J-b Weld And A Beer Can

[fritz]

This falls into the category of jerry-rigging, but we have been there before and got distracted, etc.

 

With my favorite sweetheart tractor in the shop for a check-up, I went to a backup tractor today to start cutting hay again. No telling how long it will be before my David Brown is checked out and returned to service. So I hooked the cutter to my old Ford 4600 diesel, that has a loader on it.

 

After a few rounds I noticed smoke coming from under the hood. I shut 'er down and raised the hood. There was a leaking manifold pipe that leads to a muffler under the running boards (yes, they still have them on tractors). It was causing enough heat to smolder the oil buildup on the engine (no, I had not pressure washed the engine in some time).

 

I got on the phone and called around for a new exhaust pipe, the underslung muffler type. They are not available, and when I looked closer, I saw that when they put the loader on the tractor they installed a crossmember that basically boxed in the exhaust pipe (which looks like a snake, it has so many bends).

 

There is no way to install a new pipe without removing all the loader mounting brackets. So I order a new manifold and muffler that goes upright (an option from the factory when the tractor was sold). In the meantime, I need to keep using the tractor, so I took some J-B Weld in the industrial size tubes and spread it over the cracked pipe. Then I cut a piece out of a beer can (it was a Milwaukee's Best Light can) and slit it to make a sleeve over the still soft J-B Weld. Added a few gear clamps to hold everything together (I could have used baling wire, but I am more sophisticated than that).

 

Tomorrow we shall see. The J-B Weld is only recommended for up to 600 degrees, and I am sure the temp at the manifold is higher than that. But that is all I had at the time. Jerry-rigging has worked for me before, and who knows, maybe I will not need to install the new manifold and muffler.

 

But like a good Boy Scout (I never was one), I am prepared.

 

fritz

 

 

[roscoedoh]

Fritz,

 

Let me know how the JB weld holds up for you. There is a section of pipe that runs from the exhaust manifold to the catalytic converter on my truck that has a Y in it right were it meets the exhaust manifold. Also keep in mind that my truck was made in 1994 and the pipe is exposed to a lot of heat being that close to the engine. I had some work done on the engine last year and mechanic accidentally whacked the exhaust manifold and knocked a big crack in the Y pipe. I can't blame him for it - the pipe was old[/] and probably would have broken at the next big bump in the road anyhow.

 

Anyway, so I've got this huge crack that is leaking exhaust gases into the cab and sounds like crap. I tried to weld it shut, but the pipe was too rotten. Then, someone suggested JB cold weld (high temp too if I recall correctly) and I tried it. I wire brushed the area, slathered it on and let it set up all night. The next day as I was driving into work the JB held...until the engine warmed up. Then I has a cracked, crappy sounding exhaust system that was leaking gas into the cab and smelled like a burn barrel! Ole Faithful found herself at Ed's Muffler the very next day and I got the problem fixed post haste.

 

To make a long story short, I did not find JB Weld to be up to their "fix-it-all" greatness when it came to exhaust manifold temperatures.

 

 

[fritz]

Jason,

 

The reason your J-B Weld did not hold is because you left out the beer can!

 

Now, if I had been smart, I would have used one of those new insulated beer cans that Coor's Light comes in. You can never be too safe.

 

fritz

[roscoedoh]

Fritz,

 

That's because my buddies drank all the beer and ran off with the cans! I had to get to the store to replenish my supply and by then I didn't have a beer can to spare!

[karlunity]

fritz.

 

Well done.

Any one can buy a part and have it installed.

It takes a good man to improvise.

 

Karl

[odies dad]

Used to be able to get muffler patch, which was a paste that you would glob into the crack and it would harden. That was more heat resistant.

It most likely had asbestos in it, so it probably isn't available anymore.

[swamprat]

fritz,

If the JB don't hold get some wood stove patching cement and use it with the beer can.

 

Swamprat

[Doble Troble]

This might work too (under the beer can): Refractory cement.

[fritz]

Thanks, fellows

 

I thought of that furnace cement when I was in the big town today. I had to drive all across town to a small hardware store where I knew was the only place to find it. Sure enough, a pound can of furnace cement (good for up to 3000 degrees) only costs four bucks.

 

It has no asbestos in it anymore, so I wonder if it will be as good as the old stuff with asbestos. I used to repair cast iron wood stoves with the stuff, and it worked.

 

I have a friend who has promised to bring me some thin stainless shim material from his job site. But right now the J-B Weld and the beer can are holding. Jason---I know what you mean about J-B Weld's fumes when it melts. After the tractor motor warmed up, I could smell the stuff melting and burning. But the beer can and the clamps kept it from leaking exhaust gas.

 

My plan is to remove the J-B Weld and replace it with the furnace cement, then place the stainless shim material around it as a sleeve. Add clamps and cross my fingers.

 

Do you know the difference between jerry-rigging and German engineering? German engineering is having all the material needed to do the job on hand. Jerry-rigging is German engineering without the materials on hand.

 

I am a German engineer, in addition to being a Gentleman farmer.

 

BTW, that J-B Weld stinks when it melts, as you said.

 

fritz

 

 

[Horsefly]

I'm an expert jerry-rigger.I grew up calling it the N-word rigging,but now I jerry-rig.Jerry

[Emul8]

Horsefly --

 

Your comments on "N-rigging" remind me (particularly today, it bein' Father's Day and all) of what my Dad used to refer to in place of "N-rigging". He called it "Afro-engineering". The phrase still pops into my head whenever I am forced to improvise some sort of fix on my own.

 

The fix that fritz improvised is quite good, and I hope that it holds up. Back in the '80s, I had to "fix" my truck's exhaust pipe with some muffler tape and a beer can (from the bed of the truck), I added a couple of twists of baling wire for effect. The fix held up just fine, and was duly admired by the mechanic who inspected my truck during its annual "check up" for the state sticker. I left the fix in place even when I sold the truck...it was so solid I'd be willing to bet it's STILL on the truck!

 

[cold shot]

this is how you jerririg a bedframe

[Dr.Hess]

I believe the acceptable phrase is "Aggie Rigging."

 

Dr.Hess

 

[fritz]

"I believe the acceptable phrase is "Aggie Rigging."

 

Dr.Hess"

 

That may be so, Docktor, but what an Aggie puts together is, at best, questionable. I would sooner go with Sooner or UT rigging. We have all heard enough about the Aggies (in jokes, some are true).

 

fritz

 

[Horsefly]

Hi Emmy!!! You made my day seeing your post.I've heard jerry-riggin called "Southern Engineering" alot too.How do you like New Mexico? Jerry

[BobVZ]

In a previous career I used to call on farmers in eastern SC. One farmer told me that during WW2 his father had several German POW's working on the farm. When a 4 cylinder tractor engine broke a connecting rod his father thought he would have to have the engine rebuilt. A POW said he could fix it and sure enough, he turned it into a 3 cylinder engine! He said it sounded rough but it ran and served for many years thereafter. I guess that could be called "gerry rigging" if anything could.