Doble Troble

Geeze, I was expecting that one of these smart alecs would have piped up on this by now. I've got a threaded Swede (that I got from FC a few years back). If no one answers soon I might have to get the thread pitch guages out (although with my eyes these guages are only semi-reliable for me).

I hate to suggest EvilBay, but I've found some good deals on ebony, maple and spruce (tone wood for a guitar) there.

The spindle bore on the 9 x 20's is the same as the 7 x X series (a hair under 0.8", but you can, and I did, bore it out to 0.83" or so - you can probably go further, but I chickened-out). The 11 x 26 is very attractive because of the 1" bore and you can muscle it around without too much drama. Everyone learns differently, but I submit that the only way to really become proficient with a lathe is to use one, and this requires the depth of knowledge of why things are done a certain way that can only be truly appreciated by trying a different approach, and observing the unwanted result . Just don't get an appendage tangled in the works during the learning process and you'll be ahead of the game.

The hook is set deep! There will never be enough time or money. The upside is that if you take your time, and continue your financial creativity (aka scrounging), you're going to end up with a nice rifle that works better than most and is truely yours!

And somehow telling it now leads to "lack of decorum". Who was it wo said that if you tell a lie big enough, and repeat it enough, that people will begin to believe it? If you can slide a whopper by under the veil of "decorum" and with the approval of the press who used to monitor the truthfulness of presidential assertions, then you can state it as fact later. But all of this is very rude of me to point-out, and I should probably apologize. It looks like the currently debated "plan" excludes aliens from a type of direct assistance with buying health insurance, but clearly they will be ENCOURAGED to participate in the general system and pay the same as US CITIZENS. Who knows what the final bill will specify (probably most of those voting for it won't understand it). I wish our best health care in the world didn't have problems. Even if it didn't, I suspect that the sociodemolibs would still want to destroy it by forcing it under government control. I can't think of anything that government has done in-terms of social programs that has solved more problems that it created. Why would anyone with two brain cells to rub together even begin to hope that government control of health care will result in a better, cheaper, less problematic system. But I also don't understand why Disneyland is popular.

Have fun, Kenny. Try to post some pictures so us less fortunate can dream about real boondocks.

Hi digger! I've used a minilathe effectively for years. There are some things that you just can't do with one, but it still amazes me what you can figure-out how to do on one. Military profile barrels fit nicely through the headstock (although you'll need to make a spider that requires advanced inside diameter threading). I didn't have any experience before I bought mine back in 2002 at a Homier travelling show (it's the 7x12 model). It took a long time before I could face and turn a rod down to an accurate diameter. Actually it took a long time before I could get a rod mounted in a 4-jaw chuck without runout. So I've considered having my minilate as an important education. I've been on the lookout for a larger lathe for a couple of years now. I've almost bought a 12 x 36 from Harbor Freight a few times, but each time not having a clear plan to get it into my basement shop has kept me from pulling the trigger. This is another good thing about the minilathe - you can unbolt it, pick it up and move it somewhere else. Once you have a lathe you figure-out that it's hard to use effectively without a metal-cutting band saw. Fortunately Harbor Freight sells a cheap one (that used to go on sale for <$200) that works well enough. You'll also need a drill press with a set of bits (get a large kit - trust me). And then you need calipers, dial indicator and base (I like the magnetic kind with a switch), files, sandpaper, tool bitsand stock to work with (Online Metals has starter packs- you can get standard diameter steel rods at places like Lowes and Home Depot) I kind-of purchased all these things as it became clear that I really needed them. It was a lot of stuff. I didn't buy too many guns during this period (it lasted about a year). After this year or so I actually got to the point where I could make useful tools and parts and started barrel work. An important thing about he minilathe that took me a long time to learn is that you can't take deep cuts all at once - like apparently you can get away with on larger lathes. 10 or 20 thousandths at a time is about all you can do without running into trouble. Although it would be nice to see someone use a lathe before you get your hands on one, they're kind-of like PCs - everyone figures-out "their" way of using them effectivley.

You can build what you want on that action. Frickin' lawyer disclaimer: but keep in mind that pressures are relative and it may be safe to shoot a 200 gr bullet at 2800 fps in one K98, and have problems with (blow-up) another with the same load - due to chamber/headspace/barrel differences. Or from another (non-gun related) relative perspective, it may be safe to push a 200 gr bullet 2800 fps out of a Mauser with IMR4350, and blow it up trying to reach the same velocity with Unique. Hopefully, all of this is already obvious to everyone.

