Downwindtracker2

No fear of surplus ammo, I reload. I have a jug of IMR 4064 . I started this project when I was last here some years ago, and have collected brass, Remington and Nosler bullets. The stock was fairly recent, within the last couple of years, but the Leupold 4power dates back to the earlier project time. I have found the bolt parts, which is good as the bolt is shorter than a regular 98. I just have to relearn Mauser bolt assembly. This getting old involves a lot of relearning, chuckle. My wife was recently bemoaning missing out on our trip to Boise Arizona . She is a rockhound. The Quartzite Rock and Gem show is miles of jewelry counters to her.

I was just searching google for Turkish Mauser quality and I found out what I have. An oddball of course, a M1903/30 Model. It has a pretty interesting history , The Ottoman Empire started out with 7.65x54 cartridge and the Turkish Republic reworked their old rifles to 8x57JS starting in 1930 . I have one of these. It was done in 1935 by the serial #. The action was made by Mauser in 1903. I paid $100 which was too much for the very rough sporter. I sent to my gunsmith friend, for some reason. He said the barrel was shot, but he said had a decent German take-off one under his bench. When he fitted it, he also shaped it, with a half length octagon. As with any of his work, it looks great. I'm fitting it to a gunshow large ring stock, that someone had done in his idea of Weatherby style. The glass bedding will also fill in the difference between intermediate and standard 98. There is enough wood that I can reshape. I'm better at wood than metal.

Form my woodworking bench, I use polymerised tung oil. Same stuff I use to hand rub my stocks with. My reloading bench has either porch paint or a urethane, forgot which. If I was using oil based Varathane, nicer than the water based stuff,, I would do two coats wait for it to be completely dry, then sand with 220 grit and use foam roller or foam paint brush for the final coat.

I've used earth pigments , I got them from Lee Valley . I don't know if they still sell them. I'm going to need some when I fill the gaps and bed this 1930 Turk to someone's idea of a Weatherby stock. I just need to find the small container. chuckle. If that is unsuccessful, I think the local plastics store sells dye.

Since I haven't programed the VFD on my lathe, yet. I just love this electronic age. This question is more merely of interest. How does the Co-Op work ?

On woodworking forums, the sharpening topic goes pages overnight. And everyone has their favourite method. Heck, it's just abrading steel. Sharper the tool, the easier it is to use it.

Hi there, it's been a long while since I posted or even visited . After I drink my morning coffee, I'll go back to work on a 1930s Turk, but before that I'm going to have to sharpen some chisels. A lot. The old problem of fixing the tool or machine before you use it. Which is what I'm moaning about. I had picked up a Model 98 stock at a gunshow, a real over the top Weatherby style someone had made. A lot of work had gone into it, but it was pretty offensive to my eyes. They hurt looking at it. But with lots of wood, so that can be fixed. But fitting the inlet was going to take some doing. That's where the chisels will come in. I have three or four sets of those small carving chisels that I have picked up at fleamarkets. All are either dull or never been sharpened. Chisels come from the factory unsharpened, just roughly shaped. I use Japanese ceramic waterstones and Lee Valley's green crayon. Oh well

Even later reply, it its a topic that is pretty useful. Cocobolo (sp) is rosewood that is much more common. I picked up a small plank at our local finishing store . moldings plywood sort of stuff, not even a hardwood or specialty wood type place.

I just picked up at a gunshow Husky 4100 rebarreled to 6.5-06.Just what I was going to get built. This HVA action comes with a single stage trigger.The safety is trigger block. My RCBS trigger guage goes to 72oz,and this trigger is well past that. Is there a replacement available or do I have to send it out to gunsmith with much more skill than I have

I have battle sighted P-14 that I really enjoy shooting. It's now set for 180RN Speers.I had to file and hammer,so to change load it would be a pain. As '17s and P-14s were once fairly common,Lymans and Redfield must have made a simple bolt-in,ears and all. Did they and what were the model #s. thx

Check the drawings in Roy Dunlaps book,it is do able.But shooting my P-14 and M-17,I don't find the cock-on closing a bother. However I bought the DT kit for a M-96.

Thanks,You know you shouldn't be telling people about his site,that's how I began to think a lathe could be real handy. The one I got is step or two up from his common SIEG 7x12,but I paid about the same.I goolged to track down the name and the factory,Jiangsu XIMA , http://www.xima.net.cn/. My gunsmith friend said I could do sporter barrels on it.

