Turk Won't Always Eject

[bja105]

My K Kale Turk with mismatched bolt does not always eject. The bolt has a lot of play when open, and if it is twisted too much counter clockwise, the ejector does not slide into the groove in the bolt head. I tried all the ejectors I have on hand, with no difference. I polished the insides of the bolt head slot with fine sand paper, no help.

Does anyone have a safe, cheap fix? Can I sand the slot enough bigger to let the ejector hit it with any twist? Will that create an unsafe situation? Anything better than sandpaper?

[tinkerfive]

I'd want to know what is a-miss first before offering any suggestions.

 

When you have the bolt rotated CCW and withdrawing it, the ejector slot

should be aligning with the ejector both at 9:00 as you are looking down

the barrel.

 

So I want to know if the bolt is actualy rotating such that the ejector slot is

going to 8:45, OR is there some bend or wear causing the ejector to go to

9:15.

 

My gut tells me to look hard at the ejector assy.

 

Let us know which it is and I'm sure that help will be had shortly.

 

Tinker

[sonic1]

i would look at the spring in the bolt stop ...i"ve seen a lot of problem in the turks were ths spring was weak

it needs to hold the ejector tight against the bolt..

[Doble Troble]

I've had this problem a few times. Usually I fix it by filing the edge of the ejector that fits into the bolt slimmer and then polishing it.

 

Sometimes even this isn't 100% and it takes a couple of pulls to send the brass flying. I don't mind too much, but I don't shoot these for anything but fun, and with 8 mm surplus as cheap as it is, they can be A LOT of fun.

 

I like joining the guys plinking cans with their 22s with the Turk. Usually it ends up getting passed around. The only downside is the 8 mm really tears up the cans.

[bja105]

Thanks for the good ideas. I think I have it licked. I polished the ejector some, polished the slot a bunch, and tried another ejector box I had. I think the new spring made the most difference. Unfortunately, that was the ugliest, pitted ejector box I had.

 

I killed two deer with the rifle last year. The second was in a field, at the top of the hill, in 6 inches of snow. At the shot, he ran into 2 feet of snow while I fought with the rifle, trying to load another round. I probably wouldn't have stopped him any quicker with a second shot, but I don't want any more malfunctions.

 

The rifle is a highly customized K Kale in a wildcat I call "8x58 bja105." Its a military 8x57 with too much headspace. I make brass from 30-06, sized to fit the chamber. "Customizations" include a bore pitted to resemble the lunar surface, barrel cut off with a sawzall, crown precision cut with a file and a cordless drill, and a cheap scope. This rifle looks terrible, but shoots 1.5" groups with no problem.

[z1r]

The rifle is a highly customized K Kale in a wildcat I call "8x58 bja105." Its a military 8x57 with too much headspace. I make brass from 30-06, sized to fit the chamber. "Customizations" include a bore pitted to resemble the lunar surface, barrel cut off with a sawzall, crown precision cut with a file and a cordless drill, and a cheap scope. This rifle looks terrible, but shoots 1.5" groups with no problem.

 

 

I love it! FYI, My first bolt action, a Rem 700 .30-06 never managed better than 1.5".

[Doble Troble]

a wildcat I call "8x58 bja105."

 

And a fine wildcat it is!

 

I suspect its more common than most realize. I hope that others with rifles in this excellent chambering are as astute as you in realizing that they have it.

 

If you know how to deal with and reload for a rifle with excessive headspace, it isn't a dangerous situation, and can allow these old war horses to be put to the excellent use that you've described!