donmarkey

Northern brewer has a big selection of them. Too late this year for me. Maybe next year

Even the small newer ones are 50amp. Ours is under 30’ and 50a. Anything prepped for 2 acs

Which rhizomes are you trying? There was a beer garden here that had them going and they used to let you pick. I never knew what the were but would use them in a summer wheat

https://4drentals.com/product/large-ring-barrel-die-98-mauser/

I wouldn’t hesitate to use it as to heat treating. The problem with scrubbed actions in they are true on the outside anymore. I would surface grind or mill the area that the scope bases mount to insure they are parallel and measure to see if shims or custom mounts are in order.

Brownells used to maybe still does sell a center punch made just for that. Super glue the base on then punch and drill. You can regrind a pin punch also. I just use the mill and no jig. Dial in center of the y axis then dry fit the base on where you want and drill with a center drill, then the #31. Then move the x axis the spacing of the screws then drill again.

https://www.apexgunparts.com/98-mauser-barrel-.270-22inch-wilson-arms-gd.html good price on 270 barrels

I would think the market is so low on them no one will stock them again. Special order only. Shilen, Douglas, McGowan etc. If looking for a budget build I’d look to the used market.

Lathe

Go for it. Just don’t drill all the way thru the front most hole!

https://www.myersarms.com

Meyer arms. Nathanial Meyer is great to deal with.

The old Gibbs detectable mags were single stack.

Brownells sells a fixture to hold the receiver mandrel to allow grinding. I use something a little more technical and in the surface grinder. But take a look and get some ideas. A cup wheel in the drill press is a makeshift surface grinder.

Do you have a decent drill press?

The stuff I use would clean up with soap and water. Just in the kitchen sink with dawn

Yes

This is my jig. I made several this is what I like the best

It is probably to bumps in the rail. They need to be moved forward to allow the whole case to rise instead of the front only. The shoulder of the round hits the bump and the case front rises before the bullet enters the chamber. Load some 7x57 and watch how it reacts. Then adjust the bumps forward until it mimicks it. One reason I like to use 1909s for builds. The rails are tapered with no bumps. Easier to get to feed. I like the 270. That and the 30-06 are my go to hunting rounds.

Sounds like the rail needs adjusting. Check the angle, is it tipping up too early? If it is it can bind in the extractor. Make sure the ex tractor isn’t too tight too.

Paint the round with dykem or a sharpie and look where it rubs. Will it not feed at all or just rough? 270 usually are easy one.

Yes as Ken said. I leave a little of the factory flat as a stop and then relieve the action for the handle with clearance.

And I thought you were fending off looters!

In the city. Nothing in the burbs yet

https://www.myersarms.com/ His are about as true to original as you can get. Great guy to deal with too. Also sells them on eBay.