Rehardening Cocking Pieces Question

[aaron10]

Ok guys help needed I got some more cocking pieces for some 1891 argentines some of them show wear from where the nose rides the rear of the bolt, the area below that rides the trigger sears are fine . A few I can restone , 2 may need to be rebuilt up with small weld and then cleaned up and reshaped what type of rod or wire do I need to use as a friend will weld them for me . Also what Im wondering is how to reharden them I have a can of casenite but will a propane torch be hot enough to use or do I need something hotter, and do I oil quench them or water quench them or just let them cool naturally . aaron10

[Vladymere]

Ok guys help needed I got some more cocking pieces for some 1891 argentines some of them show wear from where the nose rides the rear of the bolt, the area below that rides the trigger sears are fine . A few I can restone , 2 may need to be rebuilt up with small weld and then cleaned up and reshaped what type of rod or wire do I need to use as a friend will weld them for me . Also what Im wondering is how to reharden them I have a can of casenite but will a propane torch be hot enough to use or do I need something hotter, and do I oil quench them or water quench them or just let them cool naturally . aaron10

 

A propane torch may be enough since it is a small part. You'll have to try it and see.

 

The Kas-N-It should have directions on the can. I use this product also. If I recall correctly, heat the part untill it is a dull cherry red color then drop it into the Kas-N-It to coat it. Reheat the product to a dull cherry red and hold it at this color for 15 to 30 seconds, I'm working from memory here so the time duration may be wrong. Then drop the part into cold, running water. That part I remember.

 

I find that when heating the part after coating it with the Kas-N-It that it is hard to judge the color as the coating burns oarnge.

 

I heat my parts with an oxy-aceylene rig as that's what I have. I also use the oxy-acetylene to weld bolt handles on with. It's old school but it works. I allways have to reharden the bolt root and cocking piece chamfer after welding a bolt handle though when using the oxy-acetylene as it heats the whole end of the bolt up. It is not localized heat.

 

Vlad

[burgie]

I would use 70S rod for welding, it heat treats good and blues up well. This is the welding rod our welding teacher had us use on gun parts.

 

Burgie

[brokengun]

If you have an AC stick welder I would use a 7018AC Hobart rod

 

When I was done I would stress relieve the weld (heat to a dull red)with a propane or if a little more heat is needed MAP gas torch and let cool

 

I would then reheat the part to the point where it would no longer attract a magnet then I would quench in oil until cool

 

To anneal try covering it in sand on a cookie sheet and place in your house hold oven at the highest setting (550-600 degrees) for 1 hour and let cool

 

The part will be very hard but hopefully safe and useable

 

I would try this with the worse cocking piece you have.

 

However please remember that cocking pieces and sears are the key to safety and risking injury or life to save a few dollars isn’t worth it when replacements available.

 

Now if were talking survival or spare parts for emergency use then I would go ahead and try to repair the parts.

 

Just a few thoughts, I like to be on the safe side and I’m sure you do too

 

Brokengun

[Ron J]

Here's a thought for what it's worth. If someone has one of these cocking pcs that they are fairly sure is original and correctly hardened, but is bad for some other reason or dimensionally screwed up, I would be glad to check the heat treat on it. I could tell if it was case hardened, through hardened or both. I can determine case depth also. I have to destroy it to do this. Would this knowledge be of help to us as a group? It wouldn't be very hard to do - I have access to the equipment.

Just a thought.

Ron

[keninnmi]

I tried this a number of years ago with Kasenit, in the same way that I have hardened cold rolled steel, by following the directions on the can and then quenching the cocking piece in water. It eventually broke in service. The break showed a very rough, grainy surface. I probably got it too hot, but I am not really sure.