ken98k Posted January 4, 2007 Report Share Posted January 4, 2007 It's been a number of years since I've done any real woodworking. I'm having a tough time sanding around tight curves at the wrist and cheekrest without going against the grain. I'm trying not to round the sharp lines. Does anyone have any tips on this? Kenny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron J Posted January 5, 2007 Report Share Posted January 5, 2007 I have found that using objects the same shape as the portion your sanding works well. I bought a package of rubber sanding "blocks" at Woodcraft. They are various radius's and edge angle pieces. Fairly cheap - about 7 or 8 bucks. Very worth it. Stiff rubber is good against the wood cause it gives. Sharp edges are kept sharp by sanding both planes to each other, sorta creating the edge. I have an unorthodox way of not leaving sanding scratches when grain and shape contradict one another. The paper is moved in the direction of the grain while held to the shape of the stock. Hard to explain in words. I refinished a Ruger #1 that has good figure along the top of the buttstock. Sanding in line with the top, front to back which would seem natural, left scratches. I followed the grain pattern slowly while maintaining the curve and all went well. I was told this is incorrect, but you can't tell by this stock. The fun was the radius groove that runs across the forend tip. And it's tapered wider in the center. A .223 shell fit just right. Just twisted it while moving so not to make flats. I learned alot with this stock as I sanded it about 4x with tung oil to fill the grain then about ten more times sanding in the oil finish stopping at 4000 grit micromesh. Man, I'm sorry about the babbling. I hope there's some good in it for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skeeter2859 Posted January 6, 2007 Report Share Posted January 6, 2007 Fancy stock seem to have grain going in 4 directions at once. I don't sand with the grain 100% of the time. When I sand cross grain, I use finner grit paper. It takes longer but works good in the end. I have good luck keeping the edges sharp with scrappers. I have made some small ones out of utility knife blades. Once I get a nice sharp edge (on wood or metel), I tape it off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron J Posted January 7, 2007 Report Share Posted January 7, 2007 I have not tried scrapers for finish work, but I see them for sale. Should try it - sounds good. What does taping the edge do, protect it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skeeter2859 Posted January 7, 2007 Report Share Posted January 7, 2007 Yea the tape protects while sanding near the edge. It also works good for buffing metal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron J Posted January 7, 2007 Report Share Posted January 7, 2007 I would have thought the tape edge would break down easily. I will try it for sure as this Kale has poor edges to begin with and all the work so far has been files, stones and paper. Thanks for the tip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cold shot Posted January 7, 2007 Report Share Posted January 7, 2007 Walnut, I use body shop masking tape as it is easier to curve an thetape will peel off easier. DAVE Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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