ken98k Posted January 22, 2007 Report Share Posted January 22, 2007 I just finished a 7x57 k-kale thats been cluttering my already cluttered bench. I tried Art's Belgian Blue and I'm not happy with the the outcome. Started out like this Action stripped New bolt handle Action ready for assembly Checking head space attaching barrel Home made reamer wrench Finish reaming Inletting Fagen stock. It was inletted for A&B F44 but I used there light contour, so it's definately free floated My blueing setup Completed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slseacrist Posted January 22, 2007 Report Share Posted January 22, 2007 Looks like a great job. You should be proud. Your last close up pic, is blurry, but it looks as if it the bluing has a plum color. If that is so… I had the same problem on a extractor I blued for my father. I found this info. http://www.e-gunparts.com/forum/searchread...47576&cat=7 on it. But I did not use it. After all, my dad turned out to like the plum extractor. BTW Handy tool, I have used the extension, but never took it one step further to make the handle. I think I will find an old socket tomorrow and whip one up. thanks. SlSeacrist Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsefly Posted January 22, 2007 Report Share Posted January 22, 2007 Thanks for the pics Kenny! You done good.Someone that never built a rifle would think from reading your post that you decided one evening after supper you decided to build a gun,but we know different.That's a dandy rifle!Your a pretty good cheerleader,'cause you got me wanting to get some of my projects finished.Good post.Jerry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken98k Posted January 22, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2007 Thanks for the pics Kenny! You done good.Someone that never built a rifle would think from reading your post that you decided one evening after supper you decided to build a gun,but we know different.That's a dandy rifle!Your a pretty good cheerleader,'cause you got me wanting to get some of my projects finished.Good post.Jerry There are some members here that can and do, decide to whip up a rifle in short order. I actually worked on this one off and on for 3 years as time and $ permitted. there are several things I don't like about this one and will do diferently next time, but it "feels good" unlike some rifles I've handled. The stock was made for a A&B F34 contour but I used a F14 so the inletting isn't perfect. I'll probably re-blue (someday) I used a Bold Optima trigger with side safety and was a little suprized to find I can operate the bolt with the safety on. Now if it'll shoot! Kenny Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doble Troble Posted January 22, 2007 Report Share Posted January 22, 2007 Nice rifle, Kenak! I like the reamer handle too. I need to make one of those. Finishing a chamber with the receiver installed is the way to go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z1r Posted January 23, 2007 Report Share Posted January 23, 2007 Nice rifle, Kenak! I like the reamer handle too. I need to make one of those. Finishing a chamber with the receiver installed is the way to go. I just can't get into that. Why bother with a lathe if you're gonna switch to a method that allows error? Just my thoughts. Very nice rifle! Bet it feels real good to have it finished up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doble Troble Posted January 23, 2007 Report Share Posted January 23, 2007 Z, You're the last person I'd argue with on something gunsmith related, and I agree that there's less to go wrong with the chamber when finishing it in the lathe. The problem I have finishing in a lathe is getting the headspace dead on like I want it. This isn't so bad with Mausers, but with Garands its a real pain. I can see the necessity of a lathe in getting a chamber roughed, but for the last few turns with very little pressure just to get the bolt to close I just don't see the problem. It seems to me that with a piloted reamer and an essentially fully cut chamber that you'd have to try really hard to get it going the wrong way - like trying to move a hole once its drilled. But this is an uneducated opinion on my part - I've never directly compared a lathe finished verses hand finished chambers which would be the important test. For you guys out there who what to do it right, take Z's advice and finish on a lathe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z1r Posted January 23, 2007 Report Share Posted January 23, 2007 Z, You're the last person I'd argue with on something gunsmith related, and I agree that there's less to go wrong with the chamber when finishing it in the lathe. The problem I have finishing in a lathe is getting the headspace dead on like I want it. This isn't so bad with Mausers, but with Garands its a real pain. I can see the necessity of a lathe in getting a chamber roughed, but for the last few turns with very little pressure just to get the bolt to close I just don't see the problem. It seems to me that with a piloted reamer and an essentially fully cut chamber that you'd have to try really hard to get it going the wrong way - like trying to move a hole once its drilled. But this is an uneducated opinion on my part - I've never directly compared a lathe finished verses hand finished chambers which would be the important test. For you guys out there who what to do it right, take Z's advice and finish on a lathe. A gunsmith buddy and I were just talking about this very subject tonight and both agreed that for bolt guns we'd finish in a lathe and that for gas guns like the Garand a pull through reamer would be prefered. I have to say that at this point this is purely conjecture on my part because, believe it or not, I've never done a garand. I'm waiting to get my first. We were talking and agreed that the pull through reamers have any torsional loads limited by the pilot since they are applied to the front and since limited by the bore are very small indeed. While a standard reamer has any loads applied at the rear where the pilot cannot limit the amount of sideways force. Granted, for the most part, the error induced will likely be small but why subject yourself to that when you can limit it in the lathe. Anyway, again, a nice gun Ken and don't let the German in me detract from a job well done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FC Posted January 23, 2007 Report Share Posted January 23, 2007 The pictures are "X". Are they working for everyone else? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GA1dad Posted January 23, 2007 Report Share Posted January 23, 2007 Working for me, click in the "black" area. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken98k Posted January 23, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2007 I just can't get into that. Why bother with a lathe if you're gonna switch to a method that allows error? Just my thoughts. Very nice rifle! Bet it feels real good to have it finished up. I finish reamed this one almost a year ago, before I had a lathe. I would like to use the lathe on the next one I do but I'm not really sure how to hold the reamer for this proceedure. Yes, I'm very happy to have it finished and off my bench! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z1r Posted January 23, 2007 Report Share Posted January 23, 2007 See, I knew there was a good reason. How to hold the reamer for chambering in general or for the last few thou? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken98k Posted January 24, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2007 See, I knew there was a good reason. How to hold the reamer for chambering in general or for the last few thou? How to hold it in general. Some sort of tool holder? Kenny Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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