Trigger Problem

[bja105]

First , I like two stage triggers. The trigger on my 24/47 has a too light second stage. Usualy the rifle fire at the end of the first stage. If I pull the trigger very slowly, I get asecond stage, but it is too light to use. Its like first stage is 5.0 lbs, and second is 5.1 lbs.

 

I noticed that the cocking piece moves back during the first stage of the trigger pull. I stoned the two sears square (or at least square-er). The cocking piece doesn't move back anymore, but now it is even smoother, and the initial problem seems worse.

 

It seems that if I ground down the front bump on the trigger, the second would do more of the work, and maybe thesecond stage would be more substantial. I tried to stone the front bump, but I don't think I went far enough to make a difference.

 

Eventualy I will start swapping parts, but for now I want to use what I have. Any ideas?

[Racepres]

My friend was complaining of exactly the same thing w/ a K.Kale just this afternoon! Gonna look at it tomorrow. Does yours seem to have a long pull?? Will let ya know what we find! MV

[bja105]

Ist stage is not that long, maybe slightly heavy, but not much different from the rest. There is a definate stop between the two humps.

[Racepres]

Well.. Sounds a bit different from his description. I'm waitin' for him to bring it over... Will keep ya posted. MV

[tinkerfive]

Have you checked for the "%" of sear engagement?

 

I'm wondering if just the bottom of the cocking piece sear face and the top of the trigger sear face

are mating.

 

Tinker

[Guest Guest]

Have you checked for the "%" of sear engagement?

 

I'm wondering if just the bottom of the cocking piece sear face and the top of the trigger sear face

are mating.

 

Tinker

 

I think you may be right. If that is the case, I'll have to swap parts to solve it.

[bilurey]

One not so tricky trigger trick used to be filing or grinding off the bottom of the forward foot of the cocking piece, thus decreasing it's depth of engagement with the sear and producing a lighter trigger pull in the second stage. It works, but, there's no sharp stop at the end of the first stage pull, just a slippery slide to BANG. It also increases the trigger overtravel considerably. I have a M98 sporter with a 3 position Win. (Tally?) shroud safety, a G&H scope mount, and a club foot cocking piece. Great rifle with a really lousy trigger pull. If I swap the cocking piece, I'll have to have the right side of the cocking piece hand fitted to the Tally safety's cam arm by my millionaire gun smith.

 

A decent adjustable trigger is the best answer, but, squaring and smoothing the faces of the cocking piece and sear nose work well. The trigger tension spring can be very carefully ground down and lighten the pull also. Don't try to grind down the forward hump on the top of the trigger, it never seems to work out well at all.

 

Over the years I've become a fair authority on what not to do with a gun, the authority comes from having done just about every wrong thing possible and learning the hard way. Bill

 

PS I lied about my gunsmith being a millionaire, but he's working at it.