Guest oldbikewrench Posted August 19, 2007 Report Share Posted August 19, 2007 Just wondering, I have a Brownells Action Wrench for Large and Small Mausers, SMLE's, and for the M1917/P14's, is there a head that will fit to any of those wrenches that will work on the various Mosins? And what about the hex receivers on the M91/30's, my guess would be that they would need a different head just for themselves. I wouldn't have this problem if it weren't for folks like fmsniper . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RGRWJB Posted August 21, 2007 Report Share Posted August 21, 2007 I have never heard of people taking the barrels off of these guns. Let us know how it goes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gun nutty Posted August 21, 2007 Report Share Posted August 21, 2007 If these barrels are set as tightly as I've heard, and if you're not saving the barrel, why not just cut a groove immediately in front of the receiver using a lathe? Although I've not tried it, I've also heard a hacksaw can used to cut a groove in the absence of a lathe. That groove will loosen the pressure between the barrel and the receiver, allowing turning-out the barrel with little force and reducing potential damage to the receiver. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtyjim Posted January 3, 2008 Report Share Posted January 3, 2008 i think i remember seeing somewhere that the head for a rem 700 on a mauser handle will work on a round receiver mosin. i used my homebuilt action wrench on mine & the barrel wasn't as tight as i tought it would be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z1r Posted January 7, 2008 Report Share Posted January 7, 2008 Just wondering, I have a Brownells Action Wrench for Large and Small Mausers, SMLE's, and for the M1917/P14's, is there a head that will fit to any of those wrenches that will work on the various Mosins? And what about the hex receivers on the M91/30's, my guess would be that they would need a different head just for themselves. I wouldn't have this problem if it weren't for folks like fmsniper . I used my LR Mauser head and made a bushing. Woked like a charm. In fact, thats how I take my SR mauser barrels off too. On the Hex receivers I'd make a thinner bushing and use accraglass to conform to the hex. Just be sure to use plenty of release agent (paste wax). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roscoedoh Posted January 7, 2008 Report Share Posted January 7, 2008 Z, How many M-N barrels have you pulled? With their current prices and my C&R license, I've been tempted to buy a couple more and try rebarreling one. How difficult is that to do? -Jason Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtyjim Posted January 7, 2008 Report Share Posted January 7, 2008 i've only pulled one & it came off relativly easy. i'm going to rebarrel it with a .308 bore barrel. sarco has p-h target barrels that are pitted at the chamber end for $40 so i'm going to order one of those & see if i cam make it work by facing off some of the end of it then rethreading it. if you have a spare sporter barrel thats already threaded for a lr mauser you may be able to turn the original treads off , set the shoulder back then rethread it for the mosin. od of the threads on my mosin barrel are .980 & most lr mauser barrels should clean up very close to that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tinkerfive Posted January 8, 2008 Report Share Posted January 8, 2008 i. od of the threads on my mosin barrel are .980 & most lr mauser barrels should clean up very close to that. What is the TPI for the mosin barrel threads? Tinker Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spiris Posted January 8, 2008 Report Share Posted January 8, 2008 According to this site, barrel shank is .975 with 16 tpi. http://7.62x54r.net/MosinID/MosinSpec.htm Spiris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z1r Posted January 8, 2008 Report Share Posted January 8, 2008 Z, How many M-N barrels have you pulled? With their current prices and my C&R license, I've been tempted to buy a couple more and try rebarreling one. How difficult is that to do? -Jason Jason, I've only pulled one. It came off easily. It was a darn nice barrel. Sadly, when I moved the barrel got left behind. Gotta expect some casualties in an operation of that size. All I can remember about the barrel is the extractor cut. Anyone got a crapped out barrel or even just the first four inches? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
