need opinions on gun-cote

[bubbamauser]

has anyone ever used brownells gun cote, I want to try it in the matte black or the brushed stainless I dont know if it will look "spray painted" or just bad.

 

Thanks

[Sailormilan2]

Bubbamauser, I haven't used the Brownells Guncote, but I have used KG Coatings version of it. I really like the Brushed Stainless Steel finish, and I have done about 5 rifles in it. I have done 2 in the Flat Black, and they are definately very flat and very black. I have done a couple in the GunMetal Blue, and it is so so. I have post a picture showing 3 triggergaurds. the one on the left is done in KG Coating Brushed Stainless Steel. It is a couple of shades lighter than the Ruger SS finsh, but a nice non reflective sheen to it.Mauser triggergaurd

[Pedestal]

has anyone ever used brownells gun cote, I want to try it in the matte black or the brushed stainless I dont know if it will look "spray painted" or just bad.

 

Thanks

6291[/snapback]

 

I have used it on several guns, with fairly good results. As with all paints, prep is the key. I have only used the black. I would strongly recommend you NOT use the spray can version. That's what I used, and like any spray can, it's difficult to get a good, even job. Not impossible, but difficult. Invest in a $20 airbrush.

I have recently started using Lauer Weapons paints, and like them a LOT. They are tougher than Gunkote (and should be, they are 2 part epoxy, not bake on). Downside is they are a bit more expensive.

Back to the Gunkote. On the first one I did, I masked off the rails, basically all the internal surfaces. On another one, I did NOT (other than the chamber area), and so far, it has held up to the bolt riding on it. But it has not seen a lot of use, either. In no case did I do the bolt.

[Guest Guest_mod70_*]

I recently did my first Lauer job and have a comment. I thought I followed the instructions properly and found the paint to adhere to the raw steel barrel nicely but it wants to flake or rub off the receiver. I did not park any of the metal as they advised for the best adhesion but did a thorough degreasing and handled everything with clean vinyl gloves prior to painting. The instructions said parking was not necessary and the paint would adhere well without it. It was a blued turk receiver that I roughed up a bit with a wire brush before degreasing with DA. The directions said bead blasting was not necessary but now I wish I had done so. Have no choice but to do it now. Wanted to save somebody else the hassle -- blast or park seems to be the only safe way to ensure adheshion to a Turk, at least IME.

[fritz]

I have not used GunCoat, only the bake-on finishes such as Brownell's Baking Lacquer in flat black.

 

In my view, any spray-on finish needs to go onto a bead-blasted metal surface. It may work without the rough surface, but I am looking for a finish that will hold up to hard use. I don't just look at my guns--I use them (hard at times).

 

A good even coat is needed with any spray can product, and that is why Brownell's sells extra spray tips for their aerosol cans. A partially clogged tip will definitely ruin your job.

 

None of the spray-on stuff equals a good hot-blue job.

 

fritz

[Pedestal]

 

I think blasting is an absolute necessity for a good job. You can get by with a much finer grit than they recommend (and I prefer 320) but you still have to blast...