I just got a deal on a new chinese lathe,a "No-Name" CQ6125 250mmx550mm (10"x22") same as a Lathemaster 9" with a change gear feedbox to go wth the change gear.Seems like a good piece of machinery,it's also got good reveiws. Now I need some hints on set-up.

Clemson ,you are right .MT #2 to JT#3 on mine. When the stub been on for a while ,I have had to make wedges to drive them off. I measured the run-out with my well used Rohm chuck,it was.010",I imagine most as bad or worse.

I kept hearing about lateral thrust on the bearings,so I looked at the bearing # on my Jet 17",they are 6200 series,a deep race ball,much better with lateral than thrust.My quill isn't too bad for slop.On the old US made drill presses you could lock it down.

The 308Norma case is 60thou shorter,and the neck is longer.You end up with almost 1/8" shorter round. 300WinMags are not really a good fit in 3.340 (30-06) box of the P-17. BTW the knotted knicker set don't like P-17,they much perfer Model of 1917. A must is replacing the sliver of spring on the ejector with a coil spring.Or buy the kit from GunParts. I have three,a 308Norma,a farming out a rebarrel to 358Norma and a restocked P-14,the battle sights are fun. Timmey triggers in them all. the P-17s have the corners softened on the dog legs,they all have contoured trigger bows.

I ordered the kit with the trigger and a safety,today. I lose the side trigger block one.No great loss there. I guess in Sweden they had a side safety kit. It just blocks the end of the sear lever.I'll let you how the kit works out.

I bought a M-96 (M-38) Swede sporter for my grandson. I finally got a chance to load some and take it to the range. I was able to sight it in,so the bases do line up ,And I was very impressed with a basic group of 3/4" wide x 6" vertical. The 6" was from a terrible,terrible trigger. I could have swore the side safety was still on!! Dayton Traister makes a trigger and cock-on-open kit for this rifle. Does the kit involve any machining ? Is it very easy to install?

I don't know about 35 Whelen,but I make 338-06 in one pass with a Lee set.They now have nice expander stem.One time reloading 30-06 I forgot to lube the inside of the neck,man that was work.I ussualy lube necks with the Lee white stuff and a bore mop.I wet the mop first.The mops use 8/32 threads.

Eddystone receivers are made of the same nickel-steel as pre-war M-70s.Pre-war M-70 receivers sometimes have steel questions,or at least two gunsmiths I highly respect have said so. So it would be expected Eddystone could have some problems as well. They were building 6,000 a day.They made well over a million of them. My Eddystone ,if anything, is likely soft.

Erfurts were a small ring 98,made with a large ring barrel stub during the WW I.I was told to avoid them.

My friend uses Varget in his 35Whelen,so I should think any of the 4064 class should work. I once left my loading log at the club range,went back but someone had taken it.Now it stays home. Another buddy was working up a bunch of loads,so he used ordinary sealed letter evelopes,then wrote the loads on the targets.I have dropped the slip on box that had the two loads at each end,more practice loads. For painless load work, I use a front rest with a owl ears bag and buuny ears at the back. But I also put three heavy sand bags behind the butt,and look over them. The left hand stays away from the rifle. Checkered bolt knobs get some tape,they chew up the side of your trigger finger.

I don't mind IMR powders, I burn 4350 and 4064 for practice and target,but I use a Lee Perfect Powder Measure.I can get within five or less sticks. The trick is hesitate while the tube is loading,then dump.Always use the same action and force. For a good hunting load in a 30-06,you are looking for flexablity,one grain or one grain down doesn't change the accuracy much if any.Then temperature,case size,primer lot # won't affect you much. Remeber this a hunting load,not target.So for a 30-06 with all that data out there,I would go in two grain steps but load six,so you get two groups on the same target. Allow your barrel to cool all the way to cold between groups.It goes without saying use slow ,safe,casefilling,powder. When I did load development with 338-06 and 264 I went in one grain steps,toward the top ,1/2grain. I chronyed every shot,this gave me an idea of where I was pressure wise,velocity is a product of pressure,and how the powder was reacting. There is simply no data for those powders in these calibers. The classic 30-06 powder is a 4350,but if one of the slower powder such as a 4831 will work , all the better,more velocity at the same pressures. In that same vein, a case full of RL-22 is good for 2800f/s at 60,000 psi. But it doesn't always work.

Did you try Weastern Gun parts in Edmonton? http://www.westerngunparts.com/main_page.htm

I have a mixmaster M'17 308Norma sporter and a P-14,the ejector,mag box and bottom metal are all different. I have never looked at the followers. To help the 308 feed,I had to roll (grind away) the center lip of the follower.Like a post war commerical FN.