Gun

I did a search on this topic here and on google but come up empty handed.

Any help?

www.markskaggsgunsmithing.com

This might be old news to some of you here but it's new to me.

I did business with these folks for years and was always satisfied and treated great. Hate to see them go and for the reason their gone.

Just google samco global

I removed the barrel on a 1905 LSA last night. Boy was that thing ever tight.

Monday, 7-27-15, I hope to have the barrel boxed up and on the way to J.E.S.

ken98k how is the suspension change on your FXSTC working for you?

Thanks fellows!

Well off to the back burner with the Mosin for now then.

Good looking bike. And looks like a well done job, well after you apply that locktite

I was stationed at Fort Wainwright back in the early 1980's.

I do miss Alaska!

Ken, Dr.Hess is spot on with the Evo. In my opinion the Evo/Blockhead was the best big twin engine Harley had. Only reason I do not own one is that I just enjoy the Shovel so much.

If your Evo starts to leak around the base gaskets there is an after market fix for that with gaskets and a press in jet. And check your alt./regulator rectifier plug in to make sure it fits snug to tight. A loose connection seems to cause the alt or the reg./rec. to go out Those are the only things I am aware of in the area of troubles. Dr.Hess you find or know of anything else?

Dr.Hess check out page 3-24 in the 1978 1/2 to 1984 FL/FX Models 1200/1340 4-Speed factory manual.

79 FHL POS. They made them in that year too?

"Shovelheads always needed a top end job done by 25-30K miles, no matter what you did to them." Fact.
And the English bikes (the older Triumph, BSA's and Norton's) seem to need top ends more often than that.
No matter what I preach to owners about warming up the engine before giving it the onion .
I do not see to many Shovel's, or any other bike I repair or rebuild, with that many miles on them. But what I do see is abuse and neglect.
But the Shovel and Ironhead Sportster's do require torque plates for boring as per Harley Davidson manual and suggested for the Pan, Knuckle and various Side Valves.

I rebuild motorcycle engines (American, Japanese and English). Harley Davidson requires a torque plate for boring and I have and use them. Though they are the only make that requires them. Once just for the fun of it I bored a friends Ironhead Sportster without the torque plates with his knowledge. I also bored the cylinders on my own Shovelhead without the plates. Using a dial bore gauge I could not tell the difference on the bores with or without the plates.

The Sporty now has 15000 more plus miles on the engine and no problems, well outside of what is considered normal. Same for my old Shovel, though it only has around 10000 more miles on it after the rebuild.

I suppose the point I am making is that some expert and professional (hopefully) determined that torque plates were required for Harley cylinder boring. And I use them. But just to satisfy my on curiosity I had to try without. I am really not about short cuts just the most beneficial way to do a job. I like to do it right.

So that explains the question about the bolt being left in or taken out.

You guys really did help with your replies and I do appreciate it!

Thanks Spiris.

Hmmmm, so I will have to ponder this some more.

I have been taught that it is best to leave the bolt in on some rifles like the Swedish Mauser when removing the barrels as some of the actions can twist.

Whether or not that is true I do not know. But I figure that many many before me have done this many times and I go by their advice and wisdom (until proven wrong).

But I removed a barrel off of an 1906 BSA SHTLE last night without the bolt in it and it came off so easy I thought I was doing something wrong .

I use a Brownells barrel vise & aluminum bushings and their action wrench with the model/action specific head. Though I had a friend make a head for me to remove barrels from U.S. Krags.

I am a well equipped amateur bubba-hacker kinda smith :lol:

Doesn't sound like the Alaska I remember from the very early 80's. 1980's that is .

Just curious to see which technique is preferred "bolt in" or "bolt out" for barrel removal of the SMLE and the Lee Enfield No4's?

Thanks a heap!

Dr. Hess that is a nice and functional looking rifle.

The hardwood (pine?) floor is excellent!

This is a good place to get help and parts!

http://www.brownells.com/guntech/index.htm?avs|Make_3=AR-15zz1zzM4

I agree with ken98k. Building one is a blast too though.

Are you considering a .223 or .308 lower?

I have a few rifles I am working on and finishing up. And I cannot help but wonder what I would like to replace a finished project with.

I was thinking about a Mosin Nagant chambered in 405 Winchester.

Any thoughts anyone?

Not sure if it is true or not but I can believe it when this is allowed https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Free_speech_zone

"Gun I wonder how the shoulder angle affects a belted mag that headspaces on the belt??"

I am not sure. But my thinking is that as the 7MM Rem. Mag. has a 25 degree shoulder that an additional 10 degrees would not matter.

Asking for help and opinions here-would the extra 10 degrees matter?

I assure you my comrades urrr I mean my friends I am not a commie. I am a socialist :lol: .

I did not list all of my favorites but be assured the .357, .429 and .451 are owned and enjoyed by me.

I will find my owners manual and let you know. I do not shoot +P out of mine though there is an older thread at taurusarmed.net about the Millennium Pro PT145 and shooting +P loads.

I would copy and paste but this site will not let me paste.

The Winchester 230 grain JHP's and the Winchester 230 grain Defender's work very well in my Taurus.

Well it is super secret but I'll tell you as long as you don't tell anyone else :D.

It is just a necked up 7MM Rem. Mag. to 8MM with a 35 degree shoulder.

Lots of other cartridges already out there that are much better than this. I just wanted to do something different and I like the 8MM bullet.

Well I like the 7MM bullet, the 6.5MM bullet, .311 bullet, .338 bullet .30 caliber bullet, .458 caliber bullet, .224 bullet, okay I like most of them.

I have the same pistol. It is my carry piece too.

I replaced the factory sights with a set of Williams Firesights (green front & red rear). Mighty helpful.