milsurpcollector

There is a company called xs sight systems that makes a sleeve to fit over a standard military mauser barrel to mount a scout scope on, you epoxy it to the barrel. and use a pistol scope. I used it, but as the barrel heated the point of impact changed. I would not reccomend it. As to your actual question, The are a few tactical rifles that use detachable mags. Robar, HS precision, Macmillian???? If you are good with fabrication, cut off the mag box from a 98 trigger guard and weld up another from 1/4 ( or smaller) square bar stock. That way you can match the dimensions of the M1A mag. Another way would be to slit the front of the trigger guard and bend until you can fit a M1A mag in there. You would still have to work on the bottom of the receiver and figure out a locking system. How about using a No.4 Enfield, you could convert it to .308 just by a barrel change and modifying the extractor. It would see much less work http://www3.sympatico.ca/shooters/JC1.htm

No advice, but that is some nice work Don. Did you make that fixture to bolt to the faceplate on the lathe? How do you get it dialed in so the floorplate release is centered?

It depends, If you have a reworked G98 or other receiver, when you remove the ring the receiver will be shorter than a normal 98 receiver. The turks had many typed of model 98's they reworked or that were purpose built for them. All appear to modified for the handguard to slip into the receiver. I have a former G98 that was turked. It now only has 5 threads in the receiver. All standard length model 98 stocks will work one way or another

Thanks for the replies guys, I polished the chamber out with some 320 grit sandpaper followed by 400 followed by scotchbrite. I have the breach end at .471 which is still undersize by .004. I broke my cheap chinese gauge so I can no longer measure the shoulder. I dont think the chamber is off plumb from the bolt face because new ammo work fine. I did check the safety lug its not touching anything. I have decided to do the following: Buy a new set of dies ( the Lee sizer die has an off center mandrel) Get some new brass to be used only in this gun ( my other brass has all been fired in large military chambers) New brass chambers and extracts easily. Thanks for everyone's comments, posting my thoughts here kept me from throwing my $130 douglas barrel into woods when I got frustrated.

I guess I will try the sandpaper, after calling brownells and Dave Mason. I have used other reamers and have not had this kind of problem. I really think the reamer is under sized, or maybe I am missing something? As far as the receiver being warped, I dont think thats the problem. I have tried the barrel in 3 different receivers. I always checked the headspace and corrected when nessisary.

In my quest to fix or find out why its so hard to open the bolt on my rifle I have discovered some interesting stuff. I thought the cam at the root of the bolt was worn so I welded a liitle to it and reshaped the camming area. The result----No change the bolt is still hard to open with a spent round. I should mention that it is also hard to close with the spent round or a resized round. I tried some yugo surplus which chambered easily, so I decided to measure my chamber which is 8mm mauser At the breech my barrel measures .4673 The correct spec is .4757 At the shoulder my barrel measures .430 The correct spec is .4361 to .4381 The specs are from Kuhnhausen's book. It appears I have an under size chamber. I used a finish reamer for the whole chamber, no rougher. The reamer was purchased new from brownells made by Dave mason So what do I do now? as i said the gun headspaces perfectly Is it possible to get an undersize reamer?

The finish is worn off in that area but I dont know if its galling. I tried another bolt and it does the same thing only to a lesser extent. I also checked my brass, thinking it might be pinching due to brass growth. not the case. The reamer I used is new purchased from brownells and on its first chambering job. Im not sure if I have this problem with surplus ammo. I cant remember.

I have 1940 98k receiver with an 8mm mauser barrel. Bolt is matching but bent further down. I have trouble lifting the bolt more than 3/4 of the way after shooting. Headspace is perfect with the stripped bolt. I disassembled the rifle and found no set back in lug area. I used some kasenit heat treating compound on bolt handle camming area results are the same bolt is still hard to lift more than 3/4. I stripped bolt and tried one of the fired cases and the rifle does the same thing. The chamber is polished with scotchbrite. what is going on????

One of the guys who wrote a product review on the midwayusa site said that he cut on the knob with a hacksaw at first then used a file until he had it round and then threaded it. Im a little nervous about cutting on a perfectly good remington bolt though.

