tomme boy

Guys, what the grown is called is extrusion. I worked in a metal extrusion plant for 7 years and we would make all kinds of nuts, bolts, ball joints, gears, and on and on. We would take a 1" round bar and press it threw dies and form it into something else. This is actually what is happening. As you PFL size, the body of the case is sized back down to size. Now, if the shoulder of the die is adjusted up to PFL size, the brass can and will be pushed up to the shoulder. When the brass is being sized down, where else can the brass go but up. That is why you see this happening from time to time. I do not set any of my dies up the way the die makers say to. What I like to do is find brass that was not fired out of my rifle and keep sizing it down until it does chamber. This way I know I am not over working the brass.

Use 4350, Hod or IMR. 4895 is a little too fast for the 243. It can be used, but it leaves too much space in the case. The 87gr HPBT Hornady is one of my favorites. 41.5gr of h4350. Seat to your rifle.

There are no sight holes. It is A PSS barrel. Or a Varmit barrel. They are the same. The barrel is a 308. And the rec. is a KKale. I dont think it is contacting the throat. It is actually touching the sides of the chamber. The HS gauge goes in the barrel no problem. It looks like I will just have to ream it. Now, what #'s would I use for the face of rec. to the bolt as there is a differance from side to side. .7235" and .725".?Thanks guys.

OK, I did some measurements today on a Turk action and I came up with these #'s and need to know what to do about these #'s. Face of rec. to bolt on one side is .7235 on the other side of the face of the bolt it is .725 Face of rec. to C-ring is .620 all the way around. I am going to have a Rem. barrel turned for the Turk and need to get some #'s straight. For the #'s on the bolt, what should I use. The bolt has not had the face trued. I guessing that's where the 2 #'s are coming from. I lapped the lugs and that is it for the bolt. I would not like to have to run the reamer into the chamber as the chamber on the barrel now is tighter than what my reamer would cut. It also has a shorter leade. I real carefully tried to slide the reamer into the chamber now and it would only go in about 1/2 way. That's why I think it has a tighter chamber. I also tried some ammo that I have loaded for another gun in the same cal. in new brass that has NOT been fired yet but set for this guns throat and it was .2 longer than the chamber on this barrel that I want to use for the Turk. Another reason that I do not want to use the reameron this unless I have to. That for the input.

Get the Burris Signiture rings and put in a 20 MOA ring set in the front or rear. Problem solved. If the action is that far out of wack, hopfully it did not kink the scope. If it did, your Leopold warranty will be void. I have had this happen to me 3 times. Now I just buy the Burris rings and don't worry. They will take up any miss alignment.

Use the .311 bullets. Your groups will tighten up even more. RL15 is real close to Varget on the burn rate. If it does not like one powder, it will like the other. I shoot the 174gr HPBT match 311's out of mine with RL15 and I found that with this bullet and powder, it liked a Mag primer. Try to seat the bullets out as far as you can go to get them to touch the rifling. If you can not get to the lands, seat the bullet into the case to 1/2 of the diameter of the bullet.

From what I have been told. One the pressures will be lower due to the bullet sliding down the barrel easier. You will lose speed because of less friction. You will have to add more powder to make up the speed loss. Make sure the bore is completely free off copper before you shoot anything moly in it. The moly will trap the copper and will corrode under the moly. Don't shoot copper over moly, it will layer and will be a pain in the arse to remove. I have also heard of increased throat wear, more than likely from the increase in powder charge. It also will build up just as copper will and your accurracy will start to go to hell. It is a lot harder to remove than copper. My experiance with it. Very messy. If you get it on your fingers, anything you touch will have fingerprints on it. What ever you do, don't pick your nose after handling moly bullets. I used to put it on FMJ's for my AR. I did a lot! of shooting with it. Over 10K a year for 3 years. This barrel had very significant throat wear when I had a new barrel put on it. Did it help? I don't know. I had put about 3K threw the new barrel with no moly before I got rid of it. So I can't say if it helped. I cleaned the barrel every 1K rounds with JB and Kroil to remove the crud. Then ran a new patch that had moly on it to reapply it to the barrel. Most of the info that I have heard about this stuff was from guys that shoot BR. One will swear by it, the next will swear at it. Good luck with whatever you want to use.

