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Military Firearm Restoration Corner

Exterior House Paint


AzRednek

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I've got two houses spray painted three years ago with Home Depot's Behr brand. Both houses failed the Section 8 inspection and have to have the exterior painted with one needing some intense scraping. I have over 5 years on Kmart's Dutch Boy brand on another and it is hanging in there. It has faded some, is powdering off but at least it is not peeling away like Home Depot's manure and should be good for a few more years. What brand of exterior house paint have you guy used?? Were you satisifed with it?? Did you spray or roll it on?? One thing for sure I'll never buy BEHR brand house paint again. Don't get sucked in like I did thinking you're saving 40-50 bux.

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We've been using Sears Weatherbeater for over 30 years and have never had any problems.No telling who makes it for them though.My wife loves to paint,so our house gets painted every other year,so I reckon that's why it's holding up so well.I've sprayed a lot of house when I was painting on the side trying to survive,and the Sears paint sprayed real well.We use rollers and brushes on our house. Jerry

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Not to hijack, but 10 years ago my wife decided our solid wood front door needed to be red. 80 yr old house and probably 10 coats of paint on the door. So I stripped it bare then sanded it. It looked new. I primed it with Behr primer from HD. It would'nt dry. 3 days later I scraped it all back off still tacky. I was ready to kill someone. This thing has 8 windows and is quite a job. I called everyone and someone from HD "mentioned" that they had some issues with the Behr paint lately. I painted it with 2 coats of Sherwin Williams, no primer and it looks like I did it yesterday. Our house faces west and gets all afternoon sun. I need not say what I buy and don't buy since.

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I bet Arizona is the toughest test on paint in the U.S.

 

Arizona is at a disadavantage with the sun and heat but it rarely drops below freezing and there isn't a moisture problem to deal with. When it gets hot and dry, old paint often powders away and one can usually paint right over the top. One house was undercoated with Killz to cover Mexican green and orange. The primer is still hanging tough but the Home Depot garbage paint is peeling away from it.

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I had my house completely remodeled 11 years ago, tore out all the old wood siding (or covered it with hardboard siding where it was still solid) then my neighbor, who is a professional painter, painted everything, inside and out, with DeVoe paint. It has held up well.

 

Now, I am considering having him repaint it, and he now uses Scherwin Williams paint exclusively. He paints houses for a living, so I trust him.

 

BTW, we paint exterior with brushes. Rolling is only done on drywall inside. Brushes do the trim.

 

I didn't know about that Sears/Scherwin Williams connection, but it makes sense. They sell a lot of paint. And have a lot of happy customers.

 

fritz

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I talked with my handyman earlier tonight, he wont use Behr paint anymore either. I'm going to try Sherwin-Williams. I checked their price several years ago and couldn't get them to give me any kind of contractor's discount. I can usually use my business license to BS my way into a discount at like a plumber's supply, floor tile etc. Apparently Sherwin-Williams doesn't fall for it.

 

 

 

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Yes, I know about having that BS work sometimes (as to a contractor/professional), as I had my first encounter with the welding supply company work out favorably, but only by answering the salesman's question "Who are you with"?

 

I simply told him to give me his best price on the oxygen and welding supplies I needed, and if he didn't meet the price I was willing to pay----he would never see me again.

 

I got a good price, and go back when I need any welding supplies. As a self-employed farmer/rancher, I sometimes get sick and tired of the question "Who are you with"?

 

Sherlock Holmes would tell them, "The answer is elementary. It is me".

 

fritz

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I had a short venture in the paint business. The previous owner had A B and C price lists we adopted. A was the the retail price, B was for somebody like a school district, church or a govt agency and C was the legitimate paint contractor. Had even a lower price, paint store to another. The B price would go to those such as me that came in with a BS line usually looking for enough paint to do their house. The BS-ing B-list customer would rarely buy canned colors so we would make up for it charging for tinting.

 

When I worked in auto parts, seemed everybody got the discount and we had as many as 4 different price sheets depending on the type and brand. Occasionally it got us into trouble when a customer would buy it and take to one of our grand plus a month customers and ask him to install it. The garage owner would complain like hell if a walk-in customer bought it for anywhere near what his cost was.

 

We sold welding supplies in the auto parts store. Most customers didn't mind paying a bit more even with their discount if they could save a drive into Phoenix. If I remember correctly our welding supplies were marked up 10% higher than suggested retail and we were cheaper than the hardware store that got their supplies delivered on the same truck.

 

It is alot harder now days BS-ing a discount with name dropping. I tried it recently buying a screen for my clothes dryer at an appliance parts house. He looked up the name on his computer and said something about not buying anything in over two years. I hijacked the name from one of my postal customers that repaired washers and dryers in his back yard.

