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Military Firearm Restoration Corner

Good Way To Clean A Cap And Ball Rifle.


karlunity

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You fellas know that I was given a .58 cap and ball rifle and being a former marine just had to find a way to clean it right.

 

(I went shooting Friday and had to stop shooting after 6 shots. Seems that you need to clean between shots or perhaps use extra lube, that is what the instructions that came with the bullets recomended...but who reads stinking instructions??? : ) )

 

Well, I poured hot water down the bore, after removing the barrel from the stock and the nipple from the rifle, and the water came out black.

 

I used the jag and bore bush and MP pro 7 to clean the bore, but something told me to check the rifle today.

 

So I ran a patch down the bore.

 

I was not happy with the chamber as the patches with a bit of dirt and RUST on the tip.

 

So, I took a old m-16 chamber bush, cut off the front part, leaving only the fat steel bristles wrapped a patch around it and went to work on the chamber.

 

Fellas, four patches came out with carbon or RUST..I soaked the chamber in Ed's red and let it sit.

 

A few more patches wrapped around the chamber brush and it was clean.

 

A final coat of Pro 7 and brushing and patches and finished with a coat of oil in the bore.

 

The best tool was the cut down 16 chamber brush, I gotta get a few more at the next show.

 

karl

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That's a dang good tip Karl.I don't use soap and water like most,'cause of the rust.I buy the big bottle of Hoppes and use TC Bore Butter.

I have a tip for you.Use Pyrodex or the new Clean Shot.Once I tried Pyrodex,I never looked back.The Clean Shot(I think it has a new name now) can be shot all day without cleaning between shots.I can get maybe 10 or 12 shots without running a patch in with Pyrodex,and that's lots of shots with a front-stuffer.True black powder is fun and neat with all the smoke and smell,but cleaning after a long day sucks. Jerry

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  • 3 weeks later...

Sparky, my flintlock, insists on real black powder. Pyrodex is great for reduced fouling, but a flaming pan of BP just won't ignite it through that little hole in the barrel.

 

So I deal with the fouling. Here's my prescription: A good brushing followed by two wet patches after each shot. Extra Crisco/beeswax on even pre-lubed patches.

 

I clean with hot soapy water after shooting and lube with 50:50 Crisco/beeswax. A toothpick plugs the touch hole. If you shoot it enough to justify having it, it's going to accumulate rust, there's just no way around it. There are two kinds of original muzzle loaders still around: those that are really corroded, and those that were rarely shot.

 

The most important thing: Keep petroleum oils as far away as possible. I don't understand the chemistry involved, but I do understand the consequences of mixing petroleum-based oil and black powder fouling: Tight-bonding, black, corrosive, concrete. Organic oils are essential: shortening, vegetable oil, unsalted lard, bear grease, anything but petro.

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