Broken Firing Pin Fix Needed

[ronploude]

The firing pin in my .220 Swift sporter is broken at the tip. I didn't notice it during the sporter build process. It is broken at the tip and, except for the tip being shorter, it looks normal. However, the pin won't project out of the firing pin hole in the bolt when released.

 

I ordered a new pin but received a VZ24 pin in the mail. This is a full K98 Mauser length. The guy who sent it to me hasn't responded to my email protesting the switch for my order. Looks like I might be stuck with what I got.

 

 

How can I shorten the K98 pin to fit my M24/47 action? If I had welding equipment, I could probably cut about 1/4 inch from the middle of the firing pin shank and weld it back together. But, I don't have welding equipment. With the tools at my disposal, I can file, grind and cut.

 

Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated.

[tinkerfive]

 

 

How can I shorten the K98 pin to fit my M24/47 action? If I had welding equipment, I could probably cut about 1/4 inch from the middle of the firing pin shank and weld it back together. But, I don't have welding equipment. With the tools at my disposal, I can file, grind and cut.

 

Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated.

I've seen someone on Gunbroker that makes intermediate F-pins from std. pins.

My guess is that one additional cocking piece groove is machined toward the front then the rear most lug is

removed. I presume that this work is being done on a lathe.

Hope this helps

Tinker

[weaver77]

Take the standard and intermediate firing pins and lay them side by side. You will notice that some of the groves line up while some dont. The standard firing pin has one grove more to the rear and the intermediate has one more to the front. With carful use of a dremel tool and cut off wheels and some small files you can add another grove to the front of the std. to match the intermediate. the rear most grove and step on the std will need to be removed and left the smaller diameter then excess can be cut off. Take your time and check cocking piece for fit often. You will notice that it will become nescesary to take the end of the std pin down to the smaller diameter first so that you can get the cocking piece on to check fit. I do mine on my lathe is much easier to do, but if you take your time and go slow you can do it yourself. There a few guys on this forum that can do it for you at minimal cost if you dont feel comfortable doing it yourself. If you need some one to talk you thru it on the phone you can give me a call. 210-315-7748

 

Hope this helps, James

[Spiris]

Ron, I have not done it myself, but I believe that you can fabricate your Fpin from the 98 length Fpin that you have. If you line them up together, I think all you need to do is add another groove with a grinder on the lower part to match your cocking piece. Then trim off the extra on the end. A couple years ago when the intermediate action parts got scarce, a guy was selling INT. Fpins that he fabricated from M98 Fpins on Ebay. 1903 Turk pins should fit too, but they are harder to find than 24/47 stuff.

I hope this helps, and maybe someone will chime in to help.

 

I see you did get help. They are a good bunch of guys here.

 

Spiris

[BradD]

Sorry, wrong info.

[gun nutty]

Are you sure the 24/47 is INTERMEDIATE?

 

The M48/M48A rifles were, but the 24/47 should be a standard length Mauser. Have you tried to install the pin? It will either work, or it won't. If would have to be set back a full 1/4" if it wasn't the right size.

[ken98k]

Are you sure the 24/47 is INTERMEDIATE?

 

The M48/M48A rifles were, but the 24/47 should be a standard length Mauser. Have you tried to install the pin? It will either work, or it won't. If would have to be set back a full 1/4" if it wasn't the right size.

 

The 24-47 in an intermeadiate length action, same as the 48 or 48A

 

Shortening a standard length firing pin to an intermeadiate length is a breeze if you access to a lathe.

[donmarkey]

The 24-47 in an intermeadiate length action, same as the 48 or 48A

 

Shortening a standard length firing pin to an intermeadiate length is a breeze if you access to a lathe.

 

Now same therory, chuck the pin in a drill and use a stone in the dremel turning opposite each other. Groove layout is more important that technique.

Don

[ronploude]

James and Don,

 

You've both given me ideas and advice that has encouraged me to try making an intermediate firing pin from the full length pin on hand. I've got a decent stand up drill press and a dremel tool that will lend themselves well to implementing Don's technique. As you've both stated, the trick will be to get the new grove in the right place; and I've got an idea of how to do that.

 

Thanks guys! I'll give it a go this weekend and let you know how it works out.

 

Ron

[tinkerfive]

check this out

http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=164135790

 

Tinker

[ronploude]

Thanks for the lead, Tinker, but I just finished converting a VZ24 Mauser firing pin to the shorter Yugo pin this afternoon. Mine didn't come out as any where as good at the one on gunbroker.com but it is functional.

 

As a follow up to my previous posting on this subject in which I commented on my broken firing pin (a picture of the broken M24/47 pin tip vs the unbroken VZ24 firing pin tip is below), I converted the VZ24 firing pin that I had to an M24/47 intermediate pin. I started the conversion by grinding off the rear most cocking sleeve lug of the firing pin with a bench grinder. Then I put in a new lug recess on the firing pin shaft with my drill press and dremel tool with a grinding wheel bit. Being the first time that I did this conversion, the result will not win any beauty contest in the gunsmith's gill. The only thing I can say is that it does fit my cocking sleeve and shroud and it is functional.

 

Part of the problem in getting a clean cocking sleeve lug recess was that I couldn't get the dremel tool's grinding wheel perpendicular to the firing pin. The drill press chuck was in the way so I ended up with a tapered recess rather than a sharp lug shoulder. Fortunately, the 2 existing lugs provide a good mating surface with the cocking sleeve.

 

After putting the bolt back together and inserting it into the rifle, I loaded a primer into an empty case to test it. It worked perfectly, leaving a nice centered indentation in the primer.

 

I've attached a couple of before and after pictures. They are included here to serve as an instructional guide for someone else who can't locate an intermediate length firing pin for their Yugo Mauser. What I've accomplished shows that an full length Mauser firing pin can be modified by anyone with a few tools. If you don't have a drill press, I can easily imagine how the job could have been done with a vice or its equivalent, a file, and a dremel tool. I would have never had the courage to move forward with this were it not for the encouragement and advice I received from this forum.