When you lap a barrel using the lead lap method, you have to take off 2" of bothe ends of the barrel. It eggs out the ends. On a blank, it is not a problem on the chamber end. You will be running the reamer into it to remove the bad rifling. Then chop off the other end and recrown it. I would not do this to a barrel that is already been chambered and crowned.

AZ, ask them for a taller rear and a shorter front. That should help to make the sights more level. I wouldn't shim the rear. It just would not look right.

Sounds like you had fun, But we need pics.

Skeet, it was over a year ago that I got the stock. I can not remember what I ordered for the grade. I can not find the paperwork for it. But the AA sounds right? I think. It was a press fit. It fit mine pretty well. It was tight in some spots and loose in others. Kind of like my old la.... wait did I say that. I told them I had a A&B F34 and they said they were going to do a CNC program for a #3 contour and it should be a little smaller than the F34. I did not have to take out much to get it floated. The round just came out not too long ago. If I do this one I am going to have a friend help set it up on his lathe to do the chamber. Here is some info. 6.5x47 Swiss I tried the JB route but it did not help. This thing has chatter marks all the way down the tube. When I say it falls apart, goes from a group just under 1" out to about 1.25". Most people would love to have a rifle that shoots a 1.25" group. I have ownded several Rem and Sav. rifles that were called varmit rifles that would not shoot any better than 1.25'' at 100. Some of them are real accurate, but some of them are real dogs. Here is a target that I shot with one of my 700's that I have kept in .243win. It was shot at 500yds. Like I said not all are bad. This just likes to shoot with a bunch of copper in the bore.[attachmentid=204]

They milled down the left rear of the rec. It did help, but I think I put in a 5 moa spacer. I wanted a little more room for adj. on the target scope. I'm going to try to get out this week to see what it does at 600. I have to wait for the corn to get picked before I can get it to 1K. I might have to put a 20moa spacer in to get the elevation for this, and hopefully the speed is fast enough to stay stable at 1K.

It is fully bedded. The bore is not very smooth. That and the reamer I used to finish the chamber cut the throat very-very long. On a total clean barrel, it takes about 10 shots before it will settle down. The I can go about 50 shots before it starts to fall apart again. The next one I was thinking about is the 6.5x47 Swiss, or a 6.5-250 imp.

This was my first complete build. It is a M48 Yugo. I did this one in .308win. It is a A&B F34. The stock is a Richards Microfit. It was their first stock that was cut for other than a very light wieght contour. It took hardly any work for the barrel or action to fit it. The bolt is a Davis May. I did all of the work myself on this one. The finish on the stock is Var Urethane. There is abut 30 coats on it. I sanded each coat then put on another to fill the grain and get it smooth. The blue is Birtchwoods Super Blue. It took about 2 weeks to get it black. Heat it up, put on the solution , dunck it in cold water. This shoots real good too. Once I found what it liked. The best group with this one is a .7925" from the widest to widest. It also likes to have a lot of copper in the bore before it shoots well. Remindes me of my Rem 700.

Here ya go.

AzRed, the scope is a 4-20x44. There would be no way I could get a group like that with a 4 power even at 100. At first I was not too happy with Shaw. They messed up when they drilled the rear holes on the rec. Seams that the side with the ejector was higher than the other. It made the base tilt to one side and I could not adjust the scope out far enough get it to shoot center. That was even with a 20moa burris insert to try to bring it over. The barrel seams to not foul too bad any more. It had a spot in the barrel that would foul real bad. I polished it out with some JB bore paste. It took quite a while to get it out. Now it is not bad at all. I had to go get a new card for the camera. Will have pics real shortly.

