Posted 17 July 2008 - 09:31 PM
So I ask you all, what trigger would you recomend for a seriouse paper puncher? Timneys look like they'd be OK, but I've started looking at Jard lately. Is there any noticable difference in performance between the two?
I currently have an original parker hale trigger like this one:
The way it mounts to the rifle worries me a little, using the action screw to pinch the tang of the trigger between the receiver and the stock. Since I am planning on pillar and glass bedding this rifle I would think that this trigger system would actually degrade the effect of the bedding considerably, and I can't think of a decent way to modify it to make it mount in a more conventional method.
So I ask you all, what do you recomend? Other than Timney and Jard, are there any other alternatives that you would look into? I can't say that money is no object, but I plan on doing this thing right, so by all means, suggest away.
Posted 18 July 2008 - 03:41 AM
There are a lot of Parker Hale triggers in this neck of the woods (being the down-under colonials) and I have had several, the rifles invariably shoot better with them removed and the bedding redone - sort of chicken and egg but they are not easy to bed "right" IMO.
I have a very expensive locally made target trigger on a 98, easily the best I've ever handled . . . but the second best (and superior to a Reknagel or NECG that I have) is a very well tuned standard military trigger. It is still two stage, but thats not a big deal for a target rifle. The second stage of a mauser is very little work to tune to a 2 1/2 lb pull that is very sweet. There are plenty of sites that describe how, sometimes they leave out a fairly important step IMO, and that is to have several triggers and sears, and do some mixing and matching after you have polished them all. Ofter very little extra is required.
Posted 18 July 2008 - 08:55 AM
Posted 18 July 2008 - 11:00 AM
Posted 18 July 2008 - 07:38 PM
Even the Timney Sportsman is a very good trigger. I'm not saying others aren't but 95% of the aftermarket triggers I've used have been Timneys.
Posted 18 July 2008 - 09:33 PM
I prefer the Timney Sportsman over the Bold and many others that I have tried. I have recently aquired a Timney Featherweight for a tactical/target rifle that I am just getting started on. I have a couple of these and like them very much. I have used several of the Bold triggers but I like the Timney better. It may just be in my head but I would spend the extra couple of dollars for the Timney. I would probably save my money on the more expensive triggers to buy other parts!
Posted 19 July 2008 - 05:32 AM
Posted 19 July 2008 - 09:48 AM
and crisp..It's goin to be your choice, I would try to shoot as many rifles with different triggers as you to get the feel of each.
My hunting rifle has a modified mil trigger.It works just fine. If you are building a target rifle then I would change out to an aftermarket one. This is just one opinion of many...Dave
Posted 20 July 2008 - 12:16 AM
One quick question on the different model #'s for the FWD.
They list FD M98FN #301 and FD M98K #302 on the Timney site. Which would be appropriate for my receiver (Santa barbara M98) and why? I read in the descriptions for the same product over on brownell's website that it has to do with the trigger guard?
Posted 20 July 2008 - 05:20 AM
Posted 20 July 2008 - 10:04 AM
Posted 21 July 2008 - 10:10 PM
Posted 04 August 2008 - 08:19 PM
I did a post on this a few months ago, but will reiterate (it's in "Triggers" or something like that).
Until a couple years ago Timney made about four different triggers to accommodate Mauser variants (K, Siamese, M-98, Commercial). Then the engineers or the bean counters got creative and developed a one-size-fits-all FD. Good idea, except it doesn't.
The K is still the K, you don't need it unless you are doing something with a 95/93. I always put hinged 95 tg's on my Mexicans, so I need the K even though it's a 98.
However, just today I mailed four of the 301's back to Timney. Not one of them works on any commercial Mauser I have, regardless of brand. They either slam fiire or lock up when you try to open the bolt after firing.
The problem, according to them, is that the one-size-fits-all sear is too low. So if you send your trigger to them they will put a higher one in that works. They are a good outfit and make great triggers. They will do as they say and not charge you for it. Just keep in mind it is a pain to mail it to them and adds to the cost and you have a wait.