riflecrankdotcom Posted February 14, 2008 Report Share Posted February 14, 2008 I've pulled one using my Midway action wrench for Mauser/Springy. It came off easily, but it was a low-mileage M44. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plumbum Posted September 29, 2009 Report Share Posted September 29, 2009 I realize this is a resurrection, but.... I just R&R'd a 1946 M44 barrel with brownell's wrench. SR mauser head and a shim of 110 copper, fit like a glove. only mild force needed on a 4' cheater. no problems at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sonic1 Posted September 30, 2009 Report Share Posted September 30, 2009 i pulled 2 m44 ...i thought the barrels must have been welded on.. they were so tight.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brokengun Posted October 2, 2009 Report Share Posted October 2, 2009 The info that I have is that the MN has a shank diameter of .980 with 16 tpi with a shank length of .937 I do know that the thread is also timed for the extractor cut to line up properly. I’ve often wondered what it would be like to make a new bolt head and allow the action to use other cartridges other than the Russian 7.62x54R Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plumbum Posted October 2, 2009 Report Share Posted October 2, 2009 300 wsm will clean up the chamber and fit the bolt face. MUA HA HA HAAAAA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brokengun Posted October 7, 2009 Report Share Posted October 7, 2009 Just looked up the case head size for 300 WSM and it looks like it would fit but WOW! Is that thing ever a screamer! Has anyone chambered a Mosin Nagant to 300 WSM? I’m looking for some load data on the round while typing; my first thoughts are that the chamber pressure will be a little high for the Mosin Nagant but… Found it! Oh my GOD! The 300 WSM has a maximum chamber pressure of 53,000-64,800 cup with the average being around 60,000 That’s a bit much for the MN with its medium carbon steel receiver Ok I just found the start load data and its more to earth 37,800-46,400 cup Phew… Ok it looks like as long as you don’t hot load the 300WSM they will work just fine in fact it may make that old MN one damn cheap long range shooter Has anyone tried to see if the 300WSM will feed through the MN magazine? Load data on 300WSM http://www.accuratepowder.com/data/PerCaliber2Guide/Rifle/Standarddata(Rifle)/308Cal(7.82mm)/300%20WSM%20Winchester%20Short%20Magnum.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gun nutty Posted October 7, 2009 Report Share Posted October 7, 2009 The .300 WSM is a poor choice for the MN action, aside from feeding and conversion issues; it's too fat of a case for the barrel shank. You have a very high pressure cartridge with thin chamber walls. I think the MN has many features in it's favor strength and safety wise, including the locking lug arrangement in relation to the feed ramp. On a Mauser, the weakest locking lug (slotted) has the most support resting in the upper receiver; the strongest locking lug (unslotted) is support by the weaker lug recess, that being the lower recess weakened by cutting out metal for the feed ramp. The MN has two massive locking lugs, both unslotted, and they both sit in the sides of the front ring where no metal has been removed. The designer(s) of the MN really put some thought into designing the strongest lug arrangement possible. Despite this additional strength, I'd target cartridges that respect the varying metallury and dates of manufacture of the MN action. The biggest hurdle in changing the MN's chambering is finding a cartridge that actually will feed and function. A by-product of the MN's odd locking lug arrangement is that the action is built around the 7.62X54 cartridge in every way. Look at the MN's feed ramp. It does have one, by the way. It sits midway in the magazine area. Cartridge length, taper, and shoulder angle all come into play. If you change any one of these factors to any significant degree, the round won't feed. Take some empty cases and try feeding them through the action; the round must be wide enough to get captured by the magazine interrupter. .303 British, 30/30 Win, and any other round simply slips past the interrupter. A couple of interesting candidates are the 7X57, .308 Win, 6.5X55. The rimless rounds mentioned (especially the 6.5X55) feed fairly well, but you run into... RIM DIAMETER! The MN case has a large rim that doesn't come close to another modern cartridge still in use. Without significantly modifying the bolt head (or making a new one outright), the rimless as well as smaller rimmed cartridges just won't get grabbed by the extractor or centered by the boltface for proper feeding. The good news is that the Finns actually "wild-catted" the 7.62X54 case both up and down in a number of calibers. A number of folks on the board seem most interested in a 6.5X54R and have a reamer ordered as part of the co-op exchange. I'd leave it as a 7.62X54, rebarrel it as a 6.5X54 of some other MN derivative cartridge, or be prepared for some headaches. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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