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Military Firearm Restoration Corner

Need Stock Opinions


roscoedoh

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How am I coming along with this one?

 

user posted image

 

user posted imageuser posted image

 

I would like opinions on how this one is shaping up. This is a scrap 98/22 stock that I am whittlin' on to try and stream line it a bit for my 8x57 project. I plan to make either Cape style or Mannlicher style open sighted rifle. I further plan to trim down and utilize the steel buttplate even if the length of pull is just right for someone half my size.

 

I have planed the long areas and rasped areas the plane couldn't get into. I'm trying to get my shaping done before I move to the sanding phase.

 

Also, how do I go about getting more of the oil out without creating further headaches? Since I'm going to use bits of wood to fill in holes here and there, I may stain this stock so everything comes out evenly colored. However, I'd like to get the oil in and around the action area out if I could. Any low-tech solutions?

 

Thanks for looking and for your opinon.

 

Jason

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Damn, Jason, I think you may be part beaver! That's going to be one light rifle. I think the grip is about as narrow as you'll want it, but it looks (to me) like more could be removed from the sides of the tang. But opinions are like armpits - everyone has a couple.

 

For finishing this type of stock I've sanded down to 400, raised the grain with ETOH (denatured ethanol) 2x and back down with 400 and sealed with equal parts mineral spirits and spar urethane (nothing fancy - just what was on the shelf at Home Depot). I give it multiple coats of the thinned varnish until the whole stock shines - some parts "drink" more than others - it's important that all parts get their fill. I use the super cheap foam brushes from Homier or Harbor freight. After sealing I sand it back to wood with 200 grit and then back to 400 grit and then really smooth with the scotchbrite pad steel wool substitute. Usually the pores are filled after this (but if not I don't sweat it for this type of stock - you may want to and then it's back to the thinned varnish for another pass).

 

After the sealing and filling I'll finish with an oil-based finish: 2 parts mineral spirits, 2 parts spar urethane and 1 part boiled linseed oil with a healthy splash of Japan Drier (also from Home Depot). This gets rubbed on by hand. The downside is it takes three days to dry in the humid summer. TruOil might be a faster option.

 

I've found with this type of oil-based finish that all of the remaining oil you're worried about (which as far as I'm concerned is impossible to remove) just blends in with the rest and you get an even finish. That's some nice walnut you're working with and it will come out looking fine without staining.

 

Very cool work!

 

Of course if you really want to finish it right following Bill Soverns method would be the way to go. You'll probably still get the even finish, but it would be higher quality.

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Jason-

 

You might want to get a book, "Professional Stockmaking" by Wesbrook for example.

 

There are lots of illustrations, and it gives you a really good idea of the architecture of a contemporary rifle stock.

 

Anyway, yours looks a little thin in the wrist.

 

My experience is that by using a grip cap, one establishes the dimension (width) of that area.

 

Also, I believe that before the move someone posted the name of a book that gave specific advice for reshaping military stocks.

 

Good luck,

 

flaco

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I'm no expert but I do know what I like and I think you're on the right track.

 

Just a couple of suggestions.

 

1. Try to straighten the bottom line of the butt from the toe to the bottom of the grip.

 

2. As mentioned, perhaps take a bit more wood off either side of the rear tang so the sides of the stock blend in with the sides of the grip.

 

3. Try to blend the front face of the comb with the top line of the grip. You've got a pretty abrupt angle there. Perhaps the top of the grip could be cut down a bit and the front face of the comb allowed to merge with the grip as a radius. Try not to move the point of the comb back any further.

 

4. Try to minimize the hollowing behind the grip on the sides. The side of the stock should be form a straight line from the butt to the sides of the grips along the side mid-line.

 

5. A couple of flutes on each side of the comb might look good.

 

Here's a cpuple of samples that show the treatment around the comb and grip.

 

user posted image

 

user posted image

 

 

There are some stockmakers who claim that a stock should be a combination of straight lines and portions of circles.

 

One of the best friends a stockmaker can have is a good steel 18" straight-edge.

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Also, how do I go about getting more of the oil out without creating further headaches?

About as low tech as you can get!! Works real well in Arizona especially this time of year with outside temps running as high as 120. I wrap cosmo soaked stocks in toilet paper put it in my car's trunk and park it in direct sunlight. When the stock cools down at night and the cosmo solidifies peel the paper off. Line your trunk well with newspaper or plastic. If the cosmoline gets in the trunk liner the odor wont go away.

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Jason,

 

I applaud your efforts as I have often thought about doing a similiar mannlicher style treatment of a milsurp. Recently on another thread I posted a side by side photo I took of a Mauser stock next to a slender, open gripped shotgun stock with a rounded pistolgrip cap area in which I noted the similarities. Z followed with a photo of some beautiful old sporters.

 

I think this look has a classic old world sporter style to it that would be very suitable for an open sighted rifle, and the Mauser military stock is not far removed from the end result. All that appears necessary is to remove all the stuff that doesn't look like a classicly shaped stock!

 

I like what your have done so far in the profile view. It needs a little more refinement to make the lines flow better, but it shows developing potential. That being said, unless the top view doesn't give a true perspective, I'd say that you removed way too much wood. The grip just looks way too narrow in the photo.

 

Now, I'll be the first to say do whatever you want to your own personal stock, and if it fits your hand nicely then so much the better, but if it's frank constructive criticism you're after I'd have to say that the proportions look completely off. Remember what has been said about Mr. Rasp?!

 

If this is a practice piece, I'd say continue shaping the flutes and blending the lines in an aesthetically pleasing manner just for the experience. You may still end up with something servicible, but I honestly think you went too far.

 

Just my humble opinion for what it's worth...

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but if it's frank constructive criticism you're after

 

Precisely what I'm after. Thank you.

 

I'm fumbling around in the dark with this stock making stuff I'm doing right now. I figured I'd experiment with an oil soaked spare I had stored in a corner so I could glean some knowledge before I tackled the two store-bought semi-inlets I have on tap next. (Although I have worked on the 30-06 stock a bit, that was after I figured out how Mr. Rasp worked.)

 

What the heck? It is ugly, but it does fit my montrous hand well enough. I'm going to see this one through just for kicks. Perhaps this will be the first stock I checker someday? I'm not out anything other than a few pleasant evenings and I've actually learned something. And I'm having fun.

 

Fellows, I appreciate the advice. This entire rifle is a "parts" gun I'm putting together out of spare stuff I have while working on some skills and techniques. I have to start somewhere and hopefully I'll improve as I go along. Thank you all for your time and those very helpful photos.

 

And as always, be frank!

 

Thanks,

 

Jason

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