I still endorse them highly, but I sure wish they would rethink this.
Posted 14 August 2008 - 12:05 PM
All function flawlessly now, except in one FN action the bolt drags a bit on the high sear. Everything else I tried was fine.
They designate it as the Model 301/A.
Posted 26 August 2008 - 10:35 AM
Other than the safety plate issue its a nice trigger.
Posted 04 September 2008 - 11:59 AM
The older Timney's worked very well, although the Kar98a requires a special unit due to the trigger being mounted closer to the magazine.
The old, Dayton Traistor all-steel triggers are hard to beat but may be difficult to find. These may only require inletting at the ends as they are very narrow.
The Canjar works well and has been a favorite of target shooters for decades.
The Bold Premium and Optium side-safeties work well on M98s and K98s, but, don't mistakenly get the small ring Mauser model as the small ring models are of different dimensions.
I have a Gew98 I had put togather by a master gunsmith using an '03 Sprngfld barrel in 1957 for my father. It is the smoothest and easiest Mauser action I've ever had and uses the original 98 trigger assembly. These need to be altered to remove "over travel" in order to make good target triggers, but I have come to really like the double pull. Never had a "pulled" shot due to a nervous twitch during concentration on targets or game.
FN's "single stage" commercial triggers are fine but need work lightening and smoothing them out. Watch out for the M70 type FN single stage triggers which are pinned to the trigger guard. These should be avoided altogather as the trigger and the sear are attached to different parts of the action - too much room for shifting around.
Double Set triggers hold a certain fascination for many, but, can be really dangerous to unpracticed users. I showed a friend how to use them one day at the range. As he brought it up to his should he set the rear trigger, I started yelling STOP but he kept going, moving his finger to the front trigger and sure enough he touched it off prior to getting it seated securely on his shoulder. His head became the recoil seat for the scope's rear bell housing, it punched out a semi-circle of bone in the upper portion of his eye socket. An older doctor laughed and said they didn't see many of these injuries anymore as set triggers had gone out of fashion, fortunately my friend recoverd with no permanent vision problems.
I'd reccomend sticking with steel and very simple designs like the Buehler, FN, Dayton-Traistor, or Lee shroud safties which block the firing pin. For side safties, Timney, Bold, or Canjar.
When ordering the Bold or Timney side-safety triggers ensure you specify "98" or "FN". The 98 bolt shroud is much wider than the streamlined bold shrouds on commercial actions. Early FNs used the older M98 bolt shroud and will need the "98" trigger. The "FN" safety button will stick up higher above the stock line and block movement of the bolt when it's shroud jams up against it. A small portion of the lower right corner of a M98 type bolt shroud can be ground away to avoid this problem. Bill.
Posted 08 September 2008 - 02:36 PM
I have the PH cocking peice, in fact I have the entire PH bolt assembly. That and the trigger came as a package deal when I baught them.
I wound up purchasing the FN Featherweight delux trigger from Timney, and the side safety was still too far to the left to clear the "streamlined" cocking peice shroud on my bolt. Hence the breakage issue.
At this point I'm entertaining the idea of playing with original military trigger components, or a huber adjustable trigger, just to see what I like best. I'm also looking at getting a Gentry model 70 style safety. When my stock shows up (any week now) I can at least get a good feel for the Timney trigger and see if I like it enough to keep it. Still waiting for that replacement safety plate. Probably wont be buying another timeny.
Posted 08 September 2008 - 09:38 PM
Bending down the fingerpiece for the Timney safety is about an absolute necessity. I always figured they knew that when they made them. I don't know why one would snap off. Must have had a weak spot in it. Should have been fine.
Also you usually can't bend it down enough to get the job done and not look like crap. You will find that you need grind a slight groove along the edge of the commercial shroud that addresses the safety. I just use a corner on my bench grinder stone and it always works out fine and not very visible. Grind and check, grind and check, grind and check...same advice for bending the safety fingerpiece.
If you haven't gotten the replacement safety from Timney, just send them the trigger and let them tend to it. Should only take a week.
Posted 09 September 2008 - 05:21 PM
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