I got out today to test a load that shoots well. This is the 3rd time trying it out on differant outings. I wanted to make sure that it was not a lucky group the first time I shot it. The gun is a SR Turk K. Kale. I had a # 3.5 contour from ER Shaw in 8x57mm At 26" long. Fajen walking varmiter stock. Bold trigger and Beuller safety. The scope is a 4-20AO Simmins 44Mag. I have not weighed the gun but it is not light. No pics, camera is not working right now. This group was shot at 300yds. I did not wait between any of the shots, one right after the other. The load is 44gr Varget and a 200gr HPBT Match Sierra. OAL is 3.05" the throat is very short. H4350 at 51gr shoots almost as good, but it is a very compressed load. Plus the Varget uses less powder at almost the same vel. 2556fps for H4350 and 2520fps for theVarget load. Hear is the group. It is only 4 shots as the first was shot at a steel plate next to the target to confirm which mil dot to use as a aim point. And to foul the barrel.

If you are going to do it, have it done now. If you wait and have it done after you have the barrel set, and it does not shoot like you want, it is going to cost more. The barrel will more than likely have to be set back,and headspaced again, to take up the amount of material this is to be removed to true up the surfaces that are mentioned. That is not that bad of a price to have a smith do these opperations. Have it done, it will make a differance on how the gun will shoot.

If you can find someone to do a true blueprinting of an action for $130, do it. If you are talking about trueing the face of the rec., lapping the lugs, and squaring the face of the bolt, that is worth the $130. To have a true blue printed action, It is gong to cost at least $500 and up. There is a lot more that needs to be done to the action than what was mentioned to blue print it.

The 54R round opperates at 46K PSI. It is a low pressure round. I can't remember the PSI for the 308. I thought it was 58K or 62K PSI. That is a big jump on the pressure. That was why when my bud decided to do his, he went with the Saiga 308 as it was all ready proven.

The M75 8mm uses a larger and longer trunnion to encase the barrel of the 8mm round. The 39mm barrel is not going to have enough meat around the barrel to safely handle the 308. The barrel stepps off too fast to a smaller diameter for the 308. When you run a reamer into the 39 chamber, you are probaly going to run right into the pin to lock the barrel. Hence the larger trunnion, and barrel diameter. Does the Yugo use the longer RPK rec.? You are going to need this as the 308 round is too long to work out of a normal AK rec. Also you will have to know what size of gas port to drill, and where to drill it. It takes some tricky math to get it drilled in the grove and not on the land.

Are you planning on using the 7.62x39 barrel to do this? And are you going to use this in an AK? If you are, the 308 AK's have a 3rd locking lug on the bolt and they also use the RPK trunnion because of the greater mass of the trunnion. A friend of mine already did this, but he started with a 308 Saiga. The swapped out the barrel with a straight fully chambered blank from Shaw. He then turned it down to the contour of a original RPK barrel and faced the chamber end to HS it. Here is a pic of it. It is on the green tarp in the middle.it is not a very good pic.

Well I sent it off today. Before I took the action out of the stock, I took off the rings and bases. It must have been an optical ilussion when they were on. The bore is in line with the boltway. The fumes from all of the beans that the old lady fed me must have made my eyes crossed from what I seen before. The rear base is the one that seems messed up. If you loosen them up, then screw it down while watching, you can see it tilt and slide to the right side. It is deffenently tilted and off to the right side. I will see what they say. And thanks for all of the comments guys.

I did a little studying of the rec. last night. The holes for the scope are actually straight. But, when the rec. was originally drilled for the barrel, it was drilled at an angle. Not straight to the center of the boltway. The fix with the Millet rings brought the scope in so I could adjust it out. The gun shoot really good. When they lapped the lugs and sqaured the bolt, it must be square with the bore. I have no signs that the case is at an angle in the bore. So i guess I will leave it as is. Like Rosco said, I am the only one who will know. That and everyone on this board. Thanks guys.