bubbamauser Posted November 3, 2005 Report Share Posted November 3, 2005 has anyone ever used brownells gun cote, I want to try it in the matte black or the brushed stainless I dont know if it will look "spray painted" or just bad. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sailormilan2 Posted November 3, 2005 Report Share Posted November 3, 2005 Bubbamauser, I haven't used the Brownells Guncote, but I have used KG Coatings version of it. I really like the Brushed Stainless Steel finish, and I have done about 5 rifles in it. I have done 2 in the Flat Black, and they are definately very flat and very black. I have done a couple in the GunMetal Blue, and it is so so. I have post a picture showing 3 triggergaurds. the one on the left is done in KG Coating Brushed Stainless Steel. It is a couple of shades lighter than the Ruger SS finsh, but a nice non reflective sheen to it.Mauser triggergaurd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pedestal Posted November 3, 2005 Report Share Posted November 3, 2005 has anyone ever used brownells gun cote, I want to try it in the matte black or the brushed stainless I dont know if it will look "spray painted" or just bad. Thanks 6291[/snapback] I have used it on several guns, with fairly good results. As with all paints, prep is the key. I have only used the black. I would strongly recommend you NOT use the spray can version. That's what I used, and like any spray can, it's difficult to get a good, even job. Not impossible, but difficult. Invest in a $20 airbrush. I have recently started using Lauer Weapons paints, and like them a LOT. They are tougher than Gunkote (and should be, they are 2 part epoxy, not bake on). Downside is they are a bit more expensive. Back to the Gunkote. On the first one I did, I masked off the rails, basically all the internal surfaces. On another one, I did NOT (other than the chamber area), and so far, it has held up to the bolt riding on it. But it has not seen a lot of use, either. In no case did I do the bolt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Guest_mod70_* Posted November 3, 2005 Report Share Posted November 3, 2005 I recently did my first Lauer job and have a comment. I thought I followed the instructions properly and found the paint to adhere to the raw steel barrel nicely but it wants to flake or rub off the receiver. I did not park any of the metal as they advised for the best adhesion but did a thorough degreasing and handled everything with clean vinyl gloves prior to painting. The instructions said parking was not necessary and the paint would adhere well without it. It was a blued turk receiver that I roughed up a bit with a wire brush before degreasing with DA. The directions said bead blasting was not necessary but now I wish I had done so. Have no choice but to do it now. Wanted to save somebody else the hassle -- blast or park seems to be the only safe way to ensure adheshion to a Turk, at least IME. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fritz Posted November 4, 2005 Report Share Posted November 4, 2005 I have not used GunCoat, only the bake-on finishes such as Brownell's Baking Lacquer in flat black. In my view, any spray-on finish needs to go onto a bead-blasted metal surface. It may work without the rough surface, but I am looking for a finish that will hold up to hard use. I don't just look at my guns--I use them (hard at times). A good even coat is needed with any spray can product, and that is why Brownell's sells extra spray tips for their aerosol cans. A partially clogged tip will definitely ruin your job. None of the spray-on stuff equals a good hot-blue job. fritz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pedestal Posted November 4, 2005 Report Share Posted November 4, 2005 I think blasting is an absolute necessity for a good job. You can get by with a much finer grit than they recommend (and I prefer 320) but you still have to blast... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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