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Sailormilan2

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About Sailormilan2

  • Birthday 04/25/1950

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    Sailormilan2

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    California
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    Rifle building, shooting, computors, airplanes

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  1. Rounds Down Range 143 Post Thanks / Like Re: Starting a new build.
  2. Numrich has some Chrome lined 18" and 22" barrels made for LRB Arms at a very good price. So, I installed one. Problem withe Chinese made Polytechs and Norincos(Same gun, different name) is that for some reason, the locking shoulders on the receivers have been moved slightly forward from USGI spec. Makes fitting and head spacing a bolt a little more difficult. Especially with the chrome lined barrels. Due to their chrome lining, the chamber is fully cut. So, after installation, one must find a bolt that fits, or lap the receiver and bolt lugs.
  3. I'm using Allegheny Arsenal Manganese Park. It's much simpler to use than the Brownells. But it costs more.
  4. I've got a couple of Chinese made Polytech M14S rifles that I've used as training aids. I've learned a lot from tinkering with, and modifying, them. But their dark grey color always bothered me. Especially when next to the black color of American parts. So, COVID-19 boredom struck me hard the other day and I decided to "fix" them. I reparked all the Chinese made parts to black. Then put them into cleaned up and refinished USGI stocks. Here they are. The wood on the walnut stock is actually better than what shows up in the photo.
  5. Well, here it is. It's parkerized now. Good color. Unfortunately, the weld didn't take the park well. So, I used Brownells Oxphoblue on it, and that did the trick.
  6. I applied CitriStriper twice. Scrubbed with a soft nylon bristle brush, and rinsed off with the hottest water my water heater could do.
  7. Here it is. 10 coats of hand rubbed pure Tung oil. Then sanded with 400 grit paper. Finally, one coat of hand rubbed Tung oil.
  8. Ok. Almost finished. I need to make the front hinge pin using a 7/64 drill bit, then parkerize it.
  9. I've been tossing around the idea of making a hinged TG for my Yugo Mauser in .243 Win. I got the idea when I realized that the distance from the rear magazine wall to the rear guard screw was the same, whether it was an Intermediate Yugo or a standard 98. The difference in length is all in the front end, basically from about the mid point of the magazine to the front screw. So, I got the idea of finding a donor hinged TG, and doing some cutting and welding. Well, I've had the donor for months now, and finally worked up the courage to do it. Realizing that I don't do this often, and I'm not trained, some of my ideas might not be the most efficient. 1st I hacked off the trigger guard off the donor at the rear mag wall. I ruined a previous Yugo TG, by cutting it in the wrong place, so I was very cautious and conservative today. I cut the military TG right in front of the trigger guard itself. I used and old Yugo stock as a fitting jig, and when placed in there, I had over lap. I ended up cutting the honor TG with the latch, right at the latch. On the military unit, I had to trim back all the way to the mag catch/spring tunnel at the back of the rear wall. I actually had to remove some of the tunnel for everything to fit. Once everything fit, I beveled the edged for a good weld. I would have preferred a TIG welder, but I didn't know anyone who had one. So, my neighbor and his MIG welder got drafted. Unfortunately, there wasn't any real support for the military unit, so it got slightly out of position during welding. Resulting in a slight downward tilt at the weld. But, that won't affect anything, and when in the stock, it's not noticeable. We also filled the front locking screw hole. Which now needs to be cleaned out. There's a reamer for that, and I have one. So far, I've ground down the welds on the sides, so they match the stock contours. Ground down the front screw hole fill, and still have a little to do. I used a 1/4" end mill to open up the hole for the hinge on the floor plate to fit into. Opened with 1/4", then cleaned up a bit with a 5/16". Then filed the end of the cut out square and with an angle inside. Hinge pin hole was drilled a while ago. Currently I'm filling down the latch end of the floor plated once I get it to latch, I will finish profiling the sides of the floorplate at the TG. For some reason, Mausers have a 1/2" square cut just in front of the front mag wall. That leaves very thin metal where the hinge pins will be going. So, my thoughts on that are once everything is done, short of refinishing, I'm going to bead blast all the parkerizing off. The the floorplagte hinge tongue with Brownells release agent, put the floor plate in place with the hinge pin, then pack DevCon Steel bed into the space to give extra support. Rifle will be finished in parkerizing, and I don't believe that the parking solution will affect the DevCon.
  10. Just picked up a figured birch stock for one of my M14 rifles. I don't really need it, but it's got the potential to be really nice if finished right. I'm not a fan of really pale stocks, so I have to decide if I should dye it(birch doesn't stain well with oil based stains), or leave it be. Anyway, here's before cleaning and after cleaning pics. Nothing has been done except to clean it.
  11. FWIW, Shaw is having a Labor Day sale from now through Labor Day. 15% off.
  12. Someone, and I think that it is/was Zastava, made a true left handed 98 style action. At one time they supposedly made some in Stainless steel.
  13. My son's a lefty. This is for him. No stain. Strictly TruOil.
  14. A bit more information about the stock. It's a Richards MicroFit blem. There were two big cracks in it, which Richards MicroFit had filled with something. I filled the inside of the crack with some 20 minute hobby epoxy. Here's the stock. 4 coats of hand rubbed TruOil. Allowed to dry overnight, then buffed with an old washrag, and a good coat of Johnson's paste wax rubbed on and buffed.
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