Trunk Gun Build

[Sailormilan2]

I have a Steyr 1912 action that is too pitted for a nice build, so I decided to put together a trunk gun. Sort of a beat around gun, that I don't have to worry about. I managed to pick up and install a commercial 30-06 barrel from Brad D last year at the local gunshow. From a Firearms Co. Alpine, Made in England. Barrel is D&T'd for sights, which I intend to install. I have so far, D&T'd the receiver, but I am not going to contour the rear bridge. I have a pitted 1909 Argie hinged trigger guard, that I have had to put together. I have lengthened the magazine well, by grinding and filing the insides of the front and back walls. So, it can now handle full length 30-06 ammo. Barreled action is going into one of those Butler Creek injection molded stocks used by Charles Dailey and Remington. Right now I am opening up the barrel channel to fit the barrel contour on the barrel. I need to find a Mk X trigger with sliding safety and get the bolt forged.

The current plan, is to parkerize with black park for weather protection. Then my options are:

#1. Leave it in black park, and put it in the black stock. Which has an advantage in that the pits will be much harder to see.

#2. Finish it in KG Coatings brushed Stainless Steel Bake On Paint. Which gives a very hard, smooth finish. Color is about 1 shade lighter than Ruger's SS finish. That would put a silver barreled receiver in a black stock. Which is kind of attractive. I have already done something similar with my 35 Whelen. However, the pits will be much more visable with the light color. First photo is what it would look like with the Brushed Stainless Steel finish. Next two photos are as it is now.

#3. Paint the barreled action in KG Coatings OD Green, using their bake on paint. That seems to be becoming a more popular color combination lately. Green metal on a black stock.

[Vladymere]

Sailorman,

 

Can you fill the pits with epoxy cement, JB Weld, etc. and then apply the finish so you have a smooth surface?

 

Vlad

[Sailormilan2]

KG Coatings is a bake on paint. It is supposed to be baked on at about 350* or so, for an hour. I am not sure what the heat would to to the JB Weld or other epoxy types. Supposedly heat destroys epoxy.

[brokengun]

Did you do the bolt for that gun?

 

If not who did?

 

Where did you get the handle.

 

I have a mauser bolt that has set for 10 years and I would love to have the bolt handle made to look like the bolt on your build.

 

Do you have pictures of the bolt alone that you could share

[lemski4]

Acuraglass will hold up to the temperature of of hot blueing tanks, I filled some pits with black acuraglass and bead blasted it and are almost undectable after hot blueing, with the bead blast finish.

[ken98k]

KG Coatings is a bake on paint. It is supposed to be baked on at about 350* or so, for an hour. I am not sure what the heat would to to the JB Weld or other epoxy types. Supposedly heat destroys epoxy.

 

http://www.alvinproducts.com/Products/Products.asp?id=2

This stuff should work very well for filling pits, especially if you're going to use a

bake-on finish.

[bstarling]

http://www.alvinproducts.com/Products/Products.asp?id=2

This stuff should work very well for filling pits, especially if you're going to use a

bake-on finish.

 

This thread is very interesting to me. I am in the process of making a change barrel on an FN30 Colombian action. It too has some craters in the ring, especially where the wood overlapped at the front. I've thought about the parkerizing as well, but after seeing the one with the stainless coating I think that might be the way to go. I am wondering if the stainless Dura-Coat would work as well. JB Weld could be used as a filler under this as it does no need baking. The first barrel for the set up is going to be a 35 Whelen by the way.

 

Bill

[AzRednek]

I remember the Alpine rifles. They were imported and distributed by Mandell's in New York City. One think unique about Alpine it was the last manufacture I'm aware of that factory chambered rifles in 308 Norma Mag. Unusual was the 1-12 twist in 308NM, don't know about their other 30 calibers. I believe the Alpine actions are Santa Barbra.

 

Mandells was one of the last NYC gun retailers to hold out and put up with the harassment from the NYPD. He finally gave up and moved after his son was arrested for cleaning a shotgun. Police charged him with gunsmithing without a license. Charges were dropped after Mandell agreed to close the retail portion of his business.

 

Never mentioned in Bernard Kerik's book but he was supposedly the cop behind the harassment. Kerick a crony of and body guard for Rudy Gulioni was almost appointed the first Director of Homeland Security.

 

Sorry didn't mean to change the gist of your thread. The Alpine rifle punched my nostalgia button. I came very close to buying an Alpine 308NM in 1971 but got a Voere instead.

[tinkerfive]

I am in the process of making a change barrel on an FN30 Colombian action.

 

Bill

 

Are you planning on spinning each barrel on or something like an interrupted thread?

 

If you check the archives you may find a few years ago one fellow went into the interrupted thread idea

at some length. I lost interest when it was realized what would be involved in correcting for the the various

points of impact with one scope. I didn't want to refer to some chart / table of correction factors for each barrel.

I guess that you might have a scope mounted to each barrel in scout configuration.

What aiming method have you come up with to deal with the different points of impact of different barrels?