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I went ahead and bought Sherwin-Williams. I managed to lie my way into a discount by exaggurating about the number of houses I own and will be painting. Seemed to work well when I told him I painted several houses with Behr. He was convinced I'd be back for more and set up a new account. I hired a handyman to do the painting and he is going to hire some wets to do the scraping. You should have heard my Mexican tennant complain about my choice of flat Navajo white. She assumed she had the choice and I had to tell her to look in the contract. This is not BS, she wanted the block semi gloss turquoise and the wood trim dark green!! I agreed to let her, at her own expense paint the phony wind shutters any color she wanted. I figured I could cover it up easy if she moves but not to likely being that the city pays apx 80% of her rent. One thing I learned in the paint business. Navajo white, an off white is loaded with pigmant and covers good. It is easy to match if I have to cover grafetti and can usually hide it in two coats sometimes without primer.

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Navajo white is one of the colors that my TSC store had on the closeout shelf, I guess they don't sell much of it here. Or it could be the fact that it was for metal buildings, and you don't need to repaint those often.

 

I sometimes look on the closeout shelf for implement paint in dented cans, that they discount to a little of nothing. If I want to repaint an old trailer that has no color left, it matters not if it will be blue or brown. They are both good for trailers, and the paint in the dented cans is good.

 

With the tractor and implement paint (enamel) I always use the hardener with them. It drys faster, and holds up better than without it.

 

I won't be needing any John Deere green paint anytime soon, since I just bought a new JD tractor and loader. My trade-in needed repainting bad, but I still got a good price for it. For me, there is nothing like that JD green and yellow.

 

They have a patent on that color combination.

 

How many of you know that the leaping deer on the tractors made since around 1940 have two legs showing, while the real old John Deeres had a four legged deer?

 

Just a bit of info I learned from the RFDTV channel.

 

fritz

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They have a patent on that color combination.

 

 

fritz

 

There was a guy in Phoeninx that was buying old used Coleman lanterns, painting them John Deere green and replacing the Coleman decal with the running deer. He was making way to much money and all of a sudden stopped selling the so-called John Deere lanterns. I imagine JD got on his or Ebay's case over it.

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That Rustoleum Professional is good stuff too, and not expensive. I dunno about doing a house with it, but a lot of people are doing cars with the stuff. I'm going to paint my Lotus 7 clone in Hunter Green and Safety Yellow.

 

Saw this in Sturgis this year and last:

TractorTrike2.jpg

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fritz,what deere did you get? Your well must have come in.I've been looking at front end loader tractors,used,but can't justify one for my 21/2 acre ranchette.I have a creek that cuts off maybe an acre of this place that I have hell keeping a crossing in good enough shape to drive a mower across to keep it mowed.Everytime it rains,which isn't often,it washes out.I'm either going to have to get a loader or pour a concrete slab across it like they use to do around here for low water crossings on county roads.My brother-in-law bought a 26 horse Kabota with a bucket,and it just aint got enough pukey to dig gravel.I think I'd need a 40 to 50 horse,and that's where the price really climbs.I'd like to see a picture of your new baby.Congrats fritz. Jerry

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Jerry,

First off, my well did not come in, but it was the lease money I got back in the spring that allowed me to trade now instead of next year. I need all the deductions I can get, especially since we were forced into selling some stock we did not want to sell. But, that's the way corporation takeovers go. Damned lucky I did not have Enron stock!

 

The tractor is a new '08 model that my dealer just got in, he didn't even have the brochures on it. But what do brochures tell you better than actually getting behind the wheel tells you? It is a 64 horsepower four wheel drive. I have never had a four wheel drive tractor, but have often seen the need for one in loader work. That is what this tractor is for- stricttly loader work.

 

BTW, John Deere is starting to market tractors that are rather basic, no fancy frills and stuff, and are lowering the list price below the foreign tractors' list price. Mine has all the features I wanted, and none of the stuff that causes trouble (like a hydraulic clutch). I refuse to buy another mid-size tractor with a hydraulic clutch, when the mechanical linkage works just fine on the mid-size tractors.

 

And when I got to thinking about it, I have not bought a brand-new tractor in over 20 years. Oh sure, I bought like-new ones (those like a demo in the car business), but not brand-spanking new. My trade-in was a '78 model, and I got four thousand more for it than it was worth (to me).

 

Here's a pic---with the owner in the driver's seat---

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0603/fritz/100_0122.jpg

 

 

fritz

 

 

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Gosh Almighty dang that's a fine looking rig.The owner looks awful proud of it too.That top looks like diamond plate.The big fourwheel drive tires on front sure make it look like it means business.I was telling my buddy at work about you getting a new Deere,and the first thing he said was,I hope he doesn't get the hydralic clutch.He's had pure hell out of his.If only you were my neighbor! Jerry

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