milsurpcollector

Does anyone have or know where I can get a dimensioned drawing of a remington 700 barrel shank. Im talking about a short action non magnum

I bought one of the argie police surplus guns several years ago, I know that the grips are interchangeble with the BHP, dont know about the rest of the parts. I was very happy with the gun, I regret selling it. This gun at J&G has a rib down the top of the slide that is not found on BHP's I would not hesitate to buy anouther FM pistol FWIW

Reese surplus, click on guns and scroll down

I have decided to build an Israeli K98 sniper rifle. Here is the before picture. Since this gun is basically a wreck I dont feel guilty about ruining any historical value. The original sniper was a belgian k98 made for Israel in 8mm Almost all of these were converted to .308 Israel sent some to Switzerland where they mounted a a Wild 4x scope using a spring loaded detachable scope mount. The scope base and mounts are available and are original so I wont even be making a reproduction. It will be all original. I have all the parts i need except for the scope system and barrel. The scope is the rare part, and its $500. That may see like alot but originals built by wild go for $2000

I cant wait until my sons and daughter are onld enough to hunt. That must have been an awsome bonding experience

Yes, The standard MK III extractor spring will work in the 2A but be careful because they are really brittle.

i feel compelled to answer again, i would see if there is an adult education program at a local highschool or tech school that you can go to at night to learn how to use a lathe, then i would go out and buy one. There is a yahoo group dedicated to the 7-12, 9-20 and 12-36" lathes. All require a little tweaking to get it to work properly. The 12-36 lathe need the least amount of work. The big areas of wear on a lathe are the ways and the spindle. The ways are shiney bars that the saddle rides on. the way should not have gouges or wear marks. Watch for wear near the spindle a great deal of work is done there so that area wears first. The next wear area is the spindle which the chuck attaches to. To check this, you mount a dial indicator on something solid and the put the plunger on a smooth area of the spindle. either inside or out. There should be no runout or less than .001. If you can, place a round bar in the spindle and see if you can get the dial indicator to move while gently lifting up or down on the spindle. There should be no movement. Turn the lathe on and listen with just the spindle running there should be no grinding noise or rumbling. Everthing else on the lathe is secondary to the above 2 items. i would recommend the class first. Usually they are very hands on and you learn alot of machining skills that can be applied to gunsmithing.

A mini lathe is not going to cut it. You wont be able to do much gunsmithing on a 7x12" lathe. You need at least a 1" spindle bore and for an unturned barrel blank you need a 1.25" bore. If you're in Ohio, that is prime old lathe country. I bet you could find a lathe for a reasonable price, try craigslist

I can tell you by looking at it that it doesnt have change gears, its certainly not the lathe I would pick to do gunsmithing. I wanted old iron too and i bought a sheldon lathe. No parts available and worn parts everywhere is what u get with an old lathe. Many also have a small spindle bore making chambering through the headstock difficult or impossible. Some people get lucky and find a barely used old lathe for cheap. The minimum I would look for is a south bend Heavy 10 Heres a website with alot of info on old lathes http://www.lathes.co.uk/index.html I have a grizzly now no complaints.

Sonic, Thanks for the added info. there is a company called http://www.specialinterestarms.com/index.php That sells parts to do all kind of conversions on the enfields. They also sell a single stack AK mag adapter. Im sure its expensive. I ordered the 44 mag barrel from Numrich, I still dont have a doner action for the project.

Not only did you do a really nice job on the rifle, I think its a really neat concept. I plan on copying you design for my next project. Do you have a picture of the mag well to show how you installed the tubing to configure the magwell. Is that a single stack AK mag or a double stack 10 round model? Where did you get the barrel ? I see some on Numrich's site. Thanks

Unless you are a dave tubb class shooter, you will probably not be able to shoot any barrel too its full potential. So many things impact rifle accuracy such as: bedding caliber selection powder and bullet selection optics mounting case prep Barrel installation Barrel selection is pretty far down the list. I have a douglas, shilen and adams & bennet in different guns. I dont notice alot of difference between them.

Most rifles, either P-17 or P-14 were sporterized by grinding the ears off, so the aftermarket sight were designed with this in mind. Parker Hale made a sight for the enfield #4 that went in place of the old micrometer sight that was ajustible for windage as well as elevation. Not sure of the number but they are still for sale. i saw one recently on Sarco inc. website. The reason i mention it at all is because you might be able to modify it to fit your rifle.

I got the barrel off about 5 minutes ago. I built another barrel vice, since the old one was already sprung from power torqueing the bolts on it. With the two barrel vices the barrel broke loose with an audible pop. i had been dripping kroil every day into the threads which are visble through the front hole for the scope base. The threads were soaked with kroil so it does penetrate. Many thanks to everyone who replied to my thread, the advice was much appreciated. There is no other website that has as much riflesmithing knowledge as this one. Its an awsome asset to be able to ask a question and have a knowledgable answer that someone has actually used before. Anyone know how to properly cut a cone breach on a lathe?

