rustvyper Posted December 15, 2011 Report Share Posted December 15, 2011 So I found what I thought was a deal on a crudely sporterized 1917 Carl Gustav Mauser 96. I've gotten fairly proficient at building rifles on all the common actions...Mauser 98, Remington 700's, etc, so leave it to me to try building myself a personal shooter on an action I've never laid hands on before! So back to my "deal". It's the double-edge sword of internet gun buying that you can find awesome deals that turn out to be not so awesome when you get them. I found this one at Simpson Ltd & their description said it was already drilled & tapped for mounts so I knew I was taking a risk there. What they didn't mention was that it was drilled with what looks like a very small diameter drill, the rear lug was totally drilled through, & the front hole either has the bit or the tap broken in it. I paid $170 shipped for it, so I'm not in such a bad way, but I'm thinking that this receiver is scrap metal. What do you guys say? I've already got it broken down, but boy I can't for the life of me get this barrel turned off. I was hoping to save it & recover a little cash by putting it on gunbroker, so I'm loathe to put a pipe wrench to it. If the receiver is truly roached, I may cut that off & save the barrel as it seems to be the one thing the guy didn't hack on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spiris Posted December 15, 2011 Report Share Posted December 15, 2011 It's likely that the front hole does have a broken tap in it and it is into the barrel threads and preventing the barrel removal. You can try a Walton tap extractor to see if you can remove it. http://www.amazon.com/Walton-10063-Flute-Extractor-Square/dp/B0006N8DFK/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1323988128&sr=1-2 You might be able to use an Omega drill, at www.omegadrill.com. Mcmaster-Carr may have it. If not, a sharp hard punch to break it up, or find someone with an EDM machine with skill enough to burn the center out. Probably not cheap though. Hopefully they didn't drill into the chamber. You paid a little too much for it in the condition it appears, but a new bolt handle and a clean up on the shroud and safety will probably make it look better. Spiris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lemski4 Posted December 15, 2011 Report Share Posted December 15, 2011 If it is in fact a broken tap in the hole, I'd take a small burr in a dermal tool and grind a flat on top of the broken part of the tap and then use a small center punch and shatter it, and pick it out. You might have to make a special punch small enough and sharpen to point and harden it. If the holes are in the right spot for the mounts you want to use, and on center, check first, you can always open hole up for 8-32 threads if all else fails. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spiris Posted December 15, 2011 Report Share Posted December 15, 2011 If the rifle has been fired with the rear receiver hole as is, it probably won't be an issue. You can inspect the inner lugs if and when, you remove the barrel. Spiris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken98k Posted December 15, 2011 Report Share Posted December 15, 2011 What a shame. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rustvyper Posted December 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 16, 2011 Yep, I definitely paid too much. I'm a little dissapointed with the folks I ordered it from. Mentioning a broken tap in the description would seemingly be important. I think the hole with the tap is a blind bottom hole & drilled in front of the threads. I had the same thought that it was locking the barrel on too. I don't think I'm comfortable with using this action for something I intend for my kids to shoot in 10 years. I have a plan B up my sleeve that won't waste the other parts. Here's the plan as it stands right now. - ER Shaw barrel w/helical fluting in a #1 contour - 6.5x55 - Richard's dual-thumbhole stock in a AA or AAA quilted maple with the rosewood tip cap - Timney Trigger - FN style shroud - recontour trigger guard Things to decide: - Add dayton-traister cock on open conversion? I've never used a cock on close, so I don't know if I'll hate it, like it, or not care. I do like the idea of a shorter lock time with the cock on open. - Finish. I can't decide if I want to rust blue it or duracoat in a gunblue/black blend. The nice thing about duracoating is I get to fill every little pit & blemish. The nice thing about the blueing would be I could engrave the floorplate & triggerguard later & make it a true heirloom rifle. Well this is NOT going to be a cheap build. I saw a guy selling a Model 70SE locally in 6.5x55. He wanted $1300 for it & I laughed at the time. Now it looks my rifle will be close to a G by the time I'm done. This is one for the ages though. Hope to be still packing it in 40 years. I'll document my progress as best I can as I go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken98k Posted December 16, 2011 Report Share Posted December 16, 2011 The action is not a total loss. If you or someone you know can tig weld, it is salvageable. http://www.homegunsmith.com/cgi-bin/ib3/ikonboard.cgi?;act=ST;f=30;t=27415;st=0 This guy is is very talented but your receiver is not nearly as bad as the one he started with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gun nutty Posted December 16, 2011 Report Share Posted December 16, 2011 You can always call them up and complain. I'd be pissed and would have called immediately after opening the box. "Pre-drilled" and "un-functionally pre-drilled" are very different things. I think you were flat out lied to. If they're willing to take it back with you paying the shipping one way, I think that's an outstanding deal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghost95 Posted December 17, 2011 Report Share Posted December 17, 2011 I'd always heard that drilling into the lug was a BAD idea. Without a safety 3rd lug I'd be even more concerned. Be ccareful what ever you do. Will be interesting to see. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken98k Posted December 17, 2011 Report Share Posted December 17, 2011 I'd always heard that drilling into the lug was a BAD idea. Without a safety 3rd lug I'd be even more concerned. Be ccareful what ever you do. Will be interesting to see. While it is not desirable, it really doesn't affect the action unless the hole compromises the face of the recoil lug. If the hole is centered in the lug I wouldn't worry about it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rustvyper Posted December 17, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 17, 2011 While it is not desirable, it really doesn't affect the action unless the hole compromises the face of the recoil lug. If the hole is centered in the lug I wouldn't worry about it. Good to know - My schooling background was mech E & I didn't think it was a deal killer. However, if he's that big an idiot, what other things has he done? I think I'll still use this receiver (eventually). I'm chasing down plan B right now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken98k Posted December 17, 2011 Report Share Posted December 17, 2011 Good to know - My schooling background was mech E & I didn't think it was a deal killer. However, if he's that big an idiot, what other things has he done? I think I'll still use this receiver (eventually). I'm chasing down plan B right now. Drilling a small hole through the center of the the lug will not cause it to shear off. But you also don't want the hole close to the hard face where pounding and wear from the bolt lugs will erode into the softer inner core. (I hope that makes sense) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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