Very nice group, especially with milsurp ammo. I've shot three different kinds of surplus 8 mm and none of them were accurate. Some of the old Turk stuff I have is down-right inaccurate. It's fun (for me) to have some on hand for plinking. Some of the guys at the range like to plink cans at 100 yds - mostly with 22s. Its super-fun to plink cans with an 8 x 57. Actually it's more like "plonking" cans. Usually the Mauser ends-up getting passed around, but no-one usually winds-up taking too many shots with the Turk surplus - it's hot! Back when bullets were reasonably priced ($10/100) I used to shoot a lot of the 185 gr Remington CoreLoks over 4895 (45 gr if memory serves). I would measure max OAL for the rifle by holding a bullet in the throat with a pencil, running a dowel down from the front end until it made contact, and marking with a Sharpie. Then I'd remove the bullet, run the same dowel down on a closed bolt, and mark at the muzzle again. The difference between the two marks is max OAL for that bullet in that Mauser. I'd seat a few thousands shorter. This was always a fairly accurate load for me, although it could be dialed-in for each gun.

That kind of blow can kill as well as a bullet. Life can be very hard.

I've never had to have one notarized, but I've always mailed signed (in blue) originals. I wouldn't be surprised if Liberal-induced CYA paranoia hasn't evolved to the extent that notarization is now being requested. How far can our nation go not trusting the citizenry? How long can we go not expecting each other to act responsibly? It's too bad that we have to waste time being worried about these kinds of documents. This is a perfect example of infringement of our constitutional rights.

Wow! Nice pictures. There's so many pieces that I don't recognize. I hope I get a chance to see it in person. If I don't I almost feel like I've been there with your excellent documentation. THANKS!

This story was in our local paper - this happened in my neck of the woods. I guess she really let him have it - 50 stitches - probably a record for a 70 year-old.

Nice! How did you blue the barrel? Was scope mounting a challenge?

Jason, Your Wikipedia link goes to a high resolution image of your rifle. I suspect this was intentional subterfuge, because now I really want to build one, regardless of it's history. Now I NEED a cool-looking, semi-auto, 7.62 x 51 NATO-shooting, milsurp. I hope this doesn't turn-out to be too expensive, dammit. PS Monte's on to something...after your next BBQ try dousing the grill with hot water and take a wire wheel to it - you might get a nice blue on those horse shoes.

I'd take Clemson's advice and test with a cartridge. You could do this with a live round at the range, or could full length resize some brass and test safely at home. If using your own dies to resize fired brass you can close the bolt without much effort - you've probably got a minimum headspace chamber for your reloading set-up. This isn't a bad problem to have. If the brass resists being closed on, you've got a weird chamber that needs fixing. The good news is that it probably only needs a turn or two with a reamer - the co-op has the reamer. If you get to this point, making a chamber cast would be highly advisable - the bore is ~ 0.323", right?

Mash to fit rather than cut - leaves some residual tension (at least for a while). Or install a spring.

TOW has parts similar: Link to Track Penn patchbox parts You could dress it up similar to the original. Maybe it's time to put a new longrifle together?

Century used to have them at a good price - but that could have been years ago.

Wow! I never thought I'd think a sporterized MN looks good! You guys are doing nice work.

Definitely a MN. Very creative! I wonder how that muzzle brake works?

Sparky, my flintlock, insists on real black powder. Pyrodex is great for reduced fouling, but a flaming pan of BP just won't ignite it through that little hole in the barrel. So I deal with the fouling. Here's my prescription: A good brushing followed by two wet patches after each shot. Extra Crisco/beeswax on even pre-lubed patches. I clean with hot soapy water after shooting and lube with 50:50 Crisco/beeswax. A toothpick plugs the touch hole. If you shoot it enough to justify having it, it's going to accumulate rust, there's just no way around it. There are two kinds of original muzzle loaders still around: those that are really corroded, and those that were rarely shot. The most important thing: Keep petroleum oils as far away as possible. I don't understand the chemistry involved, but I do understand the consequences of mixing petroleum-based oil and black powder fouling: Tight-bonding, black, corrosive, concrete. Organic oils are essential: shortening, vegetable oil, unsalted lard, bear grease, anything but petro.

And/or a bigger wrench. Did I tell you guys about the time I took a barrel off a Winchester 94 with the action closed? We should probably start another thread about blunders to avoid. Hey walnut - do you have a shot-out barrel that you can use as a mandrel?

It's only sometimes for you? What's your secret? My last almost fatal brain fart was single feeding a heavily-modified (by ham-fisted me) 1911 that wasn't feeding from the magazine. Yes, I dropped one in the chamber, just happened to point it down range, and yes, dropped the slide. KApow! Fortunately for me it somehow went into battery before it touched off. The firing pin had wedged under a loose firing pin stop and was sticking out, which explains why it wouldn't feed from the magazine - Browning was smart, unlike me. I'm pushing 50 and still learning that if it isn't working right STOP and frickin' figure it out. There's a reason.