odies dad

275 horse 327 4 barrel with an RV cam and Powerglide. I have a bunch of the original hub caps, but the original tires look too narrow in the wheel wells. I am looking at getting a new set of American Racing Torque Thrust D wheels and moving up to 15". I need to get a new top for it before I do anything.

Got the 64 out today. I picked up a used battery for it a few months ago. Put it in and it started right up after sitting all winter. Wiped down some of the dust and took the kids for a spin. Enjoy.

A couple weeks ago, I stopped in at the pawn shop. The owner had a project for me to work on. He had a Remington 572 Fieldmaster pump 22 that someone had started taking apart and did it wrong. Lost the metal clips that hold the forearm to the loading tube. It was also really gummy, but I saw that it had some potential. I asked him how much room I had on it for fixing it. He said he only had $100 into it, so it should be good. As he was looking for a case for it, I decided to make him an offer on it. I told him I would give him $100 for it as is and he could keep the Norinco 4x scope and see through rings. He said that sounded like a fine idea. I ordered the obvious parts for it and then tore it apart to clean it. I also redid the scruffy stock. As I took the trigger group out, a piece of metal fell out. I couldn't see where it came from, so I did a complete tear down on it. Turns out it was the back part of the firing pin. I ordered one of those as well and got it today. Got it all put back together and tried it out today. Sweetheart! Popped off 15 rounds without a hitch. Got another project in the works as well. Putting together a Turkington 270. Turk Mauser receiver with a Remington takeoff barrel in 270, Boyds featherweight thumbhole stock.

Range report Got a chance to get some fodder loaded and shot today. I am using 139gr Hornaday BTSP over 56.9gr of IMR 4831. Seemed to shoot very well at 50 yards. Had holes touching once I got it sighted in. Had a little trouble feeding. I relieved a bit off the lower tip of the extractor and now it feeds fine. I loaded up another 20 rounds tonight for some future shooting.

I don't really trust my machining skills. I can get an A&B barrel that is short chambered and pre threaded for about the same as a blank, and I have never done a full chamber on a lathe. One of these days I will get brave and try it.

Something else to remember is to put the trigger back in before you bolt the stock on or you will have to tear it apart again. You'd think I would remember to do that after all the times I have had to redo them.

Next you put all the pieces back together. I added an Intensity 4-12 scope. I have not had a chance to shoot it yet. I will post a range report later. Thanks to Rod (Tanglewood) for the reamer and for the bolt work. He does a great job. There were too many pictures to post this all in one shot.

I installed a Timney trigger and a Dayton Traiser Mark II safety. Pardon the terrible picture. The safety needs to have a small slit cut into the bolt shroud. Easy work with a Dremmel. I ordered a Boyds Prairie Hunter walnut stock and opted for the laser cut checkering. This is their #2 pattern. I really like how the stock looks. The action fit great . I had to notch out for the bolt handle. As I was fitting the bolt handle, I decided that the handle I had on it looked a little short, so I swapped it with another one I had. Both rifles look better this way. Next comes setting the headspace. This is usually the scariest part. I pulled everything apart again except the barrel and mounted it in my action wrench to hold it barrel down. I stripped the bolt and inserted the GO gauge to see what I was starting with. This is how far the bolt would close. After reaming. To set the head space, turn the reamer a few times, flush and swab out the chamber, inspect with a bore light and retry the GO gauge. Repeat adnauseum until the bolt just closes on the go gauge. Next try it with the NO GO gauge Perfect. The bolt will not close on the NO GO gauge. If it does, you will need to set the barrel back a little until it does not close. It doesn’t take much to go from not enough to too much. Just do a couple turns when you get close to the end.

As promised, I have put together a bit of a tutorial on how to build a Mauser sporter. The action started as a broken stock missing parts barreled VZ24 receiver from IIRC Centerfire systems when they had them really cheap a few years back. The barrel looked like a shotgun bore. After piecing together other components, this is the action I started with. I had a different barrel and stock on this receiver before, but decided to rebuild it. You can see some of the previous modifications. I like to checker the bolt release. I had 3 scope holes D&T’d. I opted for Weaver bases on this build so I drilled and tapped another hole. This is the Wheeler jig set up. This shows how the bushings hold the tap true. There is a different bushing for drilling the hole that works much the same. The jig will locate the holes in the proper spot for standard bases. I got an Adams and Bennett F34 280 short chambered barrel from Midway. I used my lathe to polish it up. If you don’t mind more of a satin finish, you can use them as is. Next I blued the barrel. I found that spinning it on the lathe helps some with streaking. I just use cold bluing for this. I have tried several types, but I have had the best luck with the Birchwood Casey paste. Here is what it looks like screwed onto the receiver.

It is surprizing that there are areas on this planet that are so inhospitable that something the size of an airplane could be sitting around for 70 years and not be run across by some kid out wandering around. I can't imagine what the pilot went through making the decision to try to walk out. May he rest in peace.