 

Best of luck with you project, by the way.

We love to see creativity here.

And also a hearty WELCOME!!! to the board!

Tinker

[bstarling]

Are you planning on spinning each barrel on or something like an interrupted thread?

 

If you check the archives you may find a few years ago one fellow went into the interrupted thread idea

at some length. I lost interest when it was realized what would be involved in correcting for the the various

points of impact with one scope. I didn't want to refer to some chart / table of correction factors for each barrel.

I guess that you might have a scope mounted to each barrel in scout configuration.

What aiming method have you come up with to deal with the different points of impact of different barrels?

 

Best of luck with you project, by the way.

We love to see creativity here.

And also a hearty WELCOME!!! to the board!

Tinker

 

Tinker, Thanks for the welcome. I've been hanging around for a while and decided to get involved a bit. The rifle I'm in the process of doing is a screw in job using a lengthened thread on the shank. About 3 threads will work. I have made a barrel nut along the line of the Savage system. I've experimented with a 8mm military barrel and just turned the shoulder down and added three threads to it for the nut. It works just fine and is a cinch to headspace. I can take it off and replace it and headspace in 60 seconds flat. The sighting system is still somewhat of a mystery. The idea of a scout scope on each barrel certainly would work. I have also thought that I can do some range work with the barrels and come up with a way of compensating for each barrel by presetting the scope after changing barrels. This would involve some record keeping, but should work well. I think! This is very much a work in progress and any suggestions would be appreciated.

 

Bill

[bstarling]

Guys the scopeing of it will be easy but not real cheap if you use leupold QD mounts and rings and site a scope in for each barrel you should be golden but its a extra bbl and scope and rings for each caliber. also when your at it if you can find a second cbolt that will share headspace interchangably you could have a total package in one big case to cover anything.

 

Rod

I had actually thought of that but decided it would be more economical to calculate the clicks of correction and dial them into the scope when changing barrels. The multiple scopes and bolts would work really well though.

 

Does anyone have any experience with the Dura-Coat in the stainless steel or gun blue colors?

 

Bill

[Brenden]

I had actually thought of that but decided it would be more economical to calculate the clicks of correction and dial them into the scope when changing barrels. The multiple scopes and bolts would work really well though.

 

Does anyone have any experience with the Dura-Coat in the stainless steel or gun blue colors?

 

Bill

 

 

Hey Bill. I've Dura-coated a couple guns for myself and a few for friends. I like the gun blue. One can add a little more hardner to it and get a nice glossy looking finish. It doesn't wear that much at all, I coated the bolt on my 338-06 and that has cycled alot of rounds since i've done it. You guessed it, not really any wear. A couple topics before this, you will see my .308 build. That one is going to be stainless steel finish, I ordered it Thursday so we will see soon how it does. I'm a believer in dura-coat, and so is my dad and he first cringed at the idea of it. He loves it now. Just remember to get things very clean and give it a rough surface to adhease to (sand paper works well- a rough grit). To fill in pits or odd placed numbers/letters on an action, you can use anything (steel putty works). I just let mine air dry for a couple weeks and its good to go. All my coatings have gone on very smooth and lump free if I did my part of having it clean. Harbor freight has plenty of cheap air guns to use too (under $10). Its good stuff!

 

Brenden

[roscoedoh]

Does anyone have any experience with the Dura-Coat in the stainless steel or gun blue colors?

 

I do! I did a SMLE in "gun blue" a few years ago and hate it. It's blue not black-blue like a good hot bluing job would be. IMHO, the correct color for blued steel should be black to almost black. Once I'd finished the job and it was all over but the cryin'...I had a blue SMLE. One of these days I'll get some aircraft stripper and strip it and reDura-coat it flat black.

 

Overall though, the Dura-coat kit I bought was pretty easy to use and the application was more or less a no-brainer. You can't use a rattle can but everything else you've learned about spray painting holds true. My one suggestion is to buy more thinner than you think you'll need just in case - this coating is fairly tough most of your common paint thinners won't touch it. If you ever want to paint your truck with it, bypass Lauer Weaponry and pick up a gallon of Poulan-T from your local Sherwin-Williams (they're the same coating; Lauer just repackages it and adds the coloring). I like Dura-coat and have several rifles I need to coat if I can ever get to a stopping point on my house...

 

-Jason

[BradD]

AZ,

 

You're right, the action is a Santa Barbara. I still have it laying around. Spent some time and money on it heat treating and tuning up, but it's almost an FN now.

 

Never heard of the outfit until I found the barrelled action at Del Mar. Thanks for the info.

 

Brad

[Spiris]

I have a Turk Mauser that I parkerized and Duracoated in the SS color. It's an 8mm Mauser with a Swedish SR commercial barrel, bold trigger and Corelite stock coupled with a reworked trigger guard. I have since used lower scope mounts with a Tasco 4x instead of the 3-9x that's in the picture.

A clean surface is the key to a successful Duracoat application.

 

 

 

Spiris