littlecanoe

Well, I love that evil black gun and as DT stated, Very Cool. I'll have to work on an AR since they are everywhere and more in my price range. We should all have an evil black rifle though.

Is that what the Canadian and Brit soldiers are using these days? Looks familiar from some footage that I've seen on Liveleak.

Sweet! Nice American classic.

I didn't get to go to the shop but they fixed it. They put the pan right side up with the blades on the bottom and braced on either side of the blade. Then they put something solid on both sides of the spline shaft/mount. Then applied a 20 or 22 ton press to the pan. It came right down and didn't rebound and measured out right. Put it back on the hog and so far it works like a charm!! We watched it as it spun down and it looks more balanced than it did yesterday. Nice thing............No whap whap whap. Thanks for all the ideas guys!

Oops, Forgot to say that it's a 5 footer. I'm off to my dad's now. I appreciate the feedback. The fella that does some of our more difficult welding is a good old country boy with a lot of equipment. I'll let ya know how it comes out. I didn't think of cutting the blades down. Hope we don't need to go that for but at least it's an option. I wonder what Fritz's solution would have been...............................

Here is a rough sketch of the pan that holds the blades. The pan is designed to glide over obstacles. It is a round shallow dish. A and B are mounting points for the blades. There are 2 blades opposed at 180 degrees. I've tried to show how point B is high, where the pan has been bent up just a bit. Probably no more than 1/2 ". This makes one blade run high though and that is where the problem arises. (I may be over thinking this but I want to get this thing working without hearing that blade thump the frame. I really need to do some brush cleaning.) C is the mounting point and is held in place by a large washer and nut. My thought is to secure the pan to a press and flatten it back out. I'm just not sure where to put the pressure. Place the pan right side up? Upside down? I have to keep the whole thing relatively square.

My dad and I have been rehab'ing a brush jumper bush hog. Trouble is, one of the blades keeps hitting the leading edge of the frame. After we bought it at an auction, we realized that it had been banged around a bit more than originally thought. The frame is square and the pumpkin sits square to the frame. The hitch was bent a bit but we straightened it and it measures out even. We have noticed that the stump pan, the base that the blades attach to, runs high on one side where the one blade attaches. This is the blade that hits the front edge of the frame. This side of the pan actually sits closer to the underside of the frame at the point where the blade attaches. My fix is to take the pan off, remove the blades and put it on a hydraulic press to even things out. The way I see it it is important to keep the arbor square to the point that the blades mount. Question: How do we align it on the press to keep everything square and keep the mounting points for the blades even?

That's awesome! It's really great that your uncle wanted it to be passed to someone in the family that would use and appreciate it. Hats off to him for being that thoughtful. Sounds like you have a couple great heirloom pieces to keep in your family.

Brad, I'm not the resident expert by any shape of the imagination. Rank amateur won't even cover my skill level. I'm really just starting and trying to slowly make my first one and see how it goes. Some of these guys have made some really nice poducts. I'm just trying to pick up some tips where I can. Jimro nailed the tempering/annealing issue from what I've read. The link that I had in the last post that I made is a neat one for some basic knife making. I realized that I hadn't annealed my spring steal fully because a power sander would barely take metal off the blank. I'm working on a pretty broad learning curve. lc

Congratulations! May you have 35 more peaceful, happy years together!! lc

Here is a link to the book. It has some nice B & W pics and what I thought was very good detail on components of a stock, stock set up etc... Maybe someone else who has the book can give some insight also. D. Wesbrook "Professional Stock Making" BTW, I live about 100 miles from Louisville. Edited to add: Just realized. Looks like the book is out of print. Maybe it's floating around on the used market.

machinist, A lot of it depends on body build also. I'm about 5'8" and carry most of the weight in my chest. Because of that I have a bit different angle on my butt plates than my friend who is taller and lighter than me. At least to some degree body build will come into play. I know that I didn't answer the question but for a good weld to the stock that shoulder fit is important. I have a stock making book that made it all come to light for me. Wish that I could link you to some good info on the Web.

