and a 60,000PSI explosion. Oh! and that 29" barrel would be great to burn all that extra powder in. With the right loading I'd think that you'd be approaching similar velocities from an 8-06 as a magnum with a 24" barrel. Best of luck with your project. Keep us informed. One day I've got my own 8-06 Turk to do. Tinker

It has 6 lands and grooves, just got it so I haven't shot it yet. I'll bet it's just a more modern rifeling process than I'm used to seeing. Now if it were Polygonal, I think that I would have recognized that.

Hey all, I just got a Mauser with a sporter 30-06 barrel. The rifeling looks in perfect condition. The shape of the lands is something that I've never seen before. Rather than flat across the top of the land there seems to be a dip giving the land an over all "U" shape, or kind of like looking down RR tracks. The proof stamp sort of looks like a pair of scissors with one of the loops missing. I'm thinking that it should be a combination of the possible letters K,X,P. Anyone have a clue about this? Tinker

Well it's really a moot point now. That gun was sold and I have since found another that looks like it is probably in better condition ( it certainly looks better in the pictures ) for just a few dollars more. Just sent the payment yesterday, can't wait till it gets here. T

If someone knows why they won't sell to a C&R holder??? I saw a gun that I was interested in on Gunbroker. It turns out to be a consignment for a police dept. Per the dealer, due to Texas law, because it is a confiscated gun being sold , they are not permitted to accept a C&R. Tinker

You mean like half the guys on here (including you) that know more than I do? Hey, one day maybe I'll be the one with most of the answers but, today I wouldn't claim to have more than some of the answers. T

Welcome to the club. Tinker's mantra "Tis better to have and not need than to need and not have". T

I don't think that I could say it better. Condolences to you. Craig

I had a similar issue recently with an on board network card. The on board card needed to be disabled. Nice trick to disable the video card when you can't see what you are doing. Sounds like you may have an intermittent problem. If you are lucky it is thermal. I'd suggest that you leave the new video card in then put the computer in the refrigerator or turn the air conditioning down and put it in front of the vent. If you put it in the fridge, hopefully you would have time to pull it out and hook it up boot up etc and still be able to disable the on board video card before it craps out. Good luck! T

Well Jason if you were trying to pick a single trophy out I'd agree. However the idea is to thin out a pack. You want the capacity to take out a half dozen or so at a time if you get the opportunity. T