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Military Firearm Restoration Corner

Mini-Lathe Question.


ghost95

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When checking out lathes, don't just go by the advertised dimension such as 9x20 etc. Which generally is bed lenght, then you start subtracting for chuck, faceplate, centers, tailstock, etc.

 

Find out the {between centers} dimension. That is the real usable lenght measurement of the machine. Even a 20" bed would be very hard pressed to spin a 14" mandrel with a reciever on it and have room to make a cut on the face.

 

JM2c

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Ok, 20" might be to short so at this point it sounds like a a full size machine is the way to go. Now what is considered a full size machine for gunsmithing? Now, I'm just curious because I think we've passed the price point and very limited knowledge I have of lathes. The only reason I was looking was that our local machineist charges a flat fee of $75. I guess that is just for the setup maintanance of tools ect. I understand the expense in running any type of equipment so I'm not put off, just thought I might be able to learn to do some of this myself.

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I would like to interject my thoughts on the subject.

 

Around 5 years ago or so, I decided to get into fabricating my own firearms when loads of Turkish Mausers hit the market. I did a bunch of research on equipment needs after buying and trading for several decent Turk rifles.

This MFRC site provided a bunch of information after joining and I picked the brains of several machine savvy members here.

I had machine shop experience, but little actual lathe experience. My limited funds caused me to consider a mini-lathe for reworking Remington take-off barrels to fit the Turk's Large ring/small thread actions. I bought a Cummins mini 7x12, and with a steady rest and live center and a good bit of patience, I started my adventure into amateur gunsmithing.

I added a 4" chuck, and was able to rethread some Rem barrels that I bought on ebay, back when they still sold them. And yes, it was a tight fit on the 7x12, but once I developed a technique, it served my intentions very well.

You'll find that common sense and a mini-lathe can do a lot of work for you, but they do have limitations.

 

Here's a link to a nice mini and some good information.

 

http://littlemachineshop.com/4100

 

 

Spiris

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I would like to interject my thoughts on the subject.

 

Around 5 years ago or so, I decided to get into fabricating my own firearms when loads of Turkish Mausers hit the market. I did a bunch of research on equipment needs after buying and trading for several decent Turk rifles.

This MFRC site provided a bunch of information after joining and I picked the brains of several machine savvy members here.

I had machine shop experience, but little actual lathe experience. My limited funds caused me to consider a mini-lathe for reworking Remington take-off barrels to fit the Turk's Large ring/small thread actions. I bought a Cummins mini 7x12, and with a steady rest and live center and a good bit of patience, I started my adventure into amateur gunsmithing.

I added a 4" chuck, and was able to rethread some Rem barrels that I bought on ebay, back when they still sold them. And yes, it was a tight fit on the 7x12, but once I developed a technique, it served my intentions very well.

You'll find that common sense and a mini-lathe can do a lot of work for you, but they do have limitations.

 

Here's a link to a nice mini and some good information.

 

http://littlemachineshop.com/4100

 

 

Spiris

 

 

You can make a mandrel from an old Mauser barrel stub. That way you can make it the length you need and it will fit into a 7x machine. I have a 7x12 Homier and it can face a receiver and if necessary thread a barrel. The motors don't have a lot of torque so you have to thread fast. That is nerve wracking for me, but it can be done.

 

Bill

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the spindle bore on the 7x12 & 9x20 can be reamed out to around .812"

i have the reamer if anyone wants to ream theirs out.

i had to ream mine to fit the a&b .375 blank in enough to thread & chamber & i still had quite a bit of the barrelticking out of the spindle.

if you don't plan on running a bull or big bore barrels you should be ok but if you do plan on running them i would look for a lathe with at least a 1" spindle bore

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