So what happened to the dog? Did they rescue it or did the raccoon kill it?

On the electric bore cleaner I have seen the suggestion to use an old cell phone charger as the power source. I haven't tried this but it might simplify the process. Not my idea so I can't take credit. No matter how, it really does clean that bore out. It's amazing what can hide in an old rifle barrel.

I did physical therapy in the home care setting for 10 years. The only dog that I was ever attacked by, if you can call it that, was a Pomeranian. Twice by the same dog. Both times I reflexively kicked the dog across the room. Then I apologized! LOL. After the second go around the lady took the dog outside and kept it away from me. I don't get the lap dog thing either.

I'll bet the Public Defender was just tickled pink to see this case come across the desk!!

Thanks! I might just pick it up then. Sounds like I can't go wrong with DWM or Cz. Z, I need to talk about the matching 7x57 projects that I e-mailed you about.

I've been researching a Mauser that has been offered for sale by a friends dad. He picked it up at an auction. I don't have pictures unfortunately. It has the Brazillian chrest with star. The action says "fabrique de _____________ Brazil" in front of the thumb cutout. Opposite in behind the front ring it reads Mod 08/34 .30. I assume that this indicates a rebarrel to 30.06. It isn't Pristine. It's non-matching. The handguard is rough. The cosmo appears to never have been cleaned from the rifle as it is dried and black. The bore appears sharp but very dirty. Can't tell about rust. There does appear to be rust on the barrel underneath the handguard. Asking price is 125$. I'm not sure what it's worth or who made it or if it's a good choice. Any ideas?

Is it common to see that many muley's together? That's pretty awesome to say the least. I wonder what the total point count for that group would be?

Yep, thinking of having a local guy cut it for me. I'd really like to have my own. I just figured out my problem. I didn't keep the spring steel hot for a long enough time to soften it. I got it cherry red but didn't keep it there long enough to allow the carbide to convert back to carbon. I'll do that and then I'll be able to cut it with a blade and manage getting the edge contoured more easily. Here is a nice vid link that I found came across. A pretty basic approach with basic tools but looks to be very effective. Basic knife

Kenny, That looks like a great rehab job on that one. I heated and straightened the spring today. Got it cherry red then hammered it straight. Problem: still very hard to cut through. Makes me think that it isn't fully de-tempered. I let it cool to ambient temp slowly. Do I need to heat it again to make it more workable? thanks, lc

I drew out a pattern for a hunter/skinner today. I have some old leaf spring stock that I need to de-temper. I figure that steel is a good high carbon and safe to start with. I'm wanting some advice on what parts and pieces I need to put the handle on. The scales(?) will likely be American walnut or Black cherry. I believe that we have some Brazilian cherry around the shop also. I know that I'll need to epoxy and rivet the scales to the blade but what size rivets are recommended? Any special tools required or will I just need stuff that is around the shop? Thanks, lc

Jerry, I've yet to find anything that I don't like about it. It cycles Hornady XTP hp's just fine so far. I need to find a nice streamline holster now. lc

Thor, I'll assume that the Herter's is generous in grip material. Having had to face a similar scenario I might opt for working bottom up as long as everything lines up well at present. The stockmaking book that I have recommends inletting the bottom metal first and working from there. I believe that it's the "David Westbrook" book. However, it's so much work do bring a barreled action down. Especially if it's a ways to go. How big is your gap at present? lc aka IZH27

My dad and I each got one of these little gems yesterday. They were from SOG and very clean. Looked like they had hardly been used. My first impression is that it's a nice little firearm. It's light weight and the size is nice for carrying. Recoil is a bit harsh but not abusive. For self defense and a glovebox gun it's just fine. I figure that the 95 grain XTP's from Hornady would make a nice stopper at close range. lc