Full Length Vs. Neck

[Brenden]

hello all, got a q.... What is your alls opinions on full length sizing vs. neck sizing. I'll be shooting the same gun (Bolt action, and single shot t/c) for the ammo i make. I've heard pros and cons of both, but now i want the experts opinion. thanks.

Brenden

[AzRednek]

Generally speaking neck sizing only leads to more accurate ammo. You wont really know until you reload using both methods and compare the results. For comparison sake you need to keep the loads identical. Same powder charge, primer brand bullet depth etc. Chances are good the neck sized brass will do a little better.

 

[Brenden]

az, by neck sizing, I've heard this will increase life of a shell, by keeping streching to a minimum. true? also, after a while of neck sizing, is it neccessary to run the fl sizer over it due to case expansion, like if it were getting harder to extract spent cases from chamber? thanks for the info.

[AzRednek]

az, by neck sizing, I've heard this will increase life of a shell, by keeping stretching to a minimum. true?

 

True with a “but”, bottle neck brass usually wears out or fails in the neck first, usually split necks. Brass like any other metal, if you work it back and forth enough, it splits then breaks. Generally speaking the less you work the brass the longer it lasts. Using a Lee neck sizer that gently squeezes the neck to a mandrel will put a lot less fatigue than a full length sizer that squeezes it down undersized in the down stroke, then stretches it out over an expander ball in the upstroke.

 

also, after a while of neck sizing, is it neccessary to run the fl sizer over it due to case expansion, like if it were getting harder to extract spent cases from chamber?

 

That has been my experience, but by the time it reaches that point the brass has pretty well seen a good portion of it’s useful life. Full length sizing it will bump the shoulder back or reduce the diameter of a belted mag’s belt, making insertion and extraction easier. After full length sizing of brass that has for the most part been neck sized only it will also likely need to be trimmed and depending on how hot you’re loading it you might get a few more loadings out of it. If the brass is getting difficult to extract the yellow flag should go up as a sign of excessive pressure. thanks for the info.

[Brenden]

thanks az, i'll take the knowlege you gave me and apply it to the field

Brenden

[karlunity]

I vote for neck sizing.

 

The results are more accurate shot groups and you dont have to lube the case.

Dont't forget to crimp..

 

Take care

karl

[roscoedoh]

I will neck size reloaded ammunition when I am reloading for a single rifle only with some exception*. I full length size when I am reloading ammunition to feed to multiple rifles. The reason being, just as every rifle barrel is an individual, so too are their chambers. And what fits the chamber in Rifle A precisely and accurately may not even feed in Rifle B. The best way to prevent that is to full length size which brings the cartridge case back its accepted spec (CIP or SAAMI).

 

*The exception to this is when I load for Lee-Enfields. Lee-Enfield chambers are usually very generous and will cause your brass to stretch quite a bit when fired. However, you can get great brass life if you neck size. I bought a Lee neck sizer die set for my .303's and I've got some brass that's on its sixth or seventh firing.

 

If you want to try and neck size to wring the most accuracy you can out of your rifle, I recommend investing in a Lee neck sizing die. They're great for what you pay for them and worth every penny IMHO.

 

 

[Brenden]

thanks roscoedoh, I'm just loading for one rifle, i've heard before that neck sizing is a no-no for multiple firearms. I'll still check my length and trim accordingly. I've looked at the lee neck sizers, i own rcbs and lee and perfer the lee's. Do you all crimp when fl sizing, karl mentioned crimp for neck sizing, is it neccessary? I havn't crimped yet and am cabable of 1/2 groups outta my 7mag T/C and havn't had any problems with bullets moving in the clip of my other guns, just wondering if its a good idea to start doing so. Thanks

Brenden

[roscoedoh]

Brenden,

 

I crimp everything I reload. The only time I did not crimp my reloads, I got crappy accuracy. There are those who swear against crimping stating that all you need is neck tension. Then there are those who say you should crimp everything. I am in the "crimp it" camp. Your mileage may very of course.

 

-Jason

[Thor]

I crimp everything I reload. The only time I did not crimp my reloads, I got crappy accuracy.

I don't crimp and have had good success with what I shoot. I have a buddy down in Arkansas that tried Barnes in his Swedes and failed miserably. A point here, Barnes is one of those love/hate situations. Some people love them, others hate them. ANYWAY, on with the story. Arkie tried crimping his Barnes load and ended up with a one ragged-holer.

I guess someday I'll experiment with it to see what happens. After I get all my other projects out of the way.

 

 

[Doble Troble]

I neck size if I can and full length resize when I have to. But I only reload for specific guns.

 

If you're really anal you can set dies to just kiss the shoulder and get the best of both worlds. They always feed and they're always virtually minimum headspace and accurate.

 

Regarding crimping I avoid it when possible but most of the time it seems like its not possible to avoid. If I shoot from a magazine, I crimp. If the bullet I'm loading can be turned or otherwise moved by hand after being seated I crimp just until its firm. I don't crimp with a seating die. I have cheap but really effective Lee factory crimp dies for just about everything I load.

 

I think the key is to set dies up so that they move brass as little as possible to do what you need with 100 % reliability. Brass can last a long, long time if you do this.

[Thor]

If you're really anal you can set dies to just kiss the shoulder and get the best of both worlds.

Well, now I guess we know who the REAL A________ is around here. Move over, by your definition of partial resizing, I guess I'm one too.

 

Partial resizing is an art that I don't recommend to someone until they have mastered the basics. Redding makes, or at least they used to... a set of shellholders of different thicknesses. By kissing the shellholder to the dies (as discussed in another thread) as the reference point, you can change shellholders to achieve the desired setback. This works better than airgapping. I'm too cheap for that though, and since I have reloaded for several different rifles of same chamber (presently six 6.5x55) I generally resize all to the tightest chamber. I have a thick shellholder that works pretty good at that. I only have one of each of other chambers I reload for, so those can get necksized. But I prefer genuine necksize dies, not airgapping with full size dies.