I would like to install a tactical knob like the one in the picture. My problem is that the handle where the knob is rectangular not round. I know the one in the picture is a complete replacement handle. as anyone had any experience with this type of modification? What is the procedure? Can I add this to my current stock rem handle or do I have to do a complete replacement? and how is the rem handle attached? it does not look welded

Scott, What state are you located in. Some states have more machinery available that others. If you want to chamber a barrel blank in the lathe you need a spindle bore at least 1.2 inches I know its discoraging. I save for 2 years before getting the Grizzley 12x36. I bought a Sheldon lathe made in the 1950's for $400 cleaned it up and sold it for $700. I sold it because it was worn out which I didnt know when I got it. I reccomend a new Grizzly 12-36 or similar or a quality used machine with at least a 1" spindle bore. Here is a used machinery dealer that has some good stuff if you live nearby Not a huge operation and you can run the stuff before you buy it http://www.lostcreekmachine.com/

You would be better off using a tap than trying to thead a receiver on a lathe. Making a fixture for a mauser with that square lug on the bottom would be challenging, not to mention that many turk receivers do not have the threads centered. There would be alot of variables, thinking about all of them would make my head hurt. It is much easier to rethread a barrel than to rethread a receiver. Steve Acker made a jig to rethread a rem 700 but I think the quality control at remington is better than it was at the Turkish state arms factory.

Thanks to all who replied. I found my own way to do this. I bought a Phase II X-Y table for my drill press. Then I mounted the receiver to the receiver holding fixture that I secured to the table using holdown clamps. This is a very rigid setup. I used a center drill #1 that I eyeballed to the center of the mount hole. The receiver DOT 1943 was soft enough that the center drill worked easily in all but the hole closest to the receiver I the drilled and tapped using a trutapper I bought from brownells. The results are almost perfect. The X-Y table was $60 on sale and its a typical cheap chinese product, but it is precise and rigid where it counts

The steve acker book has many good tips and is worth buying. The Kunhausen shop manual for the Mauser is excellent although some more knowledgable folks here disagree with some of what he says.

Im building a 98k Long side rail sniper rifle and I need to drill 3 holes in the side of the reciever. My question is, How do you accurately locate these holes. A punch is too big and the mount tends to shift when I hit the punch. Drilling the holes is no problem but accurately locating them is another matter Thanks in advance

I can rethread your barrel, and if you can measure the length of the receiver shank I will cut it to fit. You pay for shipping both ways, all you will need to do is rent a reamer. Im in St. Louis so let me know

Im sort of confused, If you put the compound at 29.5 deg but the tool holder is still 90 deg to the work what have you acoumplished. I have a lathe and have cut threads and have had problems with the tools cutting both sides of the V at the same time. Whats the trick?

Z, Thats exactly what I mean and no offense taken I just chambered my first barrel blank without one. Got the 4 jaw dialed in at .001 runout indicating off a plug gage stuck in the barrel. I also used a spider on the back end of the headstock. I used a dead center to push the reamer. it seemed to come out pretty tight, but the proof will be in the shooting. Is there a way to make sure that the tail stock and the headstock are aligned vertically. I made a test bar and got the side to side alignment close to perfect

Does anyone here use one? Did you make your own or buy one. I am planning on making my own (or at least trying to) The 2 that I have looked at are the Dave Mason and another from a guy on ebay called w.parks. He is an amateur gunsmith in Pennsylvania

I have a brownells crown cutter, and a lathe. I was wondering how the pros lap their muzzles I am still using the brass bolt with lapping compound

They way we lap the muzzle of a barrel after crowning seems very imprecise to me. After using precision tools to cut the muzzle a perfect 90deg to the barrel we take a brass screw or other round object and lap with lapping compound. Is this really the best and only way to do this job? Does anyone know why this works so well? Even brownells sells a lapping tool that looks like the head of a brass screw

While nothing is certain, the 98/29 persian mausers where produced at a time (1930"s) when quality control was very good. Czech receivers are rountinely used for magnum sporter projects If the rifle is in original condition and has a matching serial numbered bolt I would say headspace would be good. Buy some headspace gauges and strip the bolt if it headspaces okay then you probably dont have any setback either

Before i knew you could buy a long side rail mount reproduction I decided to build this rifle because I saw one like it in the shotgun news and I have always wanted a german sniper rifle. The rings and bases are IOR Valdada EAW style. The scope is an old weaver K4 which is not the correct scope for a german sniper but it was much cheaper and looks right. The original bolt was long gone so I reprofiled a turk bolt and bent it. The stock is a new surplus israeli 98k stock in beach

I second that, You do good work and should be pround of it. I dont sporterize but your skill and knowledge helps me with my creations.

Where do you live? i have a lathe and i can help