She probably wants pink because she knows you will want to "borrow" it all the time if it is not pink.

I got the stock from Boyds today. Beautiful! I really like the checkering. I cut out for the bolt handle and drilled out for the stock ferrule. Looks pretty good so far. I decided to swap out the bolt for a different one. The one I had in it was looking kinda stubby, so I traded for a longer one. Looks good to me. Unfortunately, the bolt shrouds wouldn't swap. I found this out a while ago. I think it is just tolerance differences. I have one that fits but is set up with a Beuhler type safety rather than the Dayton Traiser Mark 2. I may put the Beuhler handle on this one just for fun. I'm still taking pictures and will post the whole process when I am done. Next step is reaming the chamber.

http://www.boydsgunstocks.com/ENGRAVED-PH-CHKG-PAT-2-p/120-041.htm This is the one I ordered. They have a few different styles.

I am getting started on a new project. I am building a 280Rem/7MM Remington Express on a VZ24. I am trying to take pictures as I go to do sort of a tutorial on building a Mauser sporter. I got the A&B barrel polished up and blued. Got a safety installed. I had an original Beuhler safety I was going to put on it, but the little screw that holds the handle on twisted off on me. So I installed a Dayton Traiser MK2 safety I had. The stock is on its way. I ordered a Boyds Prairie Hunter in walnut with the laser cut checkering. I still need to order a trigger for it. I forgot to do that when I ordered the stock. I will post some pictures of the whole project when I get it done.

Put 22" chrome spinner wheels and an air bag kit and a boomer stereo in it. Insure it heavily and drive it into the "hood".

The hardest part of installing the Beuhler type safeties is finding that little spring after you launch it across the shop.

Make sure you use the ferrule in the rear stock bolt hole. That may be why the screw was too long. You will need to remove the one from the military stock or replace it with a 1/4" tubing cut to the proper length.

Midway has the safeties a little cheaper IIRC. Not sure about protrusion, but I think it is supposed to be around .055 or so. Someone else will likely chime in on that one.

Timney makes a Beuhler type safety that works very well and is easy to install. I prefer the triggers without the safety and using a safety that actually blocks the firing pin like the Beuhler. You might want to consider going with a 6mm Rem rather than the 243. Slightly better ballistics and since it is based on the 7x57 Mauser case, feeding issues are nearly eliminated. To get the firing pin apart, assuming you got it out of the bolt, find something with a hole in it that you can push the firing pin tip into to release spring pressure from the cocking piece by pushing on the bolt shroud. Once you get the pressure off, you should be able to turn the cocking piece 90 degrees and take it off the firing pin. If it is tight, open the jaws on your vise so the flat part toward the tip of the firing pin will fit and not turn. Take a crescent wrench and turn the cocking piece off with that. Hang onto the bolt shroud or you will have pieces flying all over the place. Gently release the spring pressure and remove the bolt shroud and spring.

IIRC the Siamese mausers had the firing pin indexed 90 degrees off what a regular 98 pin was.

A white vehicle was involved so obviously it was a racially motivated incident.

I did one for $30, but it isn't quite as nice as yours. I like cheap builds.

I recently received the model 98 30-40 Krag that my grandfather carried up San Juan hill when he was with the Rough Riders. Teddy himself gave this rifle to my grandfather as thanks for saving his life. I wanted to make something I can carry a bit easier so I shortened the barrel to 20" and put it in a Ramline synthetic stock. I drilled and tapped the receiver for a set of see through bases I had, but now the shells won't eject from under the scope. How can I modify the ejector to kick the shells out the side more?

Finally got out to do some shooting today before it got too windy. I picked up a new to me Remington 700 ADL in 243 that I converted over to a wood stocked BDL. I also took out the Model 7 243 that Liam will use for deer season this year and the 7x57 mauser. Open sights on the Mauser and the 700 at 25 yards, both did very well. The 7x57 didn't group quite as tight as the 243's but adequate. I need to find a scope for the 700. The rear sight on the Mauser worked out OK. My laser bore sighter let me down again. The slide is at the top end of the scale so it should be OK as is.

The front sight base came with the barrel. I have a short bead on it. The rear sight is a Williams WGOS with the U notch. I can get a taller blade for it, but I don't have one handy. I think the 3/8 would be about right. What is there is about half way off the dovetail to get it lined up where it needs to be. I have a couple Remington factory and Truglo rear sights but the holes don't line up right. The longer rear base hits the rear step in the barrel by about 1/8". Wouldn't look right cut off. I have a hood on the front sight. Kinda works like a peep system of sorts. Just for fit, I'd rather replace the rear sight blade than shorten the front one. The sights fall in quite nice when I pull it up. Does anyone make replacement fiberoptic inserts for the Truglo front sights? I have a couple sets with the front fiberoptic broken out. The rest of the set is fine.