Me Vs Turkis Mauser

[drgoose]

Ok, this is my first official project that I am doing by myself, my previous one was done at a gunsmiths under his tutelage. I got this k.kale turkish in the mail a couple of days ago, yesterday I took it apart and cleaned it. It has a smooth bore and the stock has a large longitudinal crack at the tang. I am keeping both of them to learn other skills on them but that will be the subject of a future post. So because my bench is not quite sturdy enough and I have a small trailer parked outside my house, I drilled two holes into the trailer and bolted the barrel vise to it. It took me three tries to get the barrel off the dang thing. I had read how to do this several times on the internet and no where did the mention that YOU HAVE TO USE A SMALL ENOUGH HOLE IN THE OAK BLOCKS SO THAT AFTER TIGHTENING THEM BOTH HALFS DONT TOUCH EACH OTHER, or else you are not increasing the pressure on the barrel. It sounds pretty obvious but I just could not understand why the dang thing kept turning. Eventually I got the stupid thing off.

 

I then put the action on a vise and I filed off the barrel shroud. So far I am pretty pleased with myself. :D

 

 

 

 

[karlunity]

Ok, this is my first official project that I am doing by myself, my previous one was done at a gunsmiths under his tutelage. I got this k.kale turkish in the mail a couple of days ago, yesterday I took it apart and cleaned it. It has a smooth bore and the stock has a large longitudinal crack at the tang. I am keeping both of them to learn other skills on them but that will be the subject of a future post. So because my bench is not quite sturdy enough and I have a small trailer parked outside my house, I drilled two holes into the trailer and bolted the barrel vise to it. It took me three tries to get the barrel off the dang thing. I had read how to do this several times on the internet and no where did the mention that YOU HAVE TO USE A SMALL ENOUGH HOLE IN THE OAK BLOCKS SO THAT AFTER TIGHTENING THEM BOTH HALFS DONT TOUCH EACH OTHER, or else you are not increasing the pressure on the barrel. It sounds pretty obvious but I just could not understand why the dang thing kept turning. Eventually I got the stupid thing off.

 

I then put the action on a vise and I filed off the barrel shroud. So far I am pretty pleased with myself. :D

 

 

 

 

 

 

Looks good sir.

Let us know how it goes.

karl

[karlunity]

Ok, this is my first official project that I am doing by myself, my previous one was done at a gunsmiths under his tutelage. I got this k.kale turkish in the mail a couple of days ago, yesterday I took it apart and cleaned it. It has a smooth bore and the stock has a large longitudinal crack at the tang. I am keeping both of them to learn other skills on them but that will be the subject of a future post. So because my bench is not quite sturdy enough and I have a small trailer parked outside my house, I drilled two holes into the trailer and bolted the barrel vise to it. It took me three tries to get the barrel off the dang thing. I had read how to do this several times on the internet and no where did the mention that YOU HAVE TO USE A SMALL ENOUGH HOLE IN THE OAK BLOCKS SO THAT AFTER TIGHTENING THEM BOTH HALFS DONT TOUCH EACH OTHER, or else you are not increasing the pressure on the barrel. It sounds pretty obvious but I just could not understand why the dang thing kept turning. Eventually I got the stupid thing off.

 

I then put the action on a vise and I filed off the barrel shroud. So far I am pretty pleased with myself. :D

 

 

 

 

 

 

Looks good sir.

Let us know how it goes.

karl

[rdm1962]

I've done 2 Turks so far. I try to square the receiver to .002" from the inner shoulder. Take your time and measure it at several points across the face. Use a dial caliper and a files. The extra effort will pay off in improved accessory. Good luck and keep us informed.

[ken98k]

You should consider yourself lucky to get the barrel off with the wooden blocks, I never was able to use them. I even epoxied them to one milsurp, without sucsess.

 

Also it's no shame to take your receiver to a gunsmith with a lathe. It would take him about five minutes to square up the receiver face.

 

hope you have continued good luck with your project.

[drgoose]

And away goes the hump!!! I just filed it away.

 

 

 

[drgoose]

And here is today's work. First I bent the bolt. I don't think that the angle is going to work out, I think I left too much of the root unbent but I was really worried about not heating up the root of the bolt too much. I then dressed the bolt first with a file and then with coarse-medium-fine emory cloth and then with 320 grit paper.

 

Today I also got my barrel from midway usa for the other swedish mauser and I placed it on the turk, does anyone make short chambered barrels that will not leave the big step off for the turk?

 

Hopefully more progress tomorrow. Base and rings should be here so I will find out if the bolt clears the scope or is it going to be back to the forging blocks. I think I am going to try welding the next bolt.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[drgoose]

And some more pictures

 

 

 

 

[cougar69]

Looking good keep us up to date with the pics.

[logeorge]

You should consider yourself lucky to get the barrel off with the wooden blocks, I never was able to use them. I even epoxied them to one milsurp, without sucsess.

 

Also it's no shame to take your receiver to a gunsmith with a lathe. It would take him about five minutes to square up the receiver face.

 

hope you have continued good luck with your project.

ken98k: I never had any luck with wooden blocks either. Most (maybe all) ofthe gunsmithing books I've read say to use them with rosin. I've had good results by boring an aluminum block to fit and sawing it apart through the centerline. They grip well and if they do slip, the aluminum is fairly easy to get off without scarring the barrel. Of course this is a lot easier if you have a milling machine and a boring head or a lathe. I took a barrel off a Chinese made receiver once, but couldn't get it it budge without using what I thought was excessive force. I sawed it off a little way in front of the receiver and bored it out on a lathe. I don't know what kind of steel they used, but it was so hard it would dull a hi-speed tool bit with one light cut. I ended up using a carbide tool, stopping short of the inner ring and cutting until the minor diameter of the theads started to show, then picking the rest out. L. O. G.

[ken98k]

ken98k: I never had any luck with wooden blocks either. Most (maybe all) ofthe gunsmithing books I've read say to use them with rosin. I've had good results by boring an aluminum block to fit and sawing it apart through the centerline. They grip well and if they do slip, the aluminum is fairly easy to get off without scarring the barrel. Of course this is a lot easier if you have a milling machine and a boring head or a lathe. I took a barrel off a Chinese made receiver once, but couldn't get it it budge without using what I thought was excessive force. I sawed it off a little way in front of the receiver and bored it out on a lathe. I don't know what kind of steel they used, but it was so hard it would dull a hi-speed tool bit with one light cut. I ended up using a carbide tool, stopping short of the inner ring and cutting until the minor diameter of the theads started to show, then picking the rest out. L. O. G.

 

I replaced my wood blocks with blocks made from 2"x2" steel. After drilling and tapping 1/4" holes I seperated the blocks with 1/16" thick washers and bolted them together.

With the blocks bolted together, I bored a 1 1/2" hole between them. Now, I make bushing as needed from 1 1/2" aluminum bar stock. This set-up is similar to the one Brownells sells and works very well if you have a lathe.