usmc0332 Posted December 13, 2005 Report Share Posted December 13, 2005 I tried to follow the advanced cold bluing instructions I found on a board today. I didn't stuff Turk Mauser parts in the dumpster, tho I did stop and think of doing so for about 2 minutes. instead I rinsed all parts off well, put them in a clean 5 gallon bucket and drenched them with the last bit from 2 penetrating oil cans, and shut off the lights. At least there will be something besides rust in there tomorrow. So much for polishing to 400grit, a $12 bluing kit, and 5 hrs of scrubbing and trying to blue. (smiles) at least there is always tomorrow. At least it isn't an automobile. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swamp_thing Posted December 13, 2005 Report Share Posted December 13, 2005 I guess I am a bit dense here on this one. Are you saying that by following the cold bluing tips posted here that you ended up with rust and not blue? It sounds as though you are saying that the parts rusted badly as you were trying to blue them. Might I ask what bluing solution you used, as well as how you followed posted suggestions. I am not trying to suggest it is something you did or did not do here. I am simply trying to figure out what might have caused such a reaction. What did you degrease with? As a last question, what parts were you attempting to blue? If the suggestions Emul8 and myself have posted about cold bluing on this site led to unwanted results, then it would be good to know what took place and how it came about. Sorry to hear that things did not go well with you on this endeaver. Please follow up with additional info so that others will have the information at their disposal as well. swamp_thing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doble Troble Posted December 13, 2005 Report Share Posted December 13, 2005 The best cold bluing starts with a layer of rust. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MorgansBoss Posted December 13, 2005 Report Share Posted December 13, 2005 PLEASE tell us more of your experience. What solution? What "instructions"? Did the info come from here or elsewhere? Cold blue (as well as ANY blue) can get hokey sometimes, but the saving grace of it happening with the cold solutions is that they are not as "deep" as rust or hot blues and hence easier to clean-up. Tell us more, please. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flaco Posted December 13, 2005 Report Share Posted December 13, 2005 When in doubt, read the instructions. If worse comes to worst, follow them. flaco Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spiris Posted December 13, 2005 Report Share Posted December 13, 2005 On the bright side, Turk Mauser parts are still relatively cheap and plentiful. We all learn from our mistakes and "endeavor to persevere". Spiris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beanstrung Posted December 14, 2005 Report Share Posted December 14, 2005 "endeavor to perservere" That line makes me remember the next few lines... "they told me to surrender, but I would not surrender, but they took my horse and made him surrender. He's pulling a plow up in Kansas somewhere." -Chief Lone Waddy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
usmc0332 Posted December 15, 2005 Author Report Share Posted December 15, 2005 First of all I was not taking shots at anyone for their bluing tips. I may in the future work up to them. Tonight I started where I left off and actually learned what I was attempting to do. I started working on one part at a time. I guess I assumed that because I bought a bluing kit I was already an expert. I decided to work slower without the use of a torch. I degreased as I had before. Rubber gloves and first scrubbing with dishsoap and a toothbrush, then rinse well, then with steel wool and the degreaser supplied in the Perma Blue kit. Then I followed the package directions. Blue, rinse, gently rub with steel wool, repeat. I noticed that the bluing did work best when the dry parts were still hot from washing. I am not yet ready to try to evenly heat with a propane torch, this was trouble for me last time. Some of the parts that I had done last time came out perfect, small parts. I was able to build on what I had last time, after cleaning off the uneveness. I am no longer an exhausted and frustrated NOVICE. I am a NOVICE that is beginning to learn what the heck I am doing. Thanks guys. Now I think I will be able to do a nice job on the barreled receiver. Has anyone had any luck with bluing the stock disks and crossbolt? I wonder if those are worth attempting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Guest_MorgansBoss_* Posted December 15, 2005 Report Share Posted December 15, 2005 Don't dispair Keith. Everything in this hobby - bluing not the least of them - is a learning process. You've made a smart move to start with the smaller parts. You'll learn that some parts depending on hardness, etc. will take the blue differently. Bolt shrouds are particularly difficult to get a rich deep color with cold solutions. If you try to do a barreled action be prepared! Thats a lot of steel to keep wet at the same time. It can be done and quite satisfactorily at that, but don't expect perfection with the first application. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swamp_thing Posted December 15, 2005 Report Share Posted December 15, 2005 I can certainly say that it does not always go as planned when cold bluing. As MorgansBoss stated, it is definately a learning experience. I have had some parts that simply would not blue but rather came out a real pretty grayed color. Most of the time things go well. As for the heating with the torch, it would be somewhat tough to get an even heat applied. Actually, nice and warm is probably more what a person is shooting for here. I use a small piece of soft cotton cloth to apply the blue with, and use it liberally. What I use is a cleaning patch. Hang in there, it will all come out and in the end you will be suprised at how well things work. swamp_thing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fritz Posted December 16, 2005 Report Share Posted December 16, 2005 It sounds like you were using the Casey's Perma Blue. Toss it (but be environemtally considerate) and get some Brownell's Oxpho Blue. It is simply the best cold blue out there. But nothing beats a hot blue job, even on the first attempt (if you are careful). fritz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsefly Posted December 16, 2005 Report Share Posted December 16, 2005 Like fritz said,get some Oxpho Blue,and you'll have by far better results.Even the instructions are by far better.The key to a good cold blue is to get the first application on as smooth and evenly as possible.My biggest mistake was carding it down way to far between each application.Don't forget to wash your steel wool.I soak mine in a coffee can full of alcohol,take it out a couple days before it's needed,and let it dry in a sunny spot.Get the alcohol at the Dollar Store or Dollar Tree,'cause you can get a bunch for 3 or 4 dollars.I haven't done a complete gun yet that I didn't take the first or second application back down to bare metal and start over.The first step is the most important.On all the other applications,use so little blue solution on a new cloth or cotton,you relly don't know if you got any on it or not.Too much solution,and it will cut itself and go back to grey.I Oxphed a .410 for a guy at work last fall,and I started over from scratch on it 4 or 5 times,and even though I could see some spots I wish weren't there,he was tickled shmittless and brought it to work and showed everybody.It made me big headed to see him so happy with it.After you finish bluing,oil the crap out of it,I use 3-in-one machine oil,but any non-detergent motor oil will work,and let it set a couple days,oiling it occationally.Seems like after looking and watching the process for a while,when you walk away for a day or so,it seems to be darker than you remembered when you stopped.If you follow the instructions exactly that Oxpho Blue sends you,and you don't expect the first application to look like a Purdy shotgun,you'll be pleased I think.Oh ya,Cabela's has Oxpho Blue in their catalog and store.Jerry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
usmc0332 Posted December 17, 2005 Author Report Share Posted December 17, 2005 I just finished bluing the rest of the parts. The barreled receiver came out a nice blue, after 5 or 6 applications. I used cotton pads. I dropped the extractor screw during rinsing. It went right in the drain hole. I was even lucky enough to get it out with a magnet. It all looks great. Now I can't wait until tomorrow so I can put it back together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doble Troble Posted December 17, 2005 Report Share Posted December 17, 2005 Another big tuna gets hooked on the sporterization line! You'll be happily flopping on deck in no time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MorgansBoss Posted December 17, 2005 Report Share Posted December 17, 2005 Congratulations my boy! I learned long ago that there are times in life when things just refuse to work out. When that happens the best course of action is to simply walk away and come back later. The hardest part is recognizing when its time to do so. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roscoedoh Posted December 17, 2005 Report Share Posted December 17, 2005 MB, That's some of greatest advice I've ever read. Many would do well to take note. Jason Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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