Thanks I have some kroil that I let soak in the threads overnight, i will try some kroil over a week or 2. Ive got time because i have to sell some stuff to get the $ to buy a barrel. Its not an original sniper, Its a pre 64 action which is what was used. Its not a collectible, someone already D&T'd the siderail for a scope mount and shortened the stock for a recoil pad. I will post some pics of the work in progress

Thanks ken, I am using rosin, I have also sanded the barrel with some 220 grit to give the clamping surface more bite. As a last resort I will weld a plate to the barrel. I dont want to because the barrel is still in good shape. i have also tried heating the barrel with a propane torch

Im building a Korea-Vietnam era sniper rifle. A Win M70 30.06 with a heavy barrel and a Unertl 10X external adjustment scope. Im having a hell of a time getting the original barrel off the receiver. I use 2 2" square blocks of bar stock which is drilled for the barrel and then an aluminum bushing for whatever barrel im removing. I have a brownells receiver wrench. The barrel keeps twisting. I cannot get the barrel vise to clamp down enough. I have actually bent the 2" bar stock cranking the bolts down on the barrel. Any hints,tips suggestions would be appreciated.

If you want to get more of the cosmoline out, use a paint stripper lit zip strip. It wont hurt the wood. There will still be plenty in the stock, it seems to ooze out for years. Black bears are not as big as Grizzleys so I think 8mm mauser is plenty. I shot a deer with a 150 gr corelokt and it did not expand at all. With what you are spending on food and lodging and the price of the hunt, dont cheap out now with your choice of bullet. Go buy some nosler or sierra slugs. Get an idea of where they hit compared to the corelokt and then save the rest for hunting. The 98k was rear sight was calibrated for a 198 gr bullet.

Beautiful work. Most M48 I have handled have really stiff bolts. Did you do anything to smooth out the action to get a better bolt lift?

Having parked several mauser actions, I have not noticed any change. With the "Shooters Solutions" park that I use, the parts are only in the bath for a max of 2 minutes. I have not noticed any roughness of the bolt afterwards. The parkerizing holds lubricant which helps keep the friction down

New 03A3 bolts are available from Southern Ohio Guns for about $12.00 each

Heres my rifle I put together, I have snince used Brownells bake on laquer in black for the whole rifle. Orginally this was a sporterized 03A3 I used 1" rings and a Lyman All american scope.

Tell your friend to sell it outright on gunbroker and use the money to buy a sporterized 03a3 The redfield base on the 03a3 is the same (almost) as the military used on the 03A4 sniper. The rings 1" and the correct 7/8" show up all the time on ebay. The 03A4 sniper used a crappy weaver 330C telescope which was 2x magnification. If your friends has an 1903, sniper conversions of those rifles are even more expensive, They used a Unertl 10X or a Lyman Target spot with special rings that had the elevation and windage in the rings. The scope was not adjustable. The 1903 snipers were used by the USMC. The army stuck with the 1903A4 If your Friend just wants to slap any old scope on his rifle then get an 03A3 that has been drilled and tapped. He can sell his rifle and use the money to fund the sniper project. Mint 1903's sell between $600 and $1000 regularly

If the ways are in good shape and the bearings in the spindle are good, then you have got yourself a good beginner lathe. To check the bearings mount a magnetic base dial indicator on something solid below the spindle with the pointer resting on the spindle. Put a metal bar in the spindle and gently pull up There should be no movement on the spindle at all. To check the ways center a piece of bar stock and take a cut or several cuts from one end of the bar or the other. Problems with the ways will show up and bumps or distortions in the test bar. If there is a taper from the head stock to the tailstock the you need to adjust the tailstock. For example if the test bar is 0.90 at the headstock and 0.80 at the tailstock, you need to move the tail 0.05 away from the cutter. When you buy a lathe, you need all sorts of measuring tools and gauges to take advantage of it such as: Dial micrometer dial caliper dial indicator magnetic base for dial indicator depth micrometer (for chambering) High speed steel(HSS) for tool bits Drill chuck Drill bits (buy american it matters) Center drilling bits Make sure you level the lathe with a machinist level and mount it to the floor. Dont mount it on rubber pads, to maintain their precision lathes need to mounted directly to the floor. Some import chinese stuff is okay, someof it is junk Most japanese stuff is as good or better than american You can find used american tools on ebay If you know all this already sorry for wasting your time Any more ?'s feel free to ask

Scott, If you are going to do much lathe work, I would pick up a few books on it. also Kuhnhausen's mauser gunsmithing book. Do a seach on amazon to see whats out there. I dont have a list because im at work otherwise i would list a few that helped me The books will give you an idea of what tools you need. Ebay is a great place to find quality tools for less than new. Buy american or japanese tools if at all possible.