My turn to whine and feel sorry for myself.

[AzRednek]

About 5-6 years ago I did a swap while Backpage was still alive. I traded two Jap rifles and one Jap bayonet for a 1917 US Enfield and a South American 30/06 Mauser. Unfortunately I stuck the Enfield in the back of my vault and forgot about it. I drug the Enfield out yesterday, looked down the bore then wanted to cry. The bore was a mess. I do recall taking a peek down both bores before we completed the trade and they appeared satisfactory at the time. I have a feeling the trader touched up the bore with the black shoe polish trick or some other substance. I spent a good deal of time last night scrubbing the bore and couldn’t get it clean. I plugged up the chamber, saturated the bore with Sweets 762 solvent and let it sit overnight. It helped but the bore still wasn’t clean. After using Mother’s Metal Polish then as a last resort scrubbed it vigorously with bore paste and a stainless bore brush. I finally got clean patches and a clear bore. The bore is clean but a bit dark. I won’t know how well it shoots until temps are below a hundred. My best guess it was likely shot with corrosive ammo and not properly cleaned. 
 

it’s a shame as the Eddystone Enfield’s metal appears to be all parkerized, barrel dated 12/18 and best I can tell no blue steel parts from a WW2 refurb. The SA Mauser’s bore is clean, clear, not shiny but after a quick brushing with Hoppes #9 no green patches. I still believe I did good in the trade. I bought the 7.7 Jap rifle in the mid 70s for $30. A few years later the same price I paid for an original cleaning rod and repro mono pod. It was an early model with chrome bore, aircraft sights intact and was an excellent shooter. The 6.5 Jap rifle I paid $10 without a bolt or mag floor plate. I pieced it together with gun show parts. It shot just ok with a partial box, about 5-6 rds of old and partially corroded Norma ammo. 
 

[Dr.Hess]

Such is wheeling and dealing.  I think you came out well for the time.  Probably for today also.  At worse, an even swap.

[karlunity]

Had the same 1917 Eddy, used a home made electric kit on it,(let me know if you want it and I shall dig out the instruction/construction sheet. I think NOTE "I think" all you need is ammonia..a steel rod with insulators to prevent it touching the side of the bore, a rubber plug for the chamber. wire, two  alligator clips and batteries..Note again.  That is from my ole brain. If you need it I will find the proper info..But boy does it work  

Karl

PS. You gotta remove the stock of course and wrap a rag under the muzzle  to catch the overflow as it baubles out of the bore and note..note It may ruin the finish. I did not care about finish as I am a shooter not a collector but some are and do..SO NOTE 

[FC]

I'd never heard of black shoe polish in a bore. People can be really rotten!

[AzRednek]

I didn’t see it being used but saw the aftermath of a neglected cheapie muzzle loader that used an electric gizmo with Mr Clean. Despite some pits the bore it came out real clean. I’ve been told Hoppes #9 and most other gun solvents. The main ingredient is ammonia with a strong perfume. Oil in the solution supposedly puts the brakes on fumes. Sweets 762 I was told uses concentrated ammonia. Just like WD-40, a strong perfume covers the kerosene and fish oil stench. I’m sold now on bore paste but wonder if long term use could dull a shiny bore or possibly affect barrel life. A shooting bud from years ago swore by Gumout as the best bore cleaner. He had a 220 Swift claiming the Gumout cleared out the copper fouling better and faster than Hoppes. He also claimed after shooting possibly corrosive mil-surp 8MM. He removed the wood then jumped into the shower with it and cleaned the bore with shampoo and warm water. After shooting corrosive I’ve always used Windex or battery terminal cleaner down the bore and on the bolt face before leaving the range or desert. Afterward at home just a conventional clean and oil. 
 

I’ve never been real persistent about cleaning. A brush with Hoppes, a few patches until they come out dry then an oily patch. I’ve had good success using Lead Away patches on my revolvers and a few times using PB Blaster to remove the 38 Special burn ring in a 357 cylinder. Guess I’m some what fortunate living in Phoenix with the over rated dry heat and low humidity, rust has never been a problem. A former in law living near New Orleans. Stores his guns and ammo in non working refrigerators with a dehumidifier to prevent rust. He’s a real character and I could write several paragraphs about him. He has a survivalist mentality and is prepared for a race war with muzzies. 
 

Doc, I’ve been burned a few times with trades. The worse was a US GI 1911 with a cracked frame rail. I’ll never deal for another used 1911 unless I remove the slide and take a peek. Another was a military configuration K98 that had likely been reamed to 8MM/06. 

[Dr.Hess]

If the frame rail cracked at the hole for the slide lock, going up to the rail, that's really just cosmetic.  That is, it won't affect gun function or be a safety hazard.  Of course, no one wants that, but it's really not that big of a deal.  I read it in a magazine, it must be true.

[AzRednek]

On 6/24/2022 at 6:11 AM, Dr.Hess said:

If the frame rail cracked at the hole for the slide lock, going up to the rail, that's really just cosmetic.  That is, it won't affect gun function or be a safety hazard.  Of course, no one wants that, but it's really not that big of a deal.  I read it in a magazine, it must be true.

I wish it had been that simple. There were cracks on both sides and pieces missing. It was a parts gun, I don’t recall the configuration but it had Springfield and Remington parts. The hodge-podge of 1911 parts were common years ago with surplus GI 45s. Best I recall the slide looked good, the bore was bright and the trigger pull satisfactory. The friend I sold it to dirt cheap bought a new commercial frame and built a functioning pistol. Another friend that was an Army armorer about 1968-71 in Germany. Told me the frame being worn and cracked was a fairly common problem. He didn’t like coming across them because of the paperwork and higher level concurrence associated with discarding a frame. Even to this day if my friend was given a 1911 he’d immediately sell it. He worked on hundreds of